Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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Drips Ahoy!

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I love my new mod so far best one Ive ever had. I'm coming from a mvp v2 as I know a lot of people on this thread are and it kicks my rda's and Rta's better than it at 2 less volts. And for only $25-$10 more ill take the clone every time.

So I do feel it a bit reading people posting a bunch at negatives about it but in reality all it's gonna get us is a better mod at a lower price. As we can see cloupor and the venders are fixing stuff and making it better already.

I think of it as a giant product development think tank. Heck maybe some day it will be better quality than the real one.


It's all cool with me. It only hurts my feelings a little bit LOL:)
 

Varelse

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Shame. It was under warranty. You could have got it replaced for free.

Yep. My problem is that I'm that guy that took the family tv apart at age 8 just to see what was inside. My last gf had to hide my tools at her dads house to keep me away from a weak a/c unit. Been a curse all my life.

Elev8 said send it in last weekend when it first locked up on its own but since the issue was intermitent and working fine most the time-i figured it was a loose wire or something I could fix. Didn't expecxt the glue was so overdone it would render everything else useless too.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Yep. My problem is that I'm that guy that took the family tv apart at age 8 just to see what was inside. My last gf had to hide my tools at her dads house to keep me away from a weak a/c unit. Been a curse all my life.

Elev8 said send it in last weekend when it first locked up on its own but since the issue was intermitent and working fine most the time-i figured it was a loose wire or something I could fix. Didn't expecxt the glue was so overdone it would render everything else useless too.

Is the epoxy something that can be removed without screwing anything up?


1.21 gigawatts!!!
 

STEAM_P0WERED

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Does the display brightness "flicker" for anyone else? It does it randomly, going to full brightness, then back to dim, etc. There's no real rhyme or reason to it ... it'll even flicker when firing.

Mine did this the first day I got it, I noticed the positive connector had some glue of flux or something on it. I cleaned it off with rubbing alcohol and have not seen the flickering since.
 

BlueSnake

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My green clone (and a pair of VTC5s) from eciggity was delivered today, at least according to the tracking information. However, it is nowhere available to me. Whatever the opposite of vape mail is, that's what I had today. Suck.

I hope you contacted USPS.
 

pharzus090

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The following picture shows 3 cloupor 30w mods. The left is from wetvapes 3 weeks ago, and the other two are from elev8 shipped on june 17th. I have spotted some differences in physical characteristics already, and will be making another brief video going into more detail shortly... no portrait mode this time! :)

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pharzus090

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Yes I did just make a post and forget to attach the pic that I promised... DUH uploadfromtaptalk1403326702344.jpg

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ClintS

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... I asked several times for anybody to dispute my findings and I would stand corrected.... none disputed .....
I did not dispute the list of issues you consolidated (because they exist) nor directly dispute your overall assessment but chose other paths to a similar end. However when you state
.... none disputed .....
I just could not let that go by.

The "may be dangerous" comment - Simply a wide open statement that solidifies no absolutes and is virtually meaningless . It "may be dangerous" to sleep, get up up in the morning, cross the street, fly in airplanes, drive or ride in a car, or be around pressed wood products, carpet, cleaning products, or air fresheners - just a few of the thousands of potentially dangerous situation and things around us on a daily basis. "May be dangerous" comments serve no one.

In everything we do, we either find ways to minimize risk or we should be - vapor devices are no different, they do some have some level of inherent risk.

But I was looking for the "may be dangerous" meat out of the 21 things listed to understand the non recommendation - so let's see what is there. My comments in parentheses along with the applicable item if I felt a comment was needed - retird's bullet numbers remain as he posted.

(Minimal or no potential for danger - in some cases considering proper usage)
1. Milling process of the enclosure allows “swirls” in the drip well and fire switch areas. (if you have OCD then this really pertains, to many of us it is a non issue)
2. Removable back plate of the enclosure may not fit smoothly in all devices. (I'll assume this is about the slight alignment of the edges as a couple people have reported - this may be an issue for OCD folks and this misalignment was of the magnitude of the thickness of a piece of hair as reported by some.)
3. Screws used the back plate are of poor quality. (The softer screws may actually have been designed as such to reduce the probability of stripping threads in the aluminum housing - it is simply much easier and less costly to deal with broken or stripped screws than stripped threads in the major component. Proper tools and technique make the screws a none issue)
4. Threaded hole to receive the back plate screws are stripped on some devices. (possible, or did the new owner forget which direction to loosen threads - it sure would not be the first time that has happened - they should have returned the item to the vendor if it arrived that way - this what warranty's are for!)
6. 510 connector not installed flush with the enclosure thus allowing slightly tilting of toppers on some devices. (Is the cause of the tilting topper because of the slightly raised connection or ? The raised connection may be by design, allowing airflow into atomizers that get air from the bottom of the atomizer, and/or a second possibility, to reduce the transfer of heat from an atomizer to the aluminum body of the device - multiple positive side effects by doing this and a concept used on a couple of high end mechanical mods - a none issue to many)
7. Battery holder can become dislodged from enclosure due to the use of less effective attachment securing media. (you can simply push, pull, and tug to remover the battery, which should have already been noted as not a way to remove a battery - OR - use a thumb or finger to hold the bottom of the battery in position and another finger to grip the battery at the top and lever the battery out of the case, minimizing the risk to adversely effecting the battery holder. I've replaced my battery at least 3 dozen times - a non issue)
8. USB port can be dislodged from enclosure due to use of less effective attachment securing media. (using care to make sure the male portion of the USB plug is lined up with the female portion will remove the extra "bull in the china closet" stress created by other means)
9. Fire/up/down buttons can become dislodged in some devices due to the use of less effective attachment media. (possible yes - but buttons are designed to be pushed not punched, see the bull comment above - BTW Why are many DIY mods built this way?)
12. When pressing the fire button to allow the unit to operate from sleep mode two or more presses are required. (Not always!!!! yes a minute hassle that can be resolved in less than .2 of a second)
13. When coming out of sleep mode it is noted that the wattage setting has changed on some devices requiring resetting the wattage each time the device comes out of sleep mode. (if you're OCD, well I already covered that - and I posted this was something that I had not even noticed)
14. When the device is in locked mode and it comes out of sleep mode with the power lock function activated the power lock mode is no longer activated in some devices. (not confirmed through a repeatedly means - could just as easily been user error or another sometimes thing)
17. The ohm reading on the display does not accurately relay the true ohm reading of the coil it is measuring. The variance may be small or larger depending on the clone device as there is no consistent variation. (and the point being? - the DNA chips have somewhat the same issue as well - just to lesser inaccuracy - both device only display the ohms down to a 1/10 of an ohm - if a device is actually .75 what should it be displayed as .7 or .8, just the beginning of the error readings.)
18. The voltage reading while firing displayed is different that the voltage actually reaching the coil. (this is true of the Hanna, VaporShark, MVP, SVD, and probably many others devices)
19. The warranty contained in the instruction sheet indicated a manufacturer warranty of 90 days. This has not been confirmed however vendors warranty periods are all over the map from DOA to 7 weeks to ????? (warranty issues should always be addressed with the seller BEFORE buying the product whether a mod, an automobile, a house, a commercial building, etc!)
20. Logo devices and those that display Hana Modz on the display seem to violate USA trademark laws. Some vendors have gone underground and China is still sending them and vendors are still selling them. (If the items were trademarked then they would be confiscated at the border - however they do violate the intellectual property rights of Hanna Modz as will as their yet to be approval for a registered trademark - but it seems as if the vaping community has little regard overall concerning intellectual property rights )
21. The Clone is reported by many to put out less power that the real dna at the same wattage setting. A scope analysis will eventually compare them to either confirm or deny this claim. My experience confirms this assumption. (Does not require any scoping - it does put out less power at the same settings with the same atomizer than the DNA chips - which could be a plus to some I suppose but bothers me not cause I don't match a setting from device to device)

(Items of concern)
5. 510 connector center pin is not properly sized in width thus allowing possible short circuits to occur with certain toppers.(Certain toppers can cause a short on some mods so this is not unique in that regard, but the mod pin is oversized - to minimize risk and concern make sure your toppers have the 510 pin protruding from the 510 threads at least a slight bit. Do this before you buy the device or resolve the issue before using it. If you are using a device with a floating pin (some Russian 91% v2s , either replace the floating pin or preferably do not use the device on the Clouper clone)
10. On some devices the attachment media used to secure the clone dna board in the enclosure is applied over board components that radiate heat during operation. This can allow heat buildup. (Hopefully only a few effected - but will lead to an eventual earlier demise of the device compared to if it did not exist)
15. When the device is in sleep mode and left unattended it will come out of sleep mode without any button push by the user on some devices. (I'm not sure what to make of this and don't know if it could be a safety issue or not - one of the reasons I keep reading about this device)
16. The on board temperature sensing circuit activates at a higher rate of occurrence compared to the real dna. (Meaning? Is at such a high temperature setting that it might allow a battery to vent or kill the electronics chips? Time will tell)

While I don't totally disagree with your non-recommendation - I think it really depends on the person wanting one. There are a few that posted in this thread that should probably NEVER purchase any first run item of any kind. And anyone expecting Provari quality should be looking at first rate suppliers and products - first run items are not for them either.

However it seems as if thousands can tolerate the little issues and the possible safety concerns that hopefully they will keep in mind every time they use the device. Regarding the "may be dangerous" comment, see my opening comment.
 

truskme

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so i read about the 510 problem people were having but not to many are reporting the chips just dying on them, that was my problem... my screen just stopped working and then the whole thing stopped. i called illvapes for a replacement which they were happy to deliver even though im out of my 7 day exchange period, but they claim out of the 600-1000 they sent out only 15 were reported to need exchanges. now they set some aside for exchanges in case of failures but my question is are they from the older batch with the flawed 510's? and will the replacement just crap out on me in a week like this one did? funny enough when i grilled the rep at illvapes about the 510's he had not heard of anything which is no surprising since they were clueless to any updates the entire pre order. so has anyone else who's had there modz for a week or more had any problems with chip failure like me? or was i just one of the 1%....
 

pharzus090

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So, are these things worth it or having issues?

thinking hard about buying one but idk
saw. wait for my vid. ill explain.

I don't want to stir things up around here, but on the new ones I have, I have so far experienced wake on first click 100% of the time. much more thorough testing will need to be done though, but my first impression is that the ones we received early on were of a version that was still being tested. they were most likely produced around the time the vendors received their test units, and were missing out on the finishing touches. then released to apease the masses who were getting very irritates with delays.

there are quite a few other subtle differences that make it seem much more stable, but ill save that for the vid.

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Completely Average

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Yep. My problem is that I'm that guy that took the family tv apart at age 8 just to see what was inside. My last gf had to hide my tools at her dads house to keep me away from a weak a/c unit. Been a curse all my life.

Totally understand.

The day I bought my car and brought it home the engine hadn't even cooled down before I was removing the interior to replace the speakers and wiring and adding an amp and subwoofer.


Elev8 said send it in last weekend when it first locked up on its own but since the issue was intermitent and working fine most the time-i figured it was a loose wire or something I could fix. Didn't expecxt the glue was so overdone it would render everything else useless too.

It really is a mess and it's only done because they can't be bothered to do proper wire routing and trimming.
 

ClintS

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-Finish was very nice overall, but a few tiny marks right out of the box. I used to work in an anodizing shop (nearly 20 years ago) and this finish will scratch very easily - hence the immediate J-wrap. For anyone still wondering, the black Canas are definitely not painted.
I agree the black devices scratch too easily and a wrap is probably warranted if looks are a concern. I have one just have not put it on yet. The 4 week old mod is obviously showing signs of wear on the sharp corners.

I believe the black device was electrostatically painted or finished. If it was anodized then it is a chromic acid anodized process (soft) or something similar that has not been used in the states since the 70s.

Outside of that the clone has more than 120 hours of use and being carried in a pocket - for the last week I have vaped drippers at 20-25 watts and really appreciate the near constant vape as compared to using a mechanical.
 

pharzus090

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I believe the black device was electrostatically painted or finished. If it was anodized then it is a chromic acid anodized process (soft) or something similar that has not been used in the states since the 70s.

clint. I will also have an answer to this...

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