Atomizer for testing flavor - problem with mine and what to choose

[nev99]

Hi to everyone,

So after a few weeks of lurking, reading, and research I'm all set up for some DIY on the liquids. Or so i thought. And my thanks to to all who shared their knowledge and experiences it made it much easier to start.

So mixed up a few small 3ml batches, on the recommended % for the flavor, just for fun. Came out ok as expected. But i want (need) to play with the % and test the rest of the flavors. And here is where I hit a bit of a snag.

I use an ego 3.7V 900mAh battery and normally a clearomizer with it.


But you can't test small amounts of flavor with that so i had gotten a 510 atomizer for that. The recommendation on a few posts i read was for a LR for this battery. To be precise i got a 510 LR Bridgeless atomizer 1.5ohm as on the image.


It notes that new atomizers contain a small amount of primer liquid to prevent coil corrosion during storage. but that it takes about about 10-15 draws of your e-cigarette before the primer liquid is burnt off. So i dripped some blank liquid and tried vaping to get it 'cleaned up'. And it was, well, horrible. By blank liquid i mean 70/30 2mg no flavor.

It had this really bad, the best i can describe, acrid metallic/corrosive taste. when it did not go away after 20+ draws i decided to clean it (as per the 6million video tutorials on the subject). Then i tested it again with the blank liquid and with my standard vaping liquid, when the taste was still there, just to be sure it was not the mix used. I vape the blank sometimes in the clearomiser and have no issues but it was just to be totally sure. On the third go around of the test /clean routine the atti finally stopped smoking when dry burned. But the metallic taste and burn is still there.

Since tons of people vape these i don't think it is a model problem, maybe individual manufacturer?

Is it individual atti issue and just get another one and try? and if that is the case can someone recommend from where so i 'know' it will work ie they look the same but are made by different companies so depending on retailer what you get.

Is it just me? and if it's me what did i do?

or can someone recommend a better atomizer for testing?


Thanks for the help

 

[fabricator4]

1.5 ohm at 3.7 V gives a current of 3.7/1.5=2.46 amps. 3.7volts x 2.46 amps = 9.1 watts. That's a lot of power for some liquids = burning coil and liquid = nasty taste.

Really, I'm finding a lot of liquids are happy at about 7 watts and 8 watts gives a weaker, poorer taste. For carefree dripping I'll set the Vamo to between 5 watts and 7 watts. Things just taste much better. Since you've got a fixed voltage battery, you'll have to make sure that the resistance is suitable for the voltage.

You might need to recoil that atty, so to work it backwards using 6 watts as the baseline: 6watts/3.7V = 1.62 amps. 3.7V / 1.62 amps = 2.28 ohms. That's probably around 5 (or 6) wraps of 32g kanthal.

Others might have different suggestions for you, but this would be my approach. There's a darn good reason why the standard coil resistance for the ego 3.7v batteries is 2.2 or 2.4 ohms. ;-)

 

[Myrany]

SmartVapes 306 1.8ohm E cig Dripping Atomizer

Is the atty that was recommended to me for juice testing. I haven't received mine yet but that is what was recommended.

 

[nev99]

Others might have different suggestions for you, but this would be my approach. There's a darn good reason why the standard coil resistance for the ego 3.7v batteries is 2.2 or 2.4 ohms. ;-)

Basically what you are saying is don't go with an LR. Not sure i'm at the stage of re-wrapping anything

Myrany

on what battery? just asking since it's a 1.8

 

[mainevaper]

I use this one...

Dream Stainless Steel Rebuildable Atomizer

It takes a bit to master, but quite simple. I use 2mm silica and 32g kanthal to make my coils.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

It notes that new atomizers contain a small amount of primer liquid to prevent coil corrosion during storage. but that it takes about about 10-15 draws of your e-cigarette before the primer liquid is burnt off. So i dripped some blank liquid and tried vaping to get it 'cleaned up'. And it was, well, horrible. By blank liquid i mean 70/30 2mg no flavor.

When they suggest the machine oil be burned off you're only supposed to activate the atty and NOT inhale. Try soaking the atty in polident or PGA/ alcohol to remove anything. As for the ohms it's a little too low. 1.5 ohms @ 3.7 volts equals 9.126 watts- most enjoy a vape from 7.5- 9 watts. I'd suggest try 2.0- 2.2 ohms.

 

[NGAHaze]

I probably would have recommended blowing out the primer fluid first and then re-priming with Nic Juice ( no flavor ) or even just straight PG rather than burning the primer fluid off. To me it seems that trying to just burn it off takes a lot longer to get that nasty taste out of there. I would tend to agree with fabricator4 about the atty; I personally would have gotten a SR in addition to the low LR because, as mentioned, some juices do tend to burn easier than others. You might try using a little more VG if your juices continue to taste burnt with that LR atty.

Vape On!

 

[nev99]

I use this one...

Dream Stainless Steel Rebuildable Atomizer

It takes a bit to master, but quite simple. I use 2mm silica and 32g kanthal to make my coils.

by master are you referring to the use? or to the installation/rebuilding the coil/wick? when i was looking at something like that as an option the other a) seemed simpler... ie use it till its used up then get another... and b) was told that for something like the rebuildable atomizer i needed a multimeter that could measure the ohms of the atomizer once rebuilt

When they suggest the machine oil be burned off you're only supposed to activate the atty and NOT inhale...

activate the atty empty or with fluid?

.....
You might try using a little more VG if your juices continue to taste burnt with that LR atty.

I'm taking this to indicate that PG burns easier then VG...


so the conclusion would be definitely a SR atty since i'm testing the flavor with PG only

Now i just have to find one ...

the one Myrany suggests the SmartVapes 306 is 1.8ohm which i guess is too low specially for for PG only...
the Dream Stainless Steel Rebuildable is also 1.8-2.0ohm so i guess low ...

 

[darkhood]

SmartVapes 306 1.8ohm E cig Dripping Atomizer

Is the atty that was recommended to me for juice testing. I haven't received mine yet but that is what was recommended.

probably by me lemme know how that works out for ya.

 

[fabricator4]

Basically what you are saying is don't go with an LR. Not sure i'm at the stage of re-wrapping anything

Myrany

Indaeed, I'd recommend a 2.4 or 2.2 ohm atomiser on that battery. You are not like to have any problems at all at 2.4 ohms.

I was thinking you had got a rebuildable atty, but realised later that it was a standard 510 (not meant to be rebuilt)

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

activate the atty empty or with fluid?

Drip 2-3 drops in the atty and activate WITHOUT inhaling. Do this 3 times and the oil should be gone/ burned off.

 

[eHuman]

IGO-L with a short straight SS mesh wick.
Drip 3 drops,
sample flavor,
run under hot tap water to rinse old flavor,
blot dry,
dry burn,
grab new flavor = 3 minutes.

 

[Unhooked]

If you hold a drip atomizer upside down does the juice all spill out?

 

[NGAHaze]

Yes, if you haven't used it up (vaped it) it would leak out ...

 

[piggy]

I find that new atty's need break in before normal use. Out of the bag I wipe the outside and proceed to blow out the primer by placing lips on top of the atty while holding a tissue underneath (put mouth on it and seal with lips like a straw). Like blowing a medium balloon i give 5 or so strong long breaths which clears almost all of the nasty primer. Then before first use i add 3 drops of ejuice and wait about 2-3 minutes alowing juice to make its way through. Then i add another 3 drops and vape, but stop early and take shorter drags since atty still isn't broken in yet. For about the next 3 sessions i add 4 drops and vape with shorter drags keeping careful not to dry out. After about 4 sessions or so the atty is pretty much moistened and broken in and ready for the standard 3 drops and normal drags. This process will cause atty to leak a bit from bottom but well worth it.
I might add, that a 1.5 resistance on a 3.7v will cause the juice to burn up quicker and mute the taste. I would go with a 2.0 resistance.

 

[NGAHaze]

Good description Piggy! That's basically what I was saying earlier in the thread but I didn't elaborate nearly as well as you did.

 

[nev99]

View attachment 200764View attachment 200765
IGO-L with a short straight SS mesh wick.
Drip 3 drops,
sample flavor,
run under hot tap water to rinse old flavor,
blot dry,
dry burn,
grab new flavor = 3 minutes.

Sounds blissfully simple and like something that would work really really well long run. ....

except for one tiny little small problem ... some assembly required... not all parts and instructions included...
and referring to this not sure how easy

I now use an all SS mesh wick on my IGO-L.
I won't lie and say it was easy to coax it into that shape, but the second one will go faster.

30g kanthal, 4/5 wrap, 1.3Ω

However being that north of the border getting anything with nic is a bit complex, possible regulations and other such issues are challenging potential availability in the US as well .. DIY is the only really viable option. That said i don't mind putting a few $$ into it .. the equipment/set up for it, not too much $$ but a reasonable amount. So a Provari is out of budget, a Vamo is possible, since i see this being used for testing and not day to day vaping.. Sorry, tested something that size, and at least for now, can't see myself using something that makes me feel like i should remind myself to inhale and not swallow for daily vaping... hmm maybe a girl thing..

So the thought is a regular SR atomizer now...
the LR would/should work on the spinner i'm considering..

The rebuildable wick atomizer would require some supplies, a multimeter (that i have somewhere in the electrical tool box) or ohm measuring mod, some trial and possibly error and a Short Circuit/Atomizer Protection battery which i think i saw the Vamo has. Does it?

My requirements could be summed up in this gradation

1. flavor
2. ease of use and cleanup
3. reasonable $$

eHuman
I really like what you describe as to my 2nd requirement

Drip 3 drops,
sample flavor,
run under hot tap water to rinse old flavor,
blot dry,
dry burn,
grab new flavor = 3 minutes.

What is the advantage of SS mesh over standard (silica right?) wick?

your other post marks the result at 1.3 ohms a Vamo is marked at 1.5> and that it will shut down at <1.3. IF i understand correctly how the build works an extra wrap of the coil increases the resistance and the ohms? So what you are describing could be created at 1.5?

I'm not technically challenged .. if i can rewire part of the house and not have it burn down after i turn on the lights ... or assemble my comp and not have anything blow up i should be able to do this...

Or can i just get the parts, pop them in an envelope and mail them to you for final assembly? please, pretty please

 

[piggy]

I just put a 2.5 atty on my vamo and set it a 4.1 volts to replicate what a 2.0 on 3.7v would feel like. although it was weaker than my normal 4.5v setting, the taste was still pretty good, but warmth and vapor production was considerably less -- not too bad though. At 9.0 watts which is like a 1.5 atty on a 3.7v the taste is whisked away and vapor becomes sour, not to mention that metal drip tips become hot very quickly.
I wouldn't go higher than 2.0 for a 3.7v fixed mod. my sweet spot would be a 1.7 atty on a 3.7v. Me thinks, 2.0ohms is keeping it very safe--too safe for me.

 

[eHuman]

Sounds blissfully simple and like something that would work really really well long run. ....

My requirements could be summed up in this gradation

1. flavor
2. ease of use and cleanup
3. reasonable $$

eHuman
I really like what you describe as to my 2nd requirement

Drip 3 drops,
sample flavor,
run under hot tap water to rinse old flavor,
blot dry,
dry burn,
grab new flavor = 3 minutes.

What is the advantage of SS mesh over standard (silica right?) wick?

Silica is faster and easier to set up, but more difficult to clean out and wears out faster. SS can be dry burned at any time to burn off build up, swapping flavors is silly fast. SS won't hold as much juice as silica. It's a trade off, I use them both and have at least one of my IGOs set up with each at all times.

your other post marks the result at 1.3 ohms a Vamo is marked at 1.5> and that it will shut down at <1.3. IF i understand correctly how the build works an extra wrap of the coil increases the resistance and the ohms? So what you are describing could be created at 1.5?

Yes, add a wrap to it. If you are using a Vamo, shoot for 1.7Ω or so and you'll be fine. You have the advantage of VV/VW so exact final Ω isn't an issue

I'm not technically challenged .. if i can rewire part of the house and not have it burn down after i turn on the lights ... or assemble my comp and not have anything blow up i should be able to do this...

Or can i just get the parts, pop them in an envelope and mail them to you for final assembly? please, pretty please

Flatterer! I would rather teach you to fish than to give you one.

I now use an all SS mesh wick on my IGO-L.
I won't lie and say it was easy to coax it into that shape, but the second one will go faster.
30g kanthal, 4/5 wrap, 1.3Ω

This above quoted comment was after my first go at a SS wick in the IGO-L. I don't curl them any more (that was the reason for the difficulty) Though I since discovered that rolling on the diagonal solves the flexibility issue, I still prefer a short straight piece, it gets the job done in minutes.

 

[cags]

I find that new atty's need break in before normal use. Out of the bag I wipe the outside and proceed to blow out the primer by placing lips on top of the atty while holding a tissue underneath (put mouth on it and seal with lips like a straw). ...........

that's basically what I do too. take out of pkg, blow into a tissue, but I use a drip tip to blow through maybe I'm a weinie lol
then I drip 3-4 drops unflavored or plain pg and blow again until not much comes out.
then I drip a few more drops of unflavored and vape without inhaling
after that it is usually ready to go. I make sure by dripping a few more unflavored drops and vape while inhaling, if not gross I add flavor