with the galileo, you can use pretty much any adapter or connector. you just seat it, and tighten it using 3 screws that come in from the sides. it is really nice.
Battery connector failures
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I am going to send the connector drawings to my uncle and see what he says. In the meantime I will put up a screen shot of the drawing when I get the puter up and running.
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It will use a plastic shoulder spacer for the insulator and either a solid or hollow center pin on request. To seal the connector from the mod to keep juice infiltration down you would probably want to glue the insulator and center pin into place.
Not really crucial..but you might want to put a small chamfer or radius on some of the corners...any time you have a sharp corner it is a potential fracture/tear point. It will make assembly easier also. For the insulator I would go with Teflon for heat and pressure durability.
This is what I am talking about...
i don't know if this is oversight or not, but that center post, would be really difficult to solder to.
Not criticizing, just my observation. it may also change the cost, if this is what you are showing the machinist.
And regarding if it is sealed or not, i would say just make them all unsealed. the users that would be purchasing these connectors would most likely be able to seal it up themselves with solder, by connecting the center contract wire within the hole itself.
this would keep you from having to do two different sets of connectors...
just my
Something like this would be good for the modders, but it will be really difficult to get the big e-cig manufactures to use this as a standard for larger PV's.
Good luck & a free bump for awareness
Not criticizing, just my observation. it may also change the cost, if this is what you are showing the machinist.
And regarding if it is sealed or not, i would say just make them all unsealed. the users that would be purchasing these connectors would most likely be able to seal it up themselves with solder, by connecting the center contract wire within the hole itself.
this would keep you from having to do two different sets of connectors...
just my
Something like this would be good for the modders, but it will be really difficult to get the big e-cig manufactures to use this as a standard for larger PV's.
Good luck & a free bump for awareness
Yeah your right Buzz...for a sealed connector it would be great..solder the wire on and slide it thru the insulator and that whole connection would be well protected....but for those that need the airway it wont work. Quite a few ways to do it though...simplest being to make the center longer and/or make the end of the connector hollow like the way they are now.
I rushed my post, but i may have deleted the part that said to make the post longer for the ones that wanted to keep that airway.
but you made the point.
Sorry for the delay in replying,
I will have to look up the material of the center insulator. I can't remember if it is teflon or PTFE. Either should work fine however.
I will add the champher to the hole, that is a good idea. The insulator itself will not be however as it will be a McMaster Carr item.
The center post being longer is a good idea. I will probably also make sure the over all length matches the insulator so that there is no overlap. The reason for the two types of center post will be because I personally want a solid top on the center pin but I know a lot of people will want to be able to do a bottom feeder. I just need an idea of the diameter hole needed for bottom feeder applications.
The internal threads will start pretty much right at the top and only have a small thread relief at the bottom. I will also be putting a small champher at the top. I think I will also need to put a couple of air slots in the top edge. This will probably up the cost a dollar or so as it will require a secondary process to complete. Still thinking that one over. Maybe just let the installer hit the edge with a dremel to open it up if needed for their application.
I was thinking of incorporating an integral drip cup into the top flair but I need input on whether that would be something people would want. I think it would add to the look of it but may not be practical for all mods.
I will have to look up the material of the center insulator. I can't remember if it is teflon or PTFE. Either should work fine however.
I will add the champher to the hole, that is a good idea. The insulator itself will not be however as it will be a McMaster Carr item.
The center post being longer is a good idea. I will probably also make sure the over all length matches the insulator so that there is no overlap. The reason for the two types of center post will be because I personally want a solid top on the center pin but I know a lot of people will want to be able to do a bottom feeder. I just need an idea of the diameter hole needed for bottom feeder applications.
The internal threads will start pretty much right at the top and only have a small thread relief at the bottom. I will also be putting a small champher at the top. I think I will also need to put a couple of air slots in the top edge. This will probably up the cost a dollar or so as it will require a secondary process to complete. Still thinking that one over. Maybe just let the installer hit the edge with a dremel to open it up if needed for their application.
I was thinking of incorporating an integral drip cup into the top flair but I need input on whether that would be something people would want. I think it would add to the look of it but may not be practical for all mods.
I would not mind having to pay even $20 each, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Our mods are only as strong as the connectors/surrounding area. I would most definitely NOT mind a drip cup
You may want to explain to your machinist about the threads being the important part. Also what % of thread and class of threads they will be able to do...you want at least a Class 2B or otherwise you end up with expensive junk. It would be best to give them several junk attys to be able to check them with.
Also if your threads start from the very end you will be closing off the hole in the atty/carto when its turned in...you want to keep that pilot hole about the same as a regular connector. It also makes for cleaner and stronger threading and helps the user get it lined up without cross-threading....bottom doesnt matter as long as the threads go slightly deeper than the attys can go.
Also if your threads start from the very end you will be closing off the hole in the atty/carto when its turned in...you want to keep that pilot hole about the same as a regular connector. It also makes for cleaner and stronger threading and helps the user get it lined up without cross-threading....bottom doesnt matter as long as the threads go slightly deeper than the attys can go.
My uncle told me to get back to him with all of the changes and then he will look over the drawings and give me an estimate. Last time I had him look at something it changed about 20 times and he doesn't want to go through that again.....
More than I want to know about threads, I will leave that up to him, He already has a collection of carto's to play with from a previous project I had him look at. Plus he is very exacting and usually will catch more things than I would have ever considered. I will even be leaving him the botom of my GTUS for a short time (very short) for a test fit.
Screws
How much of a thread relief should I put at the top? Just enough to clear the air hole? Most of mine actually sit right at the top of the connector unless they are torqued down tighter than needed...
My uncle told me to get back to him with all of the changes and then he will look over the drawings and give me an estimate. Last time I had him look at something it changed about 20 times and he doesn't want to go through that again.....
More than I want to know about threads, I will leave that up to him, He already has a collection of carto's to play with from a previous project I had him look at. Plus he is very exacting and usually will catch more things than I would have ever considered. I will even be leaving him the botom of my GTUS for a short time (very short) for a test fit.
Screws
How much of a thread relief should I put at the top? Just enough to clear the air hole? Most of mine actually sit right at the top of the connector unless they are torqued down tighter than needed...
I measured about .060" deep for the relief...maybe you guys want more or less though.
I dont use threaded connectors anymore so I'll bow out now...just wanted to give you some feedback from a former machinist viewpoint....plus you and your uncle should know what to do.
A built-in catch cup would be nice. A wide nut or thin washer behind it would provide excellent support for heavy atomizers.
In my case, I would prefer a cup deep enough to allow nothing to protrude past the nut on the inside. For me, I need the back side flush with the nut. That's assuming a 1/16" mod enclosure wall and room for a washer.
8 or even 9mm threads on the mounting nut would be fine for me. Would work well considering the added width of the catch cup. That would allow the 7mm threads for the atomizer connector to recess a bit making the overall length shorter.
In my case, I would prefer a cup deep enough to allow nothing to protrude past the nut on the inside. For me, I need the back side flush with the nut. That's assuming a 1/16" mod enclosure wall and room for a washer.
8 or even 9mm threads on the mounting nut would be fine for me. Would work well considering the added width of the catch cup. That would allow the 7mm threads for the atomizer connector to recess a bit making the overall length shorter.
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This is my attempt at making this in inventor. My skills are limited at the moment and I'm just getting a feel for the program. As far as the right way of sketching and going about building the part, still learning For example, after I realized the drip cup walls are really high I had already created another sketch off THAT extrusion so editing the original extrusion breaks the sketch below it because it screws with the axis'. It sure does render nice though
For example, after I realized the drip cup walls are really high I had already created another sketch off THAT extrusion so editing the original extrusion breaks the sketch below it because it screws with the axis'. It sure does render nice though
We can't have the inner connector recessed however as many use tanks and Genesis mods that would then require an adapter.
Also another issue would be the secondary machine work needed to make the grooves for that thing. One of the things I am trying to do is keep the amount of secondary milling down as much as possible so if these ever do get produced they wont take months to get back =] It will be a two man shop turning these out in between their regular orders.
I guess I have a completely personal thing against the connector sticking up any more than absolutely necessary as I almost exclusively use Genesis mods that are fairly long to start with. Having said that, if that is what it takes to get more of them produced then that would be the way to go.
Also another issue would be the secondary machine work needed to make the grooves for that thing. One of the things I am trying to do is keep the amount of secondary milling down as much as possible so if these ever do get produced they wont take months to get back =] It will be a two man shop turning these out in between their regular orders.
I guess I have a completely personal thing against the connector sticking up any more than absolutely necessary as I almost exclusively use Genesis mods that are fairly long to start with. Having said that, if that is what it takes to get more of them produced then that would be the way to go.
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For anyone that would prefer to have it stood up so that the bottom portion sicks into the mod less, I can trim some of the length off. In fact I have done that on my main drawing already. I am looking as SS spacers in McMaster Carr now to see what diameters they have so it could be stood off with an inexpensive solution giving us more versatility in how they are used.
Bstedh, I am strongly in favor of your last two points, flatter and wider are both good for me. I would even like the outer edge of the drip cup not tapered and and even 13mm.
Yea, I am thinking of dropping the whole drip cup idea and going to a 2mm flange. This would allow a drip cup to be added to it as an add on that could be placed on it as a washer type setup. Like the current finishing washers are used.
KISS....
I am also looking at making the center pin wider but I am limited by what is available for insulators. Still doing some research. I hope to find an item I can re-purpose as a center pin to bring cost down more but am drawing blanks at to what could be used and still have the hollow center for bottom feeders. Otherwise welding pins or finishing pins may be a good choice.
Looking, looking, looking.......
KISS....
I am also looking at making the center pin wider but I am limited by what is available for insulators. Still doing some research. I hope to find an item I can re-purpose as a center pin to bring cost down more but am drawing blanks at to what could be used and still have the hollow center for bottom feeders. Otherwise welding pins or finishing pins may be a good choice.
Looking, looking, looking.......
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