Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!
- Thread starter Fathomrock
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'm using eFest purple 20A 3100 mAh imr 18650. I don't often go below 1 ohm when using these, they last me 10 - 12 hrs. depending on the amount of vaping I do in a day.
Sent by Tapatalk HD on a Kindle HDX.
My order #3388 for an orange unit from Elev8 has shipped.
Unfortunately, I'm going to get the AerotankMini I had ordered at the same time, and ended up buying from litecig instead. I hadn't contacted Elev8 yet to modify my order thinking I would have alot more time.
Unfortunately, I'm going to get the AerotankMini I had ordered at the same time, and ended up buying from litecig instead. I hadn't contacted Elev8 yet to modify my order thinking I would have alot more time.
Do you reckon those will last longer than VTC5s?
Also, just one question to everyone, I'm used to mechs, so I know this is a completely different frame of mind. So I'm trying to keep all my builds between 1ohm and up. The problem is with using thicker gauge wire, basically when using dual coil setups this means having a buttload of wire in there to reach 1ohm etc.
I tried my fogger v4 with 30gauge wire and I hated it, just not a fan of that type of wire. 28 gauge and it rocks, just like I used to have with my mechs, but instead of around 0.5ohms I'm at 0.8, 12wraps each, that's a lot of wire.
This is, IMO, the only downfall I'm seeing with using DNA/regulated.
You can go sub ohm with these. Just turn the power up and drain battery faster. But from my experience they handle sub ohm just fine.
As long as you have the battery for it you should be good.
Sptz.... let me run this by you....
Temperature, I think, has a great deal to do with achieving that "perfect vape".... Vaporizing the e-liquid at a lower temperature results in reduced vapor and reduced flavor.... Vaporizing at a high temperature results in max vapor and reduced flavor/burnt taste..... Vaporizing within a "narrow window" where the e-liquid is vaporized to get best vapor and best flavor is what we strive to achieve.... Temperature changes as we use various ohm's at various watts/volts, various coil wires, airflow, wicking, and various e-liquids...
Temperature, I think, has a great deal to do with achieving that "perfect vape".... Vaporizing the e-liquid at a lower temperature results in reduced vapor and reduced flavor.... Vaporizing at a high temperature results in max vapor and reduced flavor/burnt taste..... Vaporizing within a "narrow window" where the e-liquid is vaporized to get best vapor and best flavor is what we strive to achieve.... Temperature changes as we use various ohm's at various watts/volts, various coil wires, airflow, wicking, and various e-liquids...
Sptz.... let me run this by you....
Temperature, I think, has a great deal to do with achieving that "perfect vape".... Vaporizing the e-liquid at a lower temperature results in reduced vapor and reduced flavor.... Vaporizing at a high temperature results in max vapor and reduced flavor/burnt taste..... Vaporizing within a "narrow window" where the e-liquid is vaporized to get best vapor and best flavor is what we strive to achieve.... Temperature changes as we use various ohm's at various watts/volts, various coil wires, airflow, wicking, and various e-liquids...
I am fully aware. It's just that I was getting "MY" perfect vape with my fogger on my mech and haven't been able to replicate that on the Cana so far. Reason why I didn't want to run sub-ohms was because of battery life and because, to my eyes, it makes sense that you go up in ohms since you now have the power to regulate how much current is thrown into the wire, regardless of it's resistance.
Do you happend to have an inline voltage meter? At what voltage on your mech were you getting the best and with what ohm build?
Someone else had mentioned the Cloupor clones output is a bit low to the original in a question I had posted a couple days ago asking if anyone had scoped these. So set at 16 watts your Cloupor is loosing about 2.8 watts. I wonder if that's a persistent loss all the way up to 30 watts or does it get back in line where it should be at some higher wattage setting, or is it even capable of going all the way to 30. Not that I would vape at that level but just interested to know.
So... How does it vape? Set at 30W right?
I don't mean to be insensitive, but is your only concern having to do things differently? Or the cost of wire? Or has your coil become so massive that at 30W it doesn't reach your desired temperature?
You are entitled to your personal preference, and it is juice dependent too.
I have been vaping a lot of unflavored glycerin lately, so I'm out of touch with respect to flavor.
I built a 2.4ohm coil out of 24ga on a KFL+ and it is working for me, notwithstanding the cost of wire. Please don't tell Mrs 215z. She is just glad I don't stink of smoke.
I'm running a fogger v4.3 / v4+ on a mech and evolv dna 30 box mod and it works flawless on both. I'm usually using 28g but I've used 30g also between .7- 1.1 ohm . You just need to figure out what your mech's output is when your getting your "perfect vape" then set your cana to that setting. Probably a bit higher since it seems the cana output is reportedly a bit lower than what it's setting is displaying.
Have not seen any scope yet.... kinda surprising that no one had done it.... yes the clone chip does not perform as the original...the test I ran showed this and the short time I vaped the clone I consistantly had to increase the wattage by a minimum of 1.6 watts to get my "happy vape" compared to the original....but it seems that the clone varies depending on build quality (quality control).... not bashing just what seems to be going on....
IMHO this device is really made for people who are currently vaping around 16-24 watts with a mechanical and want a regulated vape. I was vaping around 18 watts on my mechanical mods. When I received my Cana I added a few wraps to each of my dual coils in the Fogger v4 taking it from 0.8ohm to 1.0 ohms and at 20 watts It is a much better vape than I was getting on my mechanical mods. Since you were vaping at or above 30 watts, the Cana can't really regulate the mod to you liking. I would suggest using 30g wire instead of 28g wire. If you make a 12 wrap dual micro coil (1.5mm) for you fogger it will be at 1.2ohms. At 22watts that thing will make tremendous vapor and the heat up time will be comparable to what you are used to.
just got my black cloupor clone in time for real deal out for repair good timing 
I agree with temp being the primary factor. You also forgot yo mention surface are of the kanthal, coil inner diameter, and wick diameter (fluffyness) this just goes to show how many factors go into finding that perfect vape, anf why its an art as much as a science.Sptz.... let me run this by you....
Temperature, I think, has a great deal to do with achieving that "perfect vape".... Vaporizing the e-liquid at a lower temperature results in reduced vapor and reduced flavor.... Vaporizing at a high temperature results in max vapor and reduced flavor/burnt taste..... Vaporizing within a "narrow window" where the e-liquid is vaporized to get best vapor and best flavor is what we strive to achieve.... Temperature changes as we use various ohm's at various watts/volts, various coil wires, airflow, wicking, and various e-liquids...
Yep.... many factors to a great vape..... and what "floats my boat may not float yours and visa-versa" I like my vaping simple and as "fiddle free" as possible... here is mine:
All devices are DNA variable wattage using 1200 mah (20 C rated) rechargable batteries and all set to the same wattage setting. (and Darwin)
All cartomizer tanks have 3.0 ohm pre-drilled cartomizers installed.
My juice selection is limited to the same 3 or 4 that I use.
Each device gives me 8 to 10 hours of vaping and never reaches cut-off before I recharge.
Tanks never leak and never any burnt taste. Gives me the desired vapor and flavor.
Cartomizers changed out when flavor begins to drop off, usually around 4 to 5 days if used continually.
I buy the cartomizers in bulk "usually 100 at a time" at a very good price. About a years supply.
I buy my e-liquid in quantities of 100 ml. bottles or larger.
Typical day:
Grab fully charged device.
Fill the 4 ml. tank with e-liquid (through a fill hole). Total e-liquid in tank/cartomizer is 5 ml.
Vape 8 to 10 hours. If out-and-about I take a second identical setup as a spare just in case of a failure (haven't had one yet).
Fiddle free.....satisfies my needs and desires....and that's all that matters to me....
Everybody eventually finds "what floats their boat" and that is what matters....
All devices are DNA variable wattage using 1200 mah (20 C rated) rechargable batteries and all set to the same wattage setting. (and Darwin)
All cartomizer tanks have 3.0 ohm pre-drilled cartomizers installed.
My juice selection is limited to the same 3 or 4 that I use.
Each device gives me 8 to 10 hours of vaping and never reaches cut-off before I recharge.
Tanks never leak and never any burnt taste. Gives me the desired vapor and flavor.
Cartomizers changed out when flavor begins to drop off, usually around 4 to 5 days if used continually.
I buy the cartomizers in bulk "usually 100 at a time" at a very good price. About a years supply.
I buy my e-liquid in quantities of 100 ml. bottles or larger.
Typical day:
Grab fully charged device.
Fill the 4 ml. tank with e-liquid (through a fill hole). Total e-liquid in tank/cartomizer is 5 ml.
Vape 8 to 10 hours. If out-and-about I take a second identical setup as a spare just in case of a failure (haven't had one yet).
Fiddle free.....satisfies my needs and desires....and that's all that matters to me....
Everybody eventually finds "what floats their boat" and that is what matters....
Last edited:
Comprehension is seriously lacking in here, can you point to where i said i am definitely not buying one ? I have clearly said (and numerous times when someone asked) that i have been weighing what every poster is commenting on and i will make a decision after more feedback comes in .
We have a few that say things are great and then a few that say no they are not , there are lots of POTENTIAL buyers in this thread along with many who have purchased , i am in the former group mind you.
Curly did you ever have a chance to post the wrap template? Can't seem to find it..was going to pickup some vinyl and try to cut one out thanks in advance!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
Afternoon vape and a coke... Life is good... Five weeks ago today I received the Hana Modz clone and been using it pretty much exclusively ever since without any major issues... Prior to receiving the cana I was only using mechs with mostly rda's around .2-.5 ohm coils... Occasionally I would use an aqua .4-.7ohm, Russian91 and kayfun lite+ .8-1ohm... I built a magma .7ish ohm dual coil and been vaping it on the cana at max power setting 30w for the last five weeks... Only time I haven't been using the cana magma combo is during the brief moments of cleaning and rewicking... I seem to have found a very satisfying vape for my tastes... One of the things I like the most about the cana is the consistent vape until the battery is just about dead... Now I want to try more regulated devices like an okr box mod, raptor chip mod, sx350 device, and or the 18650 vapor shark that's supposedly coming out soon... Maybe even pick up another Hana Modz clone that's been revised with less quirks... Although, even if I had another v1 exactly like the one I have now I would be happy because in my opinion this cana works well with no major issues...
After I used it for about four days it started to need an extra click to fire out of sleep... According to ohms law, with my cheap inline volt meter and cheap ohm reader, I'm getting about 28w at the 30w setting... Ohms reading is less than .1 off, at .7ish closer to .8 it's reading .7... Only a couple times have I seen the watt setting go down .1 when coming out of sleep mode but it has never happened with power lock enabled... When not in stealth mode I have noticed the screen turning itslef on... I don't use the USB charger but did test it and I do get a green light when battery is full and it doesn't overcharge... If hot glue is white or clear while epoxy is yellow then it appears my cana has no hot glue at all and only globs of epoxy after taking off the cover to have a look-see... I've been chain vaping on and off going through 10ml+ per day with the .7ish ohm build and never seen a too hot message... Going through around three batteries per day and battery tray is still secure... Haven't stripped the battery door screws yet but if I change them I think I'll put some more weak type screws in because it may help prevent the aluminum case screw hole threads from stripping...
If buying a china clone with shady quality control is like playing the lottery then I consider myself a winner with this cloupor Hana Modz dna 30 cana chana chi-na30 mod or whatever you want to call it... I think this mod is recommendable to anyone wanting to try a regulated consistent almost 30w capable vape at .6 ohm and above that can't afford a genuine dna 30 device or that doesn't want to spend a lot on one... I would not give a list of twenty five potential quirks with my recommendation but may mention that quality control isn't the greatest in china although that should be able to go without saying... These are just my opinions and thoughts based on my personal experiences with the v1 cloupor that I received. And hey, my opinions and seventy bucks will only get me another cloupor mod so take it for what it's worth...
After I used it for about four days it started to need an extra click to fire out of sleep... According to ohms law, with my cheap inline volt meter and cheap ohm reader, I'm getting about 28w at the 30w setting... Ohms reading is less than .1 off, at .7ish closer to .8 it's reading .7... Only a couple times have I seen the watt setting go down .1 when coming out of sleep mode but it has never happened with power lock enabled... When not in stealth mode I have noticed the screen turning itslef on... I don't use the USB charger but did test it and I do get a green light when battery is full and it doesn't overcharge... If hot glue is white or clear while epoxy is yellow then it appears my cana has no hot glue at all and only globs of epoxy after taking off the cover to have a look-see... I've been chain vaping on and off going through 10ml+ per day with the .7ish ohm build and never seen a too hot message... Going through around three batteries per day and battery tray is still secure... Haven't stripped the battery door screws yet but if I change them I think I'll put some more weak type screws in because it may help prevent the aluminum case screw hole threads from stripping...
If buying a china clone with shady quality control is like playing the lottery then I consider myself a winner with this cloupor Hana Modz dna 30 cana chana chi-na30 mod or whatever you want to call it... I think this mod is recommendable to anyone wanting to try a regulated consistent almost 30w capable vape at .6 ohm and above that can't afford a genuine dna 30 device or that doesn't want to spend a lot on one... I would not give a list of twenty five potential quirks with my recommendation but may mention that quality control isn't the greatest in china although that should be able to go without saying... These are just my opinions and thoughts based on my personal experiences with the v1 cloupor that I received. And hey, my opinions and seventy bucks will only get me another cloupor mod so take it for what it's worth...
How about you IC , can you come up with something where i said i will definitely not be buying one , i believe i said i am waiting and will buy or not buy based on more feedback .
I said at this point i feel more confident in buying from a maker offering a similar item with a known chip with a one year warranty and also has at least one mod under their belt for the same price.
Of course that can change based on more feedback from the Clouper.
- Status
