Bad aspire nautilus coils!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter cameronlotz22
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You most likely either have juice in the center air tube or, the little metal dome at the top of the tank is not screwed on tight would be my bet. You have to be sure that everything is tightened up or the tank will not be pressurized causing it to leak.
I have been using these since they first came out and the only time that I had a leak, the metal dome on top of the tank came loose when I was changing out the coil allowing air into the tank and depressurizing it. Worth a shot to check that out.
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i wont buy anymore of their products. overrated and overpriced.
..luv the tank..hate the coils.
..luv the tank..hate the coils.
Interesting. The coils are more miss than hit on the nautilus. I've practically given up on mine - I'm not sure that changing the fibre thickness will help much, it just looks to me that the holes are too small to wick the liquid through sufficiently. A lot of people have had excellent results rewicking with cotton, but i bought the nautilus for the convenience so i am not going down that route, i would rather spend the time making coils and wicks for the KFL.
I bought a nautilus about a week after I started vaping (1.5months) and it was great.
I moved on to a KFL+V2, but have recommended the nautilus to new users.
They're all experiencing problems with bad coils, flooding, leaking.
Kiki Chan at aspire will do absolutely nothing to help you. Her response to my email about the bad coils (rising ohms), flooding, and leaking? "Wash the tank". When i replied that this didn't help, I got nothing in response. When I asked to send it back? nothing in response.
I am done with chinese vendors. Period.
The coils in the first batches were primarily good. As they've ramped up production, the quality has degraded to poor at best.
I moved on to a KFL+V2, but have recommended the nautilus to new users.
They're all experiencing problems with bad coils, flooding, leaking.
Kiki Chan at aspire will do absolutely nothing to help you. Her response to my email about the bad coils (rising ohms), flooding, and leaking? "Wash the tank". When i replied that this didn't help, I got nothing in response. When I asked to send it back? nothing in response.
I am done with chinese vendors. Period.
The coils in the first batches were primarily good. As they've ramped up production, the quality has degraded to poor at best.
I've had the exact same problem with both Kanger and Nautilus heads increasing in resistance. You have to increase the voltage on a VV device. VW PV's do that for you. Eventually, the coil will open up and you're done.
I think that so many people are vaping VW devices they don't realize that the voltage is being increased as the resistance goes up and up. My average life of a Kanger Mega coil, Kanger T3S, or Nautilus head has been about one day of vaping.
VW hides the issue by compensating for resistance changes. If every one would switch to VV and check the resistance when the vape falls off, we'd be able to document this problem much more widely. Both companies need to own up to the issues.
Now, for what I have found as a cause. If you pull the bottom pin once an atomizer shows open, you will find that one leg is broken away inside the atomizer. Both companies are using NR-R-NR construction (non-resistance-resistance-nonresistance coil construction) which is basically a coil with standard wire legs silver soldered to the coil on each side. These legs are soldered right at the left and right side of the coil where heat can break down the solder joint. Wire welding might be a better method.
I have enough bad heads that I can just micro coil them all over and over again until the problem is fixed in manufacturing.
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Interesting to hear all this. I purchased an Aspire Naut 10 days ago and the first coil lasted nearly through day 5. I opened my 1.6 ohm 5-pack and they taste burnt by the end of the day. I have lowered my tesla from 7watts down to 6.0 with no diff. I havent changed my juice and I don't quite understand why these are lame. I was in love with the first coil tons of vapor and flavor. Is anyone else having 1 day coil life?
there is a long thread somewhere... guy tested this with like 100-200 coils bottom line was like 30% or more of coils were just bad and will not wick or work right or pop straight off the bat and nothing you can do will fix it.... quality control tsk tsk non existent and it's a shame if this had reliable coil replacements it would be worth it... I personally can't stand using it not knowing if the next coil you pop in is going to work or not it's just annoying even having to think about it all the time this isn't how it should be.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Yeahhhhhh
I had the same problem with the Nautilus, sent an email and basically got that same reply, looks like its a copy/paste job so they must be receiving LOTS of emails of complaints.
I just bit the bullit and started rebuilding the dual coil heads on the nautilus, its easy enough to do, that way you can repair the broken heads.
I had the same problem with the Nautilus, sent an email and basically got that same reply, looks like its a copy/paste job so they must be receiving LOTS of emails of complaints.
I just bit the bullit and started rebuilding the dual coil heads on the nautilus, its easy enough to do, that way you can repair the broken heads.
I have been having the same problem! Every time i fill my tank it will flood the atomizer and leak liquid through the air flow holes. Not only that but i have been replacing atomizers about once a week because they start to taste burnt! I review liquid online, so this has been affecting me greatly and have not been able to review for a while now!
Vic, are you rebuilding them as duals? Is it similar to other small carto coils. I haven't taken one apart yet but the w flat wicks between the coils on the inside wall are a bit intimidating. Just wondering what you are doing to duplicate this type of wicking.
My Nautilus vaped beautifully for the first couple of months. When I bought some more replacement heads the low life problem started. The heads were in blister packs with the Aspire Nautilus logo printed on the foil just like the good ones I bought with my Nautilus.
I went through 10 heads in a row that died in a day. The problem was rising resistance over time until it got to about 4 ohms (on a 1.8 ohm head). I had to raise the voltage to compensate and finally they would die and read open when I hit 4.2v or so.
I've had this same problem with about 20 Kanger Aerotank heads and I have to suspect that there's a common manufacturing source involved. I have had Kanger dual coils and Kanger T3S heads do the same thing. BTW, I like the vapor and flavor from the Kanger T3S heads as much, maybe more than the Aerotank Mega DC heads, but with the bad head issues I may not have seen either at their best.
The funny part is that after going through about 20 or 30 heads that lasted from 2 hours to a day I finally hit one head that was the last one in a 5 pack that was fine. I've been vaping on this one 2 ohm head for almost 24 hours and it still reads 2.2 ohms and has great flavor.
The ones that burned out and read open suffered from a failed silver solder joint where the non resistive leads are soldered to the resistive coil at each end. It's definitely a design/fabrication issue. The solder joints are right next to either end of the coil, almost touching the coils themselves. IMO, there should he some distance away from the hot coil before the solder joint or the solder is defective. Silver solder is supposed to melt at about 450 degrees. A wet coil shouldn't get more than 250F unless the voltage is really high.
My take on the problem is that the solder breaks down quickly, raising the resistance until it finally pops and dies.
I went through 10 heads in a row that died in a day. The problem was rising resistance over time until it got to about 4 ohms (on a 1.8 ohm head). I had to raise the voltage to compensate and finally they would die and read open when I hit 4.2v or so.
I've had this same problem with about 20 Kanger Aerotank heads and I have to suspect that there's a common manufacturing source involved. I have had Kanger dual coils and Kanger T3S heads do the same thing. BTW, I like the vapor and flavor from the Kanger T3S heads as much, maybe more than the Aerotank Mega DC heads, but with the bad head issues I may not have seen either at their best.
The funny part is that after going through about 20 or 30 heads that lasted from 2 hours to a day I finally hit one head that was the last one in a 5 pack that was fine. I've been vaping on this one 2 ohm head for almost 24 hours and it still reads 2.2 ohms and has great flavor.
The ones that burned out and read open suffered from a failed silver solder joint where the non resistive leads are soldered to the resistive coil at each end. It's definitely a design/fabrication issue. The solder joints are right next to either end of the coil, almost touching the coils themselves. IMO, there should he some distance away from the hot coil before the solder joint or the solder is defective. Silver solder is supposed to melt at about 450 degrees. A wet coil shouldn't get more than 250F unless the voltage is really high.
My take on the problem is that the solder breaks down quickly, raising the resistance until it finally pops and dies.
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I agree Dave, after reading your post I disected some of my old coils. My older pre-mfg coils have about 1/32" from the bottom of the coil to the nicely bonded legs. The newer coils have the leg joints so close to the coil that they are failing. All of the recently bad coils have a leg off, sorta like a drunk tin man with one leg. How you say made by sum ung guy.
While we're sorta on the subject mfs has coils 50% off prolly ending today. Use code "Halfprice". I have no interstate commerce going on so please don't bash on me for promoting it. I'm working for my friends here on ecf.
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