Batteries etc. for my new Magneto: Are My Choices Okay?

[AgentAnia]

I treated myself to a Magneto, my first mod. Would appreciate your evaluation of my choices for batteries etc. for this mod.

I'm a satisfied eGo/ProTank vaper, but want to have the mechanical as a "peace of mind" backup, just in case (and to be honest, also because I'm curious . Am not a vaping geek, not interested in sub-ohming, VW, or rebuilding attys and such. I am, though, concerned about safety (thank you, Baditude and other ECF battery gurus!) and reliability.

After reading numerous thread and blogs here about batteries, here are my selections:

Charger: http://rtdvapor.com/index.php/battery-chargers/nitecore-intellicharger-i2.html
Batteries: AW IMR 18350 3.7V 700mAh - Batteries
Fuse: Vape Safe Mod Fuse 2
Storage: Clear 18650-18350-CR123 Case
Safety: Safe Charging Bag

Am I on the right track here? Have I forgotten anything? TIA for your remarks/advice!

 

[Baditude]

All looks good!

You didn't say how many of the 18350 batteries you purchased. Understand that your results may vary depending upon your vape habits, but you'll only get several hours from a single 18350 battery. I'd suggest a minimum of 3 of these batteries to be used in rotation.

Good luck, and happy vaping!

 

[AgentAnia]

Thank you, Baditude! I haven't ordered anything yet. Am thinking I'll probably order 4 batteries (my "backups for backups" philosophy at work...). Am not too worried about the limited mAh on these batts*, since the Magneto will not (as planned right now) be my primary device. Should that change, I would then likely order a second (backup) charger and fuse as well.

Thought about going to 18650s, but I like the small size of the 18350-loaded mod.

 

[Orb Skewer]

Aww nice choose Ania, so this is what you forfeited a Provari for, I've heard the Magneto is a really good mod, and the batts and charging gear look like just what you need




(I heard the Provari "aint all that" anyway)

 

[Baditude]

(I heard the Provari "aint all that" anyway)

Blasthemy!!

​

 

[generic mutant]

I actually found the Magneto balances really well in the hand with 18650s. The telescopic tube sits in the crook of the thumb, and you can operate the button with the fingers - feels more natural to me than trying to use the little finger with a 'conventional' grip.

I have relatively small hands for a man (I assume you're female), so you might agree with me.

Anyway, not saying you've made a bad choice - just that it's worth giving the larger batteries a shot.

ETA - also, watch the PBusardo video if you haven't. The Magneto is a great mod, but does have a possible safety issue if you aren't paying attention. It's very easy to fix with a bit of loctite or similar (or you can just keep an eye out for the part loosening), but it's certainly worth being aware of.

 

[AgentAnia]

I actually found the Magneto balances really well in the hand with 18650s. The telescopic tube sits in the crook of the thumb, and you can operate the button with the fingers - feels more natural to me than trying to use the little finger with a 'conventional' grip.

I have relatively small hands for a man (I assume you're female), so you might agree with me.

Anyway, not saying you've made a bad choice - just that it's worth giving the larger batteries a shot.

ETA - also, watch the PBusardo video if you haven't. The Magneto is a great mod, but does have a possible safety issue if you aren't paying attention. It's very easy to fix with a bit of loctite or similar (or you can just keep an eye out for the part loosening), but it's certainly worth being aware of.

I did watch PBusardo's video, generic mutant, but good mention for others who may be interested. And yes, the first thing I did when I got the Magneto was fiddle with the locking ring to see what it felt like when it came loose.

I am a very small person with hands that are way small even for someone my size, so even the unextended tube, larger diameter than my eGos, is almost a two-hand job for me! But still, I haven't ruled out 18650s in the future. (One of the reasons I like the telescoping tube, for the flexibility).

 

[DrillRX]

I treated myself to a Magneto, my first mod. Would appreciate your evaluation of my choices for batteries etc. for this mod.

I'm a satisfied eGo/ProTank vaper, but want to have the mechanical as a "peace of mind" backup, just in case (and to be honest, also because I'm curious . Am not a vaping geek, not interested in sub-ohming, VW, or rebuilding attys and such. I am, though, concerned about safety (thank you, Baditude and other ECF battery gurus!) and reliability.

After reading numerous thread and blogs here about batteries, here are my selections:

Charger: http://rtdvapor.com/index.php/battery-chargers/nitecore-intellicharger-i2.html
Batteries: AW IMR 18350 3.7V 700mAh - Batteries
Fuse: Vape Safe Mod Fuse 2
Storage: Clear 18650-18350-CR123 Case
Safety: Safe Charging Bag

Am I on the right track here? Have I forgotten anything? TIA for your remarks/advice!

I have the magneto and the clone of it, the "wooliston". For some reason, not sure why, I like the wooliston better (aside from the difference in price). I think it just looks better with the drip atty's i'm used to using.

MNKE IMR 18650 batteries would be a good choice and you could pretty much forget the fuse unless you use pro tanks or some vivi tanks and maybe some others i'm not accustom to (the wooliston and the magneto have larger center positive pins that could short out on such tanks if the center post on the tank does not protrude from the threads.

Just a note on both of the mods. Your tank and or atty might not sit flush on the top cap. There is a way to correct this. Although the positive post does not "float", the delrin ring the post sits in does. Make sure the "nut" is tight on the pos post in the top cap, and when you install your tank or whatever, screw it down flush before installing the top cap on the mod. then install the battery and screw the top cap on until snug.

Another note on the two.

Make sure to take off the bottom button and tighten the threads on the bottom magnet. It will eventually unscrew from using the lock ring and leave the mod in the on position, creating a full on condition, burning out your atty or overheating your battery.

 

[generic mutant]

Well, if you have it in your (dainty) hands already, apart from the weighting, you can probably figure it out

With a Kamry fuse (which is something like 3mm deep) and an AW IMR 18650, I can see about 2-3 lines of thread on either end of the telescopic tube (it's a bit hard to tell, because I've ghetto-rubberised said tube with a road racer bicycle inner tube - worth doing if you hold it like I do, though I won't lie to you, it's a complete pain in the rear to get it on).

Neither of mine wobble like that either, for what it's worth.

 

[generic mutant]

The only other thing I might add is that from my research, the safety of 'charging bags' is highly disputed.

They trap heat, and that isn't good.

You might be better off just using a biscuit tin (leave the lid off - unless you want to get clever about it and cut holes for ventilation and the cables. It's fire proof, has high edges to prevent spitting material from shooting around the place, and should at least slow a fire from hitting your carpet for long enough for you to unplug everything and douse), having a big bottle of water handy (apparently reckoned at least as effective as fire extinguishers *) and paying attention while you're charging.

* Safety Concerns with Li-ion Batteries
http://www.hemmingfire.com/news/ful...ging_the_lithium__ion__battery_fire_risk.html [note that this seems to be mostly discussing lithium cobalt batteries, far more common than the safer-chemistry batteries you've very sensibly chosen. You don't have the risk of explosion, but some of the logic probably still applies]

 

[AgentAnia]

....MNKE IMR 18650 batteries would be a good choice and you could pretty much forget the fuse unless you use pro tanks or some vivi tanks and maybe some others i'm not accustom to (the wooliston and the magneto have larger center positive pins that could short out on such tanks if the center post on the tank does not protrude from the threads.

Just a note on both of the mods. Your tank and or atty might not sit flush on the top cap. There is a way to correct this. Although the positive post does not "float", the delrin ring the post sits in does. Make sure the "nut" is tight on the pos post in the top cap, and when you install your tank or whatever, screw it down flush before installing the top cap on the mod. then install the battery and screw the top cap on until snug.

Another note on the two.

Make sure to take off the bottom button and tighten the threads on the bottom magnet. It will eventually unscrew from using the lock ring and leave the mod in the on position, creating a full on condition, burning out your atty or overheating your battery.

Thanks for the tips, DrillRX. I do use ProTanks, the mini, (already have a 510-to-eGo adapter), so think I'll stick with a fuse, for safety's sake.

The only other thing I might add is that from my research, the safety of 'charging bags' is highly disputed.

They trap heat, and that isn't good.

You might be better off just using a biscuit tin (leave the lid off - unless you want to get clever about it and cut holes for ventilation and the cables. It's fire proof, has high edges to prevent spitting material from shooting around the place, and should at least slow a fire from hitting your carpet for long enough for you to unplug everything and douse), having a big bottle of water handy (apparently reckoned at least as effective as fire extinguishers *) and paying attention while you're charging.

* Safety Concerns with Li-ion Batteries
Managing the lithium (ion) battery fire risk - Industrial Fire Journal - Fire & Rescue - Hemming Group Ltd [note that this seems to be mostly discussing lithium cobalt batteries, far more common than the safer-chemistry batteries you've very sensibly chosen. You don't have the risk of explosion, but some of the logic probably still applies]

Thanks for the link, generic, and I'm so glad you said that! RTD has everthing in stock *except* the charging bag, and judging by your description, I'll be okay without it. I do my charging in an unused bathroom, no carpeting, tile all around, and it's just a few steps to the sink in case of meltdown (but not so close it might get splashed by accident and zzzzzzzzt) Also, I never charge batteries when I'm not around.

 

[Traver]

Just a question if I may. How do you know when to take the batteries out and recharge them?

 

[AgentAnia]

Just a question if I may. How do you know when to take the batteries out and recharge them?

Good question! I've been assuming it would be the same as with any ecig battery: when you notice the vapor falling off... But I'd appreciate hearing from the gurus if there's another/better/cleverer way...

 

[DrillRX]

Just a question if I may. How do you know when to take the batteries out and recharge them?

It's kind of like driving a car without a fuel gauge. You test, day by day, how long the battery will last until you get accustomed to your setup. Keep an extra battery with you for a little while and it will become apparent how long. There's no formula because of the different user habits and hundreds if not thousands of different variable like ohms, mod leaching, usage, etc.

 

[generic mutant]

You'd have to be a complete numpty to run a battery to a dangerously low level on a mech.

It'll stop performing properly at ~3.5 volts at the lowest. But you want to switch it much higher than that. You have to train yourself to spot it falling at first - which is the valid point that Traver raises: if you don't have any frame of reference, how the heck are you gonna know..?

Might be worth investing in a Vamo. I've got one I use for building coils and testing batteries. £20 from Health Cabin, and it does the job...

You can use a multimeter too, but you shouldn't just short it through the multimeter - you'd need a sensible protocol to do it safely (not really difficult, if you have something you can use as resistance. You'll find lots of guides saying 'just wire it up to the multimeter' Its a ~10 amp battery, and that's a lot of power - the wrong setting and you have a real problem. More sensible to wire it up to something with a known high resistance and a fuse, and test it there. A cheap mod suffices).

 

[Traver]

You'd have to be a complete numpty to run a battery to a dangerously low level on a mech.

It'll stop performing properly at ~3.5 volts at the lowest. But you want to switch it much higher than that. You have to train yourself to spot it falling at first - which is the valid point that Traver raises: if you don't have any frame of reference, how the heck are you gonna know..?

Might be worth investing in a Vamo. I've got one I use for building coils and testing batteries. £20 from Health Cabin, and it does the job...

You can use a multimeter too, but you shouldn't just short it through the multimeter - you'd need a sensible protocol to do it safely (not really difficult, if you have something you can use as resistance. You'll find lots of guides saying 'just wire it up to the multimeter' Its a ~10 amp battery, and that's a lot of power - the wrong setting and you have a real problem. More sensible to wire it up to something with a known high resistance and a fuse, and test it there. A cheap mod suffices).

What would happen if had it on the wrong setting? Nothing ever happened with my multimeters but I don't think I ever tried on one of those $10 ones. These days I get the low reading on my charger when I put it on for charging and the high reading when it is charged and I take it off.

For the OP if you do use a multimeter you should let the battery rest a few minutes before testing it. A battery that was just used may give a low reading. After resting a few minutes you will get the true battery voltage.

 

[generic mutant]

I freely admit, I'm an electriwhachamacalit numpty.

But if you plug a battery into a multimeter with the wrong setting, aren't you unleashing its full discharge?

I've heard stories about people making them uncomfortably hot doing that. I'm not saying "it won't work". I'm just saying "it's a bad idea". If I am wrong, please correct me.

 

[Traver]

I freely admit, I'm an electriwhachamacalit numpty.

But if you plug a battery into a multimeter with the wrong setting, aren't you unleashing its full discharge?

I've heard stories about people making them uncomfortably hot doing that. I'm not saying "it won't work". I'm just saying "it's a bad idea". If I am wrong, please correct me.

I think plugging is the wrong terminology. You firmly hold one lead to one end of the battery and touch the other end withe the other lead. If you are watching the meter you will immediately know if you if your setting is way off. The needle will either go crazy or it will barely move.

I would like to hear other opinions. They are just tools to me and and I don't know much about multimeter s.

 

[Orb Skewer]

It's kind of like driving a car without a fuel gauge. You test, day by day, how long the battery will last until you get accustomed to your setup. Keep an extra battery with you for a little while and it will become apparent how long. There's no formula because of the different user habits and hundreds if not thousands of different variable like ohms, mod leaching, usage, etc.

^what he said^

 

[AgentAnia]

OP here. Now see, as I said, I'm an eGo-loving numpty. Multimeters are not in my future. The only meters I deal with are water, electric, and thermo. As the batteries I ordered last night (AW 18350) are 700 mAh, I'll just be sure to rotate them every few hours.

Thanks, Traver, for the "rest period" reminder. It reminded me that I've read it's good to let the batteries sit for a time when they come off the charger, before using them.

I now have a nice package coming from RTD, and I'm mech'd! You people are the best!