Avoid Subtank Mini. Its the worst tank i have experienced thus far.
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On average, I experience less problems with my ST Minis than with the other dozen tanks I own, especially given how much they're carried around and used.
Technique, power settings, VG/PG ratio, wicking, ambient temperature... ... All of these variables can make the difference between a great vape and a crappy one.
Most of the popular tanks on the market are similarly constructed. The ST Mini may not be the device for you, but you're going to experience quirks with every one. If you're experiencing spitting with both pre-built coils and the RBA (noticed your other comment in a similar thread) then you're probably going to experience the same thing with a number of tanks.
Technique, power settings, VG/PG ratio, wicking, ambient temperature... ... All of these variables can make the difference between a great vape and a crappy one.
Most of the popular tanks on the market are similarly constructed. The ST Mini may not be the device for you, but you're going to experience quirks with every one. If you're experiencing spitting with both pre-built coils and the RBA (noticed your other comment in a similar thread) then you're probably going to experience the same thing with a number of tanks.
i have 3 originals and 1 clone and all work great. no leaking and no spitting. keep trying and you will get it worked out.
The STM has been around for quite a while and is a pretty popular device. It has a pretty solid fanbase and there are many threads here that already discuss it in every conceivable detail.
To start a thread like this (after how long this atty has been around) just sounds immature and inflammatory.
If you need help with the STM, there are many people here that can walk you through any issue you are experiencing. You just have to ask and provide detailed questions.
To start a thread like this (after how long this atty has been around) just sounds immature and inflammatory.
If you need help with the STM, there are many people here that can walk you through any issue you are experiencing. You just have to ask and provide detailed questions.
Mine works fine. All my leaks were due to user error and it only spit with one particular juice I made. No gurgles at all.
*~*moonlitwish*~*
*~*moonlitwish*~*
I like mine. I have the v1 deck and the v2. I can see how the screw on the v2 could cause problems. I my experience you have to put a ALOT of cotton in your coils.
Steve you need to rethink what you said. I used the Subtank Nano for a while. The flavor was better but the OCC heads were so jam packed with cotton the airflow was abysmal and would not wick my 70/30 juice well.
It got a lot better after I started rewicking and building coils for it.
Then I bought a Mini for my sister's birthday. It claimed to be authentic but obviously s clone the I could barely get the authentic OCC head and base to screw onto the top section.
I would recommend people avoid the Subtank versions until Kanger fixes the OCC heads
Terrific point.
Just make sure you get an authentic and not a clone
My one and only complaint about the RBA the screws are too darn close to the wall. You will have shorts if the coil I'd not under the screw perfectly.
Sorry Jefx. Maybe he got a piece of .... clone like I accidentally have to my sister for her birthday.
The person who started the thread may have a perfectly legitimate reason for what he said.
Rethink what?...I didnt say anything about the OCC heads. You are talking about the nano and thread title mentions the mini which is what I was referring to (obviously as the nano doesnt take the RBA head). Anyway, the Ni premades in particular suck for the reasons you say. I think the new vertical coil kanthals are better but havent tried them. Might try the Ni if they ever release them.
You were pretty rough on the person who started the thread.
I just wanted you to rethink your position because there are clones out there that look completely authentic until you put a head in the base and try to assemble
I have used a mini and tried to build on the RBA, AND I got a short about 80% of the time because the screws were too _____ close to the wall.
I saw Rip Trippers vid how to rebuild the OCC heads and built those till I broke my tank so I went to the Nano and rebuilt there until I started using RDAs.
U accidentally bought the clone Mini for my sister. Same box, same manuals down to the smallest detail until I put an authentic OCC head in the mini and to borrow a line "this does not compute." Had a very hard time to get the threads to work to assemble the darn thing
wel OP might have been a little less 'robust' in his summary to be honest. The STM's are not 'ship'. If he had just posted his problem that would have been fine. I get frustrated with devices as much as anyone. In any case, it wasnt particulalry harsh for heaven's sake!! Worth remebering that a lot of people come here to assess devices prior to purchase and thread titles like that could put someone off getting a perfectly fine atty just because an individual had a bad experience with one component of something that might not even be an authentic!
I would recommend people avoid ANYONE from using any version of the Subtank until Kanger fixes two problems.
1. Increased the airflow.
2. Willing to rebuild the OCC heads because lately Kanger has been packing too much cotton in the heads and people are getting dry hits. One dry hit and the wick is ruined and you taste the burned wick until you replace the head.
Not everyone needs or likes massive lung hit airflow. While I'm not a huge fan of the STM for my personal use, lack of airflow was never an issue.
The more common complaint is exactly the opposite.
Steve, I would have to agree the NI premades suck. I did get a .5 and a 1.2 ohm vertical Kanthal with the last tank I bought and they performed surprising well. I prefer the RBA head so I wouldn't buy them unless I was in a pinch (vacation or traveling) but they vaped pretty well.
For the OP and others that are having problems with the authentic tanks, if you build them correctly they are great tanks. I haven't had any issues with shorting or flooding and I build three of my own and two for a coworker. Once in a while (very rarely) I'll do a build and wick it wrong and end up getting dry hits but it's usually when I am rushing to knock out the build. The V1 RBA is sometimes a pain to take apart because the threading jams up and the V2 the little screw is to small for my crappy eyes but after literally hundreds of builds these tanks have produced excellent results.
I only ever use my STM with the RBA section
My STM never leaks or gurgles, it never spits either - basically it's the most reliable and consistent tank that I've used in over four years of vaping.
For anyone having major issues with this tank, you've either got a defective product or you're not building it correctly.
A bad workman always blames his tools.
My STM never leaks or gurgles, it never spits either - basically it's the most reliable and consistent tank that I've used in over four years of vaping.
For anyone having major issues with this tank, you've either got a defective product or you're not building it correctly.
A bad workman always blames his tools.
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Hi Marc,
yes, the Kanthal premades (pariculalry the 1.2's to my mind) work reasonably well. The Ni premades suffer from, amongst other things, the length of the legs on the horizontal coils. Never seem to get a stable resistance or at least very rarely. I think I got 2 out a 5-pack to work ok. Trashed the rest.
Agaiun, agree about the RBAs v1 and 2. I have two minis and got a spare base which, along with the4 or five RBA heads means I have a few stacked up and ready to go pretty much. Ive been throwing twisted 30g Ti in there of late. Absolutely fantastic actually. Great flavour and vapour! In spite of the Tengus/phenoms/Erls/Tile's/GEMs/squapes/taifuns/merkavas/hurricanes etc etc I still use the STMs regularly (and my v1 atlantis with the RBA head for that matter). Love 'em and wont hear a bad word against them (well only reasonable ones lol!!)
Like the OP, I too find the version 2 mini a bit frustrating and I have also been building for a few years. With version 2 I find you have to keep the juice level up to the middle to top of the holes on the side of the the rebuild-able head for it to work well putting any decent wattage through. The wick placement/density also seems somewhat touchy. Same technique and I get a great vape or a poor one without any apparent difference in what I have been doing. The version 1 head had the juice intakes on the bottom of the the rebuild-able head with a Kayfun-type juice well that allowed a lower usable/effective juice level in the tank; it was just easier to wick for me. Otherwise, I have not had a problem with the little side screw and do find it a sweet vaping tank when working. As an aside, the missus loves this tank with the stock 1.2 ohm heads- then again, there is no accounting for taste.
Personally, I find the iSub G generally easier to work with, although rebuilding those coil heads is surely more challenging. But, re-wiking the stock .5 ohn heads for some reason seems easier to me than the Kanger and one stock iSub head lasts me weeks re-wicking every four to five days.
Personally, I find the iSub G generally easier to work with, although rebuilding those coil heads is surely more challenging. But, re-wiking the stock .5 ohn heads for some reason seems easier to me than the Kanger and one stock iSub head lasts me weeks re-wicking every four to five days.
The problem. Too airy for a MTL and too restrictive for a lung hit.
After I wicked my own coils the airflow was better but still not capable of a lung hit
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