Maybe a smaller version of the insulator (mcmaster) made in brass. I don't recall if that was a bushing or flange or what.
Battery connector failures
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That sounds good to me. Offer two different flanges for it. A one piece design would be nice, but a separate part makes it most flexible. A thin flange brings threads deeper into the mod for minimal protrusion and a fat flange provides a flush mount behind the connector.
A good insulator material for the center connector would be Delrin plastic. It's machinable and strong. Use a press fit.
For the center pin, a brass rivet might work.
A good insulator material for the center connector would be Delrin plastic. It's machinable and strong. Use a press fit.
For the center pin, a brass rivet might work.
McMaster-Carr
This is where I am looking for insulators and what the connector dimensions are based around. The fun part is finding both a center pin and insulator that will work together. If we can keep the machine work to just the main body the better the cost will be.
This is where I am looking for insulators and what the connector dimensions are based around. The fun part is finding both a center pin and insulator that will work together. If we can keep the machine work to just the main body the better the cost will be.
Try copper pop rivets for a center.
EDIT...oops...forgot...may be in contact with juice.....skip that one!!
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i found some good candidates for solid centers but not much that would work for a bottom feeder. I was thinking of re-use of existing centers but they are not long enough without using the same insulator method which I wan't to get away from.
May just need to machine the center pin per the original plan.
I have to drive up north for work tomorrow so I will stop by the machine shop with what I have so far and see if my uncle has any ideas. Plus I should get a base line for what these might cost.
May just need to machine the center pin per the original plan.
I have to drive up north for work tomorrow so I will stop by the machine shop with what I have so far and see if my uncle has any ideas. Plus I should get a base line for what these might cost.
I love the creativity this thread has inspired. These ideas could be incorporated into future mods and DIYs but how do we retrofit all the equipment we have already invested so much money in.
I think mods should all be designed to be user serviceable to the greatest extent possible.
I wish Provape would make a user serviceable Provari so if the Booster Chip dies you just unscrew and R & R the top cap with a new 510 connector. Also a slide out booster chip could also be removed and replaced. This way I would not have to send my unit in for service. It would spare the manufacturer the headache of unprofitable repairs and with spare parts in stock I could be back up and running in minutes rather than days or weeks.
This should be the direction the modding companies should go as it would boost repeat sales to existing customers seeking a newer self serviceable model.
Then if a better booster chip comes to market, I just buy the chip and upgrade my existing unit.
Manufacturers need to recognize that many of us are very handy tinkerers.
It would also get us ahead of the Chinese who as we know are now duplicating our innovations and selling cheap cheap.
I think mods should all be designed to be user serviceable to the greatest extent possible.
I wish Provape would make a user serviceable Provari so if the Booster Chip dies you just unscrew and R & R the top cap with a new 510 connector. Also a slide out booster chip could also be removed and replaced. This way I would not have to send my unit in for service. It would spare the manufacturer the headache of unprofitable repairs and with spare parts in stock I could be back up and running in minutes rather than days or weeks.
This should be the direction the modding companies should go as it would boost repeat sales to existing customers seeking a newer self serviceable model.
Then if a better booster chip comes to market, I just buy the chip and upgrade my existing unit.
Manufacturers need to recognize that many of us are very handy tinkerers.
It would also get us ahead of the Chinese who as we know are now duplicating our innovations and selling cheap cheap.
=] There you go, you just found your niche for your own vape company...... Build it and they will come.....
Not hollow =] would work great for me but those bottom feeders out there wouldn't be happy.....
If the connector came UN-assembled w/ two style center pins ...?? solid and hollow ... ?? or maybe a choice of center pins.
They are easy enough to pop in...
They are easy enough to pop in...
I sat down and talked with my uncle today and came up with a new twist on how to make these.
We will take a piece of SS 3/8" fine thread rod and then turn down the inner threads and center hole. Then, two nuts can be used top and bottom for the shoulders.
This will allow a wide range of install possibilities. You can set your depth or recess as you see fit and you can choose a different thickness of nut or spacer for how much you would like it to stand off.
Using a standard thread outside like this opens up the possibilities for using items in the hardware-store for modifications. Plus it will cut the final cost in half as the outer threads will not have to be machined.
I still have not found a good candidate for the hollow center pin. It may just need to be turned out of brass and drilled out.
I will put together some new drawings to get to the shop to get an initial estimate on cost.
We will take a piece of SS 3/8" fine thread rod and then turn down the inner threads and center hole. Then, two nuts can be used top and bottom for the shoulders.
This will allow a wide range of install possibilities. You can set your depth or recess as you see fit and you can choose a different thickness of nut or spacer for how much you would like it to stand off.
Using a standard thread outside like this opens up the possibilities for using items in the hardware-store for modifications. Plus it will cut the final cost in half as the outer threads will not have to be machined.
I still have not found a good candidate for the hollow center pin. It may just need to be turned out of brass and drilled out.
I will put together some new drawings to get to the shop to get an initial estimate on cost.
Still need to know what an ideal center pin hole will be for a bottom feeder to finish up the drawings.
Maybe even the center pin can be threaded as well, then use two viton o-rings to seal it from the top and maybe shrink wrap around it as well..
Perhaps by using a slotted panheaded screw, grind down the top to flatten it a little then we'd even have one that has slits on it like the reo's connector. To just have a hole on a flat surface could restrict airflow a bit so that would be good. If a hole could be machined through the middle, use a nylon nut on the other side... just throwing it out there.
Perhaps by using a slotted panheaded screw, grind down the top to flatten it a little then we'd even have one that has slits on it like the reo's connector. To just have a hole on a flat surface could restrict airflow a bit so that would be good. If a hole could be machined through the middle, use a nylon nut on the other side... just throwing it out there.
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I have been looking all over for thin nuts but have been unable to find any thin enough for my liking. The thinnest I have found so far in 3/8"-24 is .219"
I am trying to find the kind that you would find as retaining nuts on switches but have been unable to find anything. Anybody else have any ideas?
Here is a drawing showing the fit of everything so far with the .219" thick nuts.
I am trying to find the kind that you would find as retaining nuts on switches but have been unable to find anything. Anybody else have any ideas?
Here is a drawing showing the fit of everything so far with the .219" thick nuts.
Well I found what I was looking for. A little more expensive than I was hopping however.
Panel Nuts fit the bill but SS are 2.60 each and nickle plated brass are 1.65 for a 10 pack.
Also I have to change the threaded rod to 3/8"X32.
Do you think a Zinc finish nut would look ok? I can get them at .10 each
Edit: 3/8"X32 is standard for coax F connectors found in every home.... The search is on.
I am liking this idea... it opens up the possibilities of re-purposing F connectors in custom atty design like has been done for RCA connectors.
Panel Nuts fit the bill but SS are 2.60 each and nickle plated brass are 1.65 for a 10 pack.
Also I have to change the threaded rod to 3/8"X32.
Do you think a Zinc finish nut would look ok? I can get them at .10 each
Edit: 3/8"X32 is standard for coax F connectors found in every home.... The search is on.
I am liking this idea... it opens up the possibilities of re-purposing F connectors in custom atty design like has been done for RCA connectors.
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Nickel plated brass would be ideal. It's really easy to solder. You'd have to solder the negative lead to the nut since the connector body is SS. The outer nut could be SS or anything else that looks okay.
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