Augvape and Roxy Boreas RTA

[muth]

Well, it was touch and go there for awhile but my AJFC ring is like butter now and no leaking (even when it's been sideways). I'm not sure I subscribe to the instructions to keep one hole 1/2 open upon first fill. I realize that's probably to let juice flow down into the well but, then upon opening it, you get a little leakage. I do what @Hightech Redneck does and give it a couple of pulls while upside down. Speed up the process

 

[Jdurand]

I gave away my Boreas and went back to the Aromamizers for simplicity sake. This is not a bad tank, just a touch over engineered for my taste.

I guess I'm a simpleton at heart!!!! lol

 

[Paul lamb]

Spaz review. That 420 fella.

It's his second review he spoke about it highly in another review

 

[MMW]

He definitely loves it! He's a spaz!

 

[Landman]

FYI...

BOREAS O RING SIZES
Drip tip (2) 8 x 1
Top of chimney stem where fill ports are 9 x 1
Top cap 18 x 1
Glass tank seals (2) 24 x 1
Bottom of chimney stem 10 x 1
Top of afc ring 18 x 1
Below afc ring (2) 17 x 1
Base: large is 18 x 1, small in bottom is 11 x 1.2
Deck 12 x 1

 

[suprtrkr]

A friend PM'd, apparently having a problem wicking the Boreas. I pulled my deck to take a pic to show what I had done, and this showed my my coils were getting crusty and the wick was beyond nappy:

So, I decided to rewick it today, and post a how-to. The build is twisted 26 316SS on a 3.5mm mandrel for .18Ω, and it vapes so sweet on the RX in TCSS mode at 90 watts and 530° I couldn't see any sense in changing. I disassembled, pulled the wick, dry burnt the coils and washed the entire tank. I wick rayon and this method has given good success.

Here's the deck to start:

Cut a piece of rayon rope about 1.5" long, and rip in half long ways. Twist the rayon half-rope and feed through the coil, then untwist and straighten the fibers:

Cut the tails so they are slightly longer than the bottom of the deck:

Fan the tails, and thin them by half volume; left side is cut and right awaits the snip:

Make a "U-turn" with the tails and pack them down onto the deck, in the space between the outer wall and the foot on the positive post. The idea is to have the side of the tail laying on the juice hole, not the end. The ends of the tails face each other and touch in the middle between the juice holes:

Another view, from above-ish:

Saturate your wicks with juice, and check to make sure they are beside the positive foot, not covering the air hole in the center. If they are, use your cotton hook and get them out of there:

Reassemble the tank, pop in the deck, fill with your favorite elixir, and vape happy!

 

[Petabread]

A friend PM'd, apparently having a problem wicking the Boreas. I pulled my deck to take a pic to show what I had done, and this showed my my coils were getting crusty and the wick was beyond nappy:
View attachment 550172

So, I decided to rewick it today, and post a how-to. The build is twisted 26 316SS on a 3.5mm mandrel for .18Ω, and it vapes so sweet on the RX in TCSS mode at 90 watts and 530° I couldn't see any sense in changing. I disassembled, pulled the wick, dry burnt the coils and washed the entire tank. I wick rayon and this method has given good success.

Here's the deck to start:
View attachment 550173

Cut a piece of rayon rope about 1.5" long, and rip in half long ways. Twist the rayon half-rope and feed through the coil, then untwist and straighten the fibers:
View attachment 550174

Cut the tails so they are slightly longer than the bottom of the deck:
View attachment 550175

Fan the tails, and thin them by half volume; left side is cut and right awaits the snip:
View attachment 550176

Make a "U-turn" with the tails and pack them down onto the deck, in the space between the outer wall and the foot on the positive post. The idea is to have the side of the tail laying on the juice hole, not the end. The ends of the tails face each other and touch in the middle between the juice holes:

View attachment 550177

Another view, from above-ish:
View attachment 550178

Saturate your wicks with juice, and check to make sure they are beside the positive foot, not covering the air hole in the center. If they are, use your cotton hook and get them out of there:
View attachment 550179

Reassemble the tank, pop in the deck, fill with your favorite elixir, and vape happy!

Man, that first picture looks like my chest hair dandruff after I go to the gym.

 

[DP2Raja]

Just did a full wash, clean, dry burn and rewick yesterday. I just love this tank. The way it vapes, the way it feels so substantial and solid. The way it looks and all fits so perfectly together. I do not think this is over engineered at all. I have the AFC set to 2 holes open, a couple of simple 3mm ID claptons, 0.34 ohm @ 52.2 watts and it is just a dream. No leaks, no problems once I changed out the broken o-ring.

If I lost this one (#0020 of the first run) I would replace it with TWO more!! That's how much I like this puppy! Gonna grab the gold plated AFC ring for the fun of it. I think it will look stunning on this SS version.

 

[suprtrkr]

Yeah, Raja, she's a keeper

 

[rbchesapeakeball]

I finally got one!

 

[suprtrkr]

I finally got one!

You're gonna love it. As Raja says, I don't think it's over-engineered at all. I think it's a simpler and more effective design than the Aromamizer, and maybe the best tank yet built. It'll wick anything from 70/30 to straight VG, tolerate builds from 15 to 250 watts, and it'll MTL or blow cloud. There's one guy who build a half-dam out of moldable silicone or something and is running it single coil.

I put up a post about wicking above on this page; cotton would wick the same way, except you might not want to thin the tails as cotton doesn't wick as well as rayon. Most of us are filling from the bottom, but top fill works too once you get the knack: open the AFC/JFC all the way, invert the tank and wait for the juice to drain out of the lower compartment; (some people like to take a hit or 3 inverted to drain any condensation from the air passages at this point); close the AFC; turn upright and remove the top cap; fill; replace top cap, inverting for the last half turn; open AFC and hold inverted for a few seconds; then vape on. If you have any other troubles-- there were some bad o-rings in the first production run-- sing out and we'll help.

 

[gadgetkeith]

You're gonna love it. There's one guy who build a half-dam out of moldable silicone or something and is running it single coil.
.

I aint got one yet but the deck looks same style as the aromamizer would this work .

pull the poss post rotate 90 degrees and replace

I also cut a shim out of a piece silicone tube to go under new post position and cover the juice holes under the post or unless you get your wick under the post you will have flooding issues .

This is my mod on the old v1 Aromamizer and it vapes realy well as a single coil option

It will run pretty much run anything i throw in it now the deck has been opened up

It has even run a big bore 6mm id clappy and will chug the juice down when its required

Its just an idea as the decks look the same .

I did a thread on this for the Aromamizer if anyone is interested and wants to give it a go on this atty like i say it would prob work i just aint got one of these yet to test it on .

here is the link Aromamizer Single Coil Set-up With a TWIST

 

[suprtrkr]

I aint got one yet but the deck looks same style as the aromamizer would this work .

pull the poss post rotate 90 degrees and replace

I also cut a shim out of a piece silicone tube to go under new post position and cover the juice holes under the post or unless you get your wick under the post you will have flooding issues .

View attachment 550462 View attachment 550463 View attachment 550464 View attachment 550465 View attachment 550466

This is my mod on the old v1 Aromamizer and it vapes realy well as a single coil option

It will run pretty much run anything i throw in it now the deck has been opened up

It has even run a big bore 6mm id clappy and will chug the juice down when its required
View attachment 550472

Its just an idea as the decks look the same .

I did a thread on this for the Aromamizer if anyone is interested and wants to give it a go on this atty like i say it would prob work i just aint got one of these yet to test it on .

here is the link Aromamizer Single Coil Set-up With a TWIST

Maybe, but I doubt it. The positive foot is longer, I think, it might not turn 90 degrees; or it might get in the way of the juice holes. I haven't tried, though, so maybe. It definitely could not be center wicked like your photos, though. The air is in the center. If you could do it at all, it would have to be a hollow core vertical, externally wicked. If you could... that would be pretty powerful

 

[gadgetkeith]

Maybe, but I doubt it. The positive foot is longer, I think, it might not turn 90 degrees; or it might get in the way of the juice holes. I haven't tried, though, so maybe. It definitely could not be center wicked like your photos, though. The air is in the center. If you could do it at all, it would have to be a hollow core vertical, externally wicked. If you could... that would be pretty powerful

are we talking about the Boreas or some other atty, as you say it could not be center wicked . the air comes in at the sides, but you say the center, if you externally wicked it, you would be sucking air through wet wicked cotton.

I think you are talking about another atty as you lost me .

 

[KayP]

The Boreas' positive post is similar to the one found in the original Velocity RDA, whereby its leg runs horizontally from the center pin and to the side wall of the deck. This leg rests on a peak insulator. The difference is that in the Velocity RDA there a horizontal groove cut into the deck's side wall, in which rests the peak insulator and the post runs vertically upwards from there. In the Boreas the positive post falls short just before reaching the deck's side wall and therefore it does not come into contact with it.

As for the airflow, in the Boreas there are notches on the deck which lines up with the inner chamber of the chimney; therefore, it is designed to line up your coils with the airflow holes. If you do spin the positive post, I don't see any airflow interference. As for the leg, it appears to be sitting strong and firm. Half of the leg (horizontal section) is still being supported by the peak. The positive post is still clearing the side wall of the deck; therefore, there is not contact.

Now if you look closely, you will notice there is a hole in the peak insulator (close to the side wall). On the bottom of the positive post is a protruding pin (it's part of the post and cannot come loose). The pin is supposed to rest in there for more stability. The protrusion is not long enough to come into contact with the floor of the deck; therefore, it looks like it is not touching the base, even with the positive spun into this new position.

Edit: The pictures are of the Boreas deck.

 

[gadgetkeith]

Thank You @KayP

looks like it could work with a little bit of tweaking ie you would need to loose the locating tabs to offset the deck alignment etc .

food for thought tho

 

[KayP]

Hey @suprtrkr . Did I mention I now have a Boreas?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[suprtrkr]

Hey @suprtrkr . Did I mention I now have a Boreas?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

If you did, I missed it. Good on you

 

[Paul lamb]

I just threw a 3mm 316l twisted 8 wraps

The coils are hugggggge but absolutely no issues 85w tasty vape

 

[KayP]

If you did, I missed it. Good on you

It is miles apart from the Mutank, and I remember correctly you used to love your Mutanks. How are you liking your Boreas?

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