Batteries question for my reo
- Thread starter Kiznar
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I don't have a prefered way to hold my Reo... Depends on how I pick it up. If my thumb is near the trigger I use that, if my index finger is by the trigger, I use that. I'm left handed, so if it's in my right hand I detonate with my thumb 
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Hmm...
Maybe I am babying the button too much; my first flat tops were Efests, and they arced so bad that I melted a button. Seriously melted a button. But my VTC4s arc pretty seriously too, within hours of Noaloxing, and I doubt that they're fake; they're pretty stinking old. But then again, it's *possible* that my AWs arc like the Sonys do (it'd be marginally less visible, since the button is partly hidden by the delrin connection cover). Now I'm second-guessing myself...
Well, crap.
Maybe I am babying the button too much; my first flat tops were Efests, and they arced so bad that I melted a button. Seriously melted a button. But my VTC4s arc pretty seriously too, within hours of Noaloxing, and I doubt that they're fake; they're pretty stinking old. But then again, it's *possible* that my AWs arc like the Sonys do (it'd be marginally less visible, since the button is partly hidden by the delrin connection cover). Now I'm second-guessing myself...
Well, crap.
All batteries will arc. In order to run 0.2Ωcoils on a Reo for any period you will likely need to clean and mess with your contacts (even the new ones - the gold ones) more than you prefer.
I've melted all the buttons, even the new PEEK ones, such that the firing pin is embedded in the button!
hehehe!
I modify all my Reo buttons now by attaching sacrificial metal to them, whether that's by drilling a pilot hole and putting a small screw in there (better), or by epoxying a rivet head on top. If you do something like this with a TRA Reo, i suggest you research the chances of it shorting to the side of the mod.
But i have done this for over a year with no issues on a powder coated black Grand.
It looks something like this - file down ruined button and off you go. L-R, pull rivet apart, upside down top, painted top, epoxied on button. Painting the tops is a waste a time, even with high temp. paint, but i was picky back then.
T
I've melted all the buttons, even the new PEEK ones, such that the firing pin is embedded in the button!
hehehe!
I modify all my Reo buttons now by attaching sacrificial metal to them, whether that's by drilling a pilot hole and putting a small screw in there (better), or by epoxying a rivet head on top. If you do something like this with a TRA Reo, i suggest you research the chances of it shorting to the side of the mod.
But i have done this for over a year with no issues on a powder coated black Grand.
It looks something like this - file down ruined button and off you go. L-R, pull rivet apart, upside down top, painted top, epoxied on button. Painting the tops is a waste a time, even with high temp. paint, but i was picky back then.
T
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Maybe your batteries are heavily oxidized. Take some high grit sandpaper (at least 1500) and buff the positive contacts on your batteries. They will shine like you haven't seen in a pretty stinking long time. Heavy oxidization will cause arcing.
I remember the first time I saw your thread about this way back when. I think it was sometime between melting my 4th and 5th buttons. I have also melted a couple of the new ones, but silicon is my DOT as mentioned earlier. Good stuff, ST.
I'm gentile with my button, but firm. I push it down enough to make good contact, but not to force the battery down to compress the spring further. But again, I'm rarely in .5 on my Reo builds.
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It has been a while since I last sanded my Sonys - good idea.
I'll have to try out ST's rivet fix - pretty slick. Glad I'm not the only one melting buttons - I really need to spend more time here...
Thanks, guys!
I'll have to try out ST's rivet fix - pretty slick. Glad I'm not the only one melting buttons - I really need to spend more time here...
Thanks, guys!
With sub-ohming, plastic buttons are going to melt if there is any arcing. It's just natural. Arcing produces excessive amounts of heat. In industrial equipment, arcing can cause temperatures of up to 35,000° F. Maybe we should start a petition begging the man himself for either ceramic or glass buttons, or perhaps just a ceramic plate to glue or fit to the bottom.
Hey Rob, insert input [here].
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