Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

[pharzus090]

Thanks for the Vid One question, is the resistance reading correct.

they read the same on the new ones as the old according to the display. I will run a meter test when I get the chance. I will say on the green one, the led does not turn green when fully charged. I doubt they would use a different charging board, or so many are deffective... it is probably because it turns green at a voltage threshold, and some batts are not hitting that threshold. I will run tests with that to identify the root cause too

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[retird]

Just a point of information should anybody decide to replace the chipset in the clone.... 20 guage copper stranded wire with high temperature insulation is recommended. Larger wire will not fit in the through-hole solder points. 24 guage wire is recommended for the switches.... also the DIN bridge (rail) will not work to secure the chipset because of the design and placement of the through-hole solder points....

 

[pharzus090]

I think some ppl are going to be mad that they got devices that dont fire on first click, and are painted whilst everyone else from this point forward will be receiving a better quality product. That was the point of this vid.

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[duroSIG556R]

they read the same on the new ones as the old according to the display. I will run a meter test when I get the chance. I will say on the green one, the led does not turn green when fully charged. I doubt they would use a different charging board, or so many are deffective... it is probably because it turns green at a voltage threshold, and some batts are not hitting that threshold. I will run tests with that to identify the root cause too

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Interesting. My green clone isn't turning green either. It's kind of pissing me off.

 

[MrPlink]

Ok. One thing has confused me forever and maybe you guys can explain. Why does this chart show for 4v and above you need a 1.8 ohm build or higher? What enables us to us the low ohms at 4v and higher on the clone? I have a .9 and 1.1 ohm build-28 g, that do seem a little hot sometimes at 4v. Please help!

This chart is WORTHLESS that is why.
You cant make one like this that is so dimensionally simple that is not BROKEN.
Does not take into account ramp up time of different wire, different dynamics of different builds, differences in airflow, differences in juice.

This chart, like most cheater charts on the net, needs to die.

 

[Kyi]

I am still waiting for my red 30 watt mini to ship from Fasttech. Getting impatient and wondering if I should cancel my order and get one of these newer higher watt devices coming out? I still don't want to spend a fortune though. Does anyone know if any vendors are selling mini clones yet??

 

[pharzus090]

Interesting. My green clone isn't turning green either. It's kind of pissing me off.

ill try to test with the same baty thats in my 3 week old clone noe that turns green to try to figure out root cause.

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[garpt01]

Considering all that COULD go wrong, it not engineered properly, I envision some GREAT threads on the subject.

A cloned Billet Box- will be a leaking mess. It is a well engineered product and it has to be.
I'm waiting for a real one myself.

 

[garpt01]

This chart is WORTHLESS that is why.
You cant make one like this that is so dimensionally simple that is not BROKEN.
Does not take into account ramp up time of different wire, different dynamics of different builds, differences in airflow, differences in juice.

This chart, like most cheater charts on the net, needs to die.

Absolutely!
Forget the Chart! Vape by taste. Start low, work up until you hit the "sweet spot". if/ when you get too high, you will know it either due to a too "hot" vape or the burnt off-taste, then back it own a few tenths at a time. There is no right/ wrong number, within reasons stated above..

 

[herb]

I think some ppl are going to be mad that they got devices that dont fire on first click, and are painted whilst everyone else from this point forward will be receiving a better quality product. That was the point of this vid.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

There will always be people who can't wait and buy first , nobody is going to know how reliable these clones are for quite some time , if they are still going strong many months from now good deal.

 

[herb]

I am interested in how reliable these cloned chips are , obviously some are quite different from others even though they have the same specs , and it will be interesting to see which ones are standouts .

 

[Fegbri]

Absolutely!
Forget the Chart! Vape by taste. Start low, work up until you hit the "sweet spot". if/ when you get too high, you will know it either due to a too "hot" vape or the burnt off-taste, then back it own a few tenths at a time. There is no right/ wrong number, within reasons stated above..

The chart was just reference, I know now it is worthless. But honestly you missed the point. My question was why was my .9ohm way too hot? And on this device, it STARTS at 4v so I can't adjust down. So what would you recommend if the 4v is too much on this device? I answered this by the help of the other responses when I posted it and rebuilt a 1.1ohm coil. That worked. This is why I am getting ready to build an sx350 box. It can regulate below the 4v. The problem with this wattage war going on is people forgot about 3.3v-4v, which is some cases produces a FANTASTIC Vape!
Cars are now made with 6speeds, but at least the manufacturers still include 1st and 2nd gear! Ha!

 

[Completely Average]

Just a point of information should anybody decide to replace the chipset in the clone.... 20 guage copper stranded wire with high temperature insulation is recommended. Larger wire will not fit in the through-hole solder points.

According to their spec sheet an 18 gauge wire would fit in the holes. The holes are .040 in diameter. It would be tight, but 18 gauge would fit. At least a solid wire would, twisted wire may be harder.

Alternatively you could always sand down the wire tip that will poke through the board to allow you to use a thicker gauge wire.. The thicker the wire the less resistance and less heating during use.

also the DIN bridge (rail) will not work to secure the chipset because of the design and placement of the through-hole solder points....

I can safely say you have no idea what you're talking about now.

Look!! The impossible. A DIN rail for a DNA30....

You can get DIN rails for PCBs in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. That one wouldn't work in these boxes, but others will. Just get one that clips at the center of the two ends, in between the holes. In an extreme case, simply make one custom that will work. It's not hard to make one. Time consuming, but not hard.

 

[garpt01]

The chart was just reference, I know now it is worthless. But honestly you missed the point. My question was why was my .9ohm way too hot? And on this device, it STARTS at 4v so I can't adjust down. So what would you recommend if the 4v is too much on this device? I answered this by the help of the other responses when I posted it and rebuilt a 1.1ohm coil. That worked. This is why I am getting ready to build an sx350 box. It can regulate below the 4v. The problem with this wattage war going on is people forgot about 3.3v-4v, which is some cases produces a FANTASTIC Vape!
Cars are now made with 6speeds, but at least the manufacturers still include 1st and 2nd gear! Ha!

...There 'ya go!
You answered your own question, in *that* particular case- with the dynamics of the atomizer you were using, the airflow you were getting, the diameter of the coil you built, the juice ratio you were vaping.
For instance, for MY preferences, with a Kayfun, I don't enjoy coils under 1 ohm. I find them too "hot" for my tastes in *THAT* atty, so I build 1.1-1.3 ohm builds. With some drippers, I'm good at .5-.8 with 20+ to 28 watts.

 

[retird]

According to their spec sheet an 18 gauge wire would fit in the holes. The holes are .040 in diameter. It would be tight, but 18 gauge would fit. At least a solid wire would, twisted wire may be harder.

Alternatively you could always sand down the wire tip that will poke through the board to allow you to use a thicker gauge wire.. The thicker the wire the less resistance and less heating during use.



I can safely say you have no idea what you're talking about now.

Look!! The impossible. A DIN rail for a DNA30....

You can get DIN rails for PCBs in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. That one wouldn't work in these boxes, but others will. Just get one that clips at the center of the two ends, in between the holes. In an extreme case, simply make one custom that will work. It's not hard to make one. Time consuming, but not hard.

I assumed that's a custom made bracket for the dna designed by jonniemac, who I've had many conversations with... and guess what.... ( check this link...... http://www.shapeways.com/model/1848...-combo-pack.html?modelId=1848892&materialId=6 ) look familiar???..... not a din after all like you said....


and you photo shopped the picture and called it a din.....misleading at best....

 

[JDeane]

Ok I have received my 2nd Cana DNA 30 Clone. The first one would not fire a Kanger Aerotank Mega ( I have 3 of these ), so I called Wet Vapes where I got it and after going over the problems discussed here and other places, they offered to exchange mine for the Newest version with the new 510 connector. Here are the results:

1: New 510 connector works perfectly on the Kanger Aerotank Mega ( smaller center connector )
2: Fires on the FIRST press of the fire button from sleep mode
3: Green charging LED never comes on, even after 8 hours of charging
4: Ohm reading is within .1 of my Ohm Tester and stays constant
5: Anything below 4.0 volts will make the display flash ( not a problem as I have heard that when it is NON regulated, it runs at the battery voltage like a mech ( Ex = 3.7 volts on my Sony VTC5 )
6: Looks great, Fit and finish is great, battery ( Sony VTC5 ) fits in tightly

So far I am very pleased and thanks again to Wet Vapes as the complete turn around time was 3 days total and they paid shipping both ways. I have seen all of the newest videos showing possible problems etc and here is my view:

I will stay at .8 ohms and above,
I run my Kanger Aerotank Mega at 8.5 Watts at 4.0 volts ( No flashing ), I run my Kayfun Lite Plus ( single coil, 28 G, 10 turns ) RBA at 14 watts, 1.2 ohm and 4.3 volts and both have a much better taste and vapor than my MVP 2.0

One Happy camper here Thanks for the support and tips found on this site. Cya all later, I have more Nicoticket N1H1 to Vape

 

[Steamer861]

If your looking for a DNA chip cradle here's one
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1767249/mamu-chip-cradle.html?materialId=6&li=ostatus

 

[retird]

If your looking for a DNA chip cradle here's one
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1767249/mamu-chip-cradle.html?materialId=6&li=ostatus

Shapeways does have a bunch of stuff for dna....modders that hang around ECF and other forums designed them and Shapeways use their printers to make them....thx for posting....

 

[garpt01]

If your looking for a DNA chip cradle here's one
https://www.shapeways.com/model/1767249/mamu-chip-cradle.html?materialId=6&li=ostatus

I think the bottom line is that we know there ARE much better alternatives out there then throwing gobs of various glues/ epoxies all over the board to secure it. Why use the glues? Cheaper, easier, faster by Chinese manufacturing standards to do that and crank out these things as fast as possible.

 

[retird]

I think the bottom line is that we know there ARE much better alternatives out there then throwing gobs of various glues/ epoxies all over the board to secure it. Why use the glues? Cheaper, easier, faster by Chinese manufacturing standards to do that and crank out these things as fast as possible.

Think ya hit the nail on the head.....cheaper, easier, faster...... the only brackets, spacers, etc that I've found are made with 3d printing process and cost and lead time become the issue.... saw a really neat dna enclosure done with 3d printing.... 70+ bucks for the plastic enclosure and 6 week to get it.... plus shipping.... 3D Printing Service i.materialise | VapeDroid

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