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Well, I'm thinking those $7 connectors from madvapes might just be a hard metal that's plated. I ordered a couple so I'll find out for myself (fingers crossed). I mean, there has to be a reason they're charging so much for them, right? If those things are just soft metal, that's like the biggest rip in history.
I have a Puresmoker ICON I bought at one point early on in vaping. That one has an SS atty connector and it's wonderful. Tight smooth fit every time and no wear.
I have a Puresmoker ICON I bought at one point early on in vaping. That one has an SS atty connector and it's wonderful. Tight smooth fit every time and no wear.
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craig,
these?
Shorty 510 Extension and Connector
they look pretty thick. so what if you used one of these?
V2 510 Shorty Extension
or a battery adapter?
what are your thoughts about sealing the underside of the atty?
these?
Shorty 510 Extension and Connector
they look pretty thick. so what if you used one of these?
V2 510 Shorty Extension
or a battery adapter?
what are your thoughts about sealing the underside of the atty?
Yup, those are the ones I ordered, a few of the cheap ones and a couple of the expensive ones. I'll have them next week sometime and the first thing I'm going to look at is the metal they're made out of. That chrome color is a good sign.
I've actually got that same concern myself, sealing that is. I need good sealing on the atty to protect my PCBs from juice. PG is actually pretty corrosive to soft metals and has similar conductivity to water. It will cause problems for electronics when it comes in contact with the PCB. I've proved that for myself.
I use the solid center posts and if not, I fill them with solder, but I would rather use the solid ones to begin with. The inside part on any of these connectors seems to be well sealed normally (as long as it doesn't have a hole in the center post).
It's the mating surface between the atty and the enclosure on the outside that would be the next concern. For a bolt down job, which I plan to do, a thin layer of silicone sealant applied to mounting hole beforehand should take care of it I think. I have another one that does not use a chassis mounted connector and that's going to be more tricky to seal. I'm thinking in terms of a silicone o-ring on that one.
I've actually got that same concern myself, sealing that is. I need good sealing on the atty to protect my PCBs from juice. PG is actually pretty corrosive to soft metals and has similar conductivity to water. It will cause problems for electronics when it comes in contact with the PCB. I've proved that for myself.
I use the solid center posts and if not, I fill them with solder, but I would rather use the solid ones to begin with. The inside part on any of these connectors seems to be well sealed normally (as long as it doesn't have a hole in the center post).
It's the mating surface between the atty and the enclosure on the outside that would be the next concern. For a bolt down job, which I plan to do, a thin layer of silicone sealant applied to mounting hole beforehand should take care of it I think. I have another one that does not use a chassis mounted connector and that's going to be more tricky to seal. I'm thinking in terms of a silicone o-ring on that one.
craig,
i have been sealing the connector to the box using two part clear epoxy. i drip a smallish blob with a toothpick on the backside of the box and atty, attach a old atty to the connector, then roll 90 degrees, small blob of epoxy, roll 90, glue etc. i also tape the front of the box so it will keep the overflow contained. if you do this with the correct amount of epoxy, you get a really nice seal. i have dripped over the atty connector (before filling the box with hot glue) and i dont see any leaks. being a plumber i really hate leaks.
have you tried to build a bottom feed? cant figure out the feed thro the atty thing.
dino
i have been sealing the connector to the box using two part clear epoxy. i drip a smallish blob with a toothpick on the backside of the box and atty, attach a old atty to the connector, then roll 90 degrees, small blob of epoxy, roll 90, glue etc. i also tape the front of the box so it will keep the overflow contained. if you do this with the correct amount of epoxy, you get a really nice seal. i have dripped over the atty connector (before filling the box with hot glue) and i dont see any leaks. being a plumber i really hate leaks.
have you tried to build a bottom feed? cant figure out the feed thro the atty thing.
dino
No, I haven't tried any type of feeder system, though people that use them really seem to like them. A bottom feeder does complicate things a bit with keeping juice out of your circuits. I suppose you would have to chamber your box to seal off the electrical side.
One other thing about bottom feeders the makes me leary of them is tightening the draw. I don't see how a feeder would not constrict air flow to some extent. I really like a loose draw, the looser the better. I even go so far as to bore out the side holes in my cartomizers. And that's with the Boge cartos that already have the loosest draw of anything I've tried.
One other thing about bottom feeders the makes me leary of them is tightening the draw. I don't see how a feeder would not constrict air flow to some extent. I really like a loose draw, the looser the better. I even go so far as to bore out the side holes in my cartomizers. And that's with the Boge cartos that already have the loosest draw of anything I've tried.
I'm pretty sure that these are the same except for the $5 nut. Buy the one without and get one of those round nuts at Ace hardware. I haven't looked for one yet but I picked up a few of the connectors at Vapestock last weekend with that intention.
Robert.
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Craig, I've used the ones with the nut more recently because no matter what kind of epoxy ( jbweld, 3m or numerous others) I used on the regular ones I could sometimes get a taste of it at some point being that close to the heat. After weeks of drying I could notice a hint and once you get it you seem to always taste it then. It didn't happen with every mod but it bothered me enough to stop using any epoxy around the connector. So these things were welcome in my book. I get mine at Avid Vapor .com. He has the sealed and open ones. I always get the open to solder a wire in the hole. Then I usually solder the neg onto the threads and this will help the nut to keep from ever backing off. If I do need to take one out I just heat up the solder. Mine are usually built from the white boxes at madvapes so they are thin enough for these great little connectors. Little things are pricey though. Hope this helps
Edit: you are right about the restriction on bottom feeders. Some are worse than others but in earlier experiments I fitted the bottles with a small check valve or duckbill valve and it did help. I incorporated those into a self feeder too. But just too much hassle for me in the end. With all the great cartos and tanks out now and the great flavor they give, I just stick an extra carto or two in the juice well now.
Edit: you are right about the restriction on bottom feeders. Some are worse than others but in earlier experiments I fitted the bottles with a small check valve or duckbill valve and it did help. I incorporated those into a self feeder too. But just too much hassle for me in the end. With all the great cartos and tanks out now and the great flavor they give, I just stick an extra carto or two in the juice well now.
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Oh yea, I'll take any information on these little gems. I wasn't aware that Avid Vaper offerered any options. I'll have to check that out, rather have solid ones, soldering solid posts has never been an issue in the past.
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