Battery Voltages -- Surprise!

[Kent C]

Hey there Kent. It's beginning to look like old timer's day on this thread, heheh.

The pass-through version doesn't have the bar graph, but of course it's not needed while used as such. I suppose it's about the same length though, because that space is used for the mini USB plug. When fully charged and plugged in, it puts out somewhat more than 3.7 volts, which may be a tad above the voltage of the battery version.

Somehow I doubt if they will fix the plastic band anytime soon, but let's hope I'm wrong.

Hey BR... old timers for sure I have the Joye eGo passthrough - just lost one this week - mini usb wouldn't hold but I've had it a while and it got a lot of use in the car..... I thought even the Joye ran a bit hotter than the regular Joye's but not like an SE Riva. After my 'reluctance' above, I saw a good price on a vv regular with the bar graph and popped for it Hey, you know how that goes. lol. I also received some DCCE eGo size from madvapes - to try - Scott's nudge on that helped but I'm having good luck with most of my eGo-ts at this point. The soft caps help stem the few leaks that had developed after close to a year now on some tanks.

Hopefully I won't have problems with the plastic band on the one coming but at least I have a heads up on it.

 

[Kent C]

Old timer's day?

I hope the wife doesn't see the one with the bar graph. I was constantly re-gluing the DSE-905s she sat on until I just quit buying more of them.
I assume the flashy ring is about as strong.
Is the lowest setting vapable? (I know the 5 volt folks are laughing at this one).

Rocky

(not as old as you )

Rocky.... I have some DV ejuice - black currant, that could use the lower volt rate than even with the eGo batts, so I'm looking forward to see how that works. My DV 'real tabs' holds up well to the SE Rivas - all other ejuices do well on the eGo Batts. Looking forward to trying it out with the various ejuices - it's something that isn't mentioned much but the flavor has much to do with what wattage one is at. I've 'discarded' some ejuices only to pick them up later at either a lower or higher wattage. Almost all coffee flavors like 8W or more, I've found. Fruit flavors begin to lose punch at anything over 6W's sometimes lower....

 

[Rocketman]

Oh, I'm a low voltage vaper. I like Really big battery 3.7 volt mods but mainly for the battery life.

I've always just avoided higher voltage. The LOW range might just fit in with my wife's style. She uses a pile of 900mah eGos and thinks 3.7 from a mod is to much (even with 3.2 ohms).
I find the several variations of Dual Coils nice, she doesn't like the large diameter ones.
(no comments please)
We both typically vape the same juice over and over (how boring is that ) and it's sort of fruity (cherry, redbull, with a touch of RY4).

 

[Kent C]

Oh, I'm a low voltage vaper. I like Really big battery 3.7 volt mods but mainly for the battery life.

I've always just avoided higher voltage. The LOW range might just fit in with my wife's style. She uses a pile of 900mah eGos and thinks 3.7 from a mod is to much (even with 3.2 ohms).
I find the several variations of Dual Coils nice, she doesn't like the large diameter ones.
(no comments please)
We both typically vape the same juice over and over (how boring is that ) and it's sort of fruity (cherry, redbull, with a touch of RY4).

I tend to vape higher but look back to the days when RY4 tasted really good on an 801. I still have some of the old Janty/Joye RY4 which was much different than most - piney, smokey.... Cherry, depending on the maker can be all over the place wattage wise though. Some earlier versions were outright dreadful to me anyway.

 

[DaveP]

I saw a video on youtube about the new battery with the LED bar graph on it. I'm thinking that it's not a PWM mode regulator since the bar graph wouldn't change in 3.4v eGo mode if it were. That's a good thing. That would leave a linear regulator or a resistor array to deliver the two lower voltages. Now, I'm curious. What's inside this thing?

 

[Rocketman]

If you went inside the eGo and measured the cell voltage then it's measuring loaded cell voltage.
Probably a GOOD indicator of charge. Measuring AFTER the PWM circuit wouldn't change much.

 

[JW50]

Thanks br.

...

(I found that once an eGo cuts off you can fool it by charging for about a minute and can take a reading then).

...

I think much less than one minute necessary. 10 seconds or so I think is usually enough.

 

[Rocketman]

JW, you are right but to fire it up and take a loaded reading maybe 11 sec
What I'm looking for (without actually buying one) is the average volts at full charge and as close to cutoff as possible.

Since we obviously don't know the Duty Cycle and Peak voltage there's nothing I can do with that info.
(had to say that to keep the equation freaks at bay )

But, I probably could extrapolate the starting duty cycle on the LOW range from those values.

 

[JW50]

JW, you are right but to fire it up and take a loaded reading maybe 11 sec
What I'm looking for (without actually buying one) is the average volts at full charge and as close to cutoff as possible.

Since we obviously don't know the Duty Cycle and Peak voltage there's nothing I can do with that info.
(had to say that to keep the equation freaks at bay )

But, I probably could extrapolate the starting duty cycle on the LOW range from those values.

This link may give you some help in the estimates: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...atts-cone-5-tc-clearomizers-stock-now-23.html

I think what the so called variable voltage battery is doing is giving a fixed duty at each "voltage". Duty close to 100% at high, lesser at medium and even lesser at low. Voltage fades in each selection into discharge cycle just like a Riva and just like peak voltage on an eGo. Not as magical as the eGo. At least - IMO. Can get same result of the variable PWM - fixed duty - with change of ohms on atty with a Riva or an e-power, etc. Possibly a variable PWM - fixed duty - batt might help with an atty that changes ohms with use. The variable PWM - fixed duty - batts seem pricey to me for what one gets. But, for me, that LED showing level of charge, not a big deal.

 

[JW50]

I saw a video on youtube about the new battery with the LED bar graph on it. I'm thinking that it's not a PWM mode regulator since the bar graph wouldn't change in 3.4v eGo mode if it were. That's a good thing. That would leave a linear regulator or a resistor array to deliver the two lower voltages. Now, I'm curious. What's inside this thing?

Is LED bar showing voltage or amount of charge (capacity remaining)?

PS - Reducing average voltage by reducing duty, I think, would not be either reduction by linear regulator or a resistor array.

 

[br5495]

Thanks br.

See if you can get a voltage reading on the LOW range fresh off the charger and just before cut off.

.

I don't know if the circuit in the pass-through version is the same as the battery version, so my measurements may not apply to both types.

A meter was connected to the PV for the entire test. Shortly after the USB cable was unplugged, the voltage began dropping from 2.8 volts. It continued to drop until shut off, just like any unregulated battery would do. As it dropped, my draws became longer to compensate. I could tell that the battery was about to shut down when it dropped to about 2 volts. At that time, I switched to the high range, which gave a reading of about 3.0 volts. Switching back to the low range gave a reading of 1.99 volts. At this point, the LED inside the cartomizer became dim and the vapor was very weak. The battery was shut down when the next draw was attempted.

I was laying in bed and watching TV while all this was going on, and regret so say that I did not record the time it took to discharge the battery. If I had to make a wild guess though, I'd say that it was about 5 hours.

 

[DaveP]

I'm thinking that the LED bar graph is physically connected inside the cell before the regulator board, but through the switch so that the LED bar graph comes on when you vape. That way, it would show you the actual voltage of the cell over time. Capacity is the ability of a cell to deliver voltage to a load over time. In an eGo, as we vape, the pulse width of the voltage is changed to provide the same effective average voltage to the load.

In this battery, the 4.2v setting is full duty cycle. The other levels would be reduced pulse duty cycle to provide a pulsed voltage that your meter reads as a steady average voltage. The led indicator would have to be reading the actual voltage the battery is producing to give you the state of the battery itself, since PWM would vary through the battery's cycle.

 

[br5495]

Hey BR... old timers for sure I have the Joye eGo passthrough - just lost one this week - mini usb wouldn't hold but I've had it a while and it got a lot of use in the car..... I thought even the Joye ran a bit hotter than the regular Joye's but not like an SE Riva. After my 'reluctance' above, I saw a good price on a vv regular with the bar graph and popped for it Hey, you know how that goes. lol. I also received some DCCE eGo size from madvapes - to try - Scott's nudge on that helped but I'm having good luck with most of my eGo-ts at this point. The soft caps help stem the few leaks that had developed after close to a year now on some tanks.

Hopefully I won't have problems with the plastic band on the one coming but at least I have a heads up on it.

I had an eGo pass-through up until recently, but zapped it when I accidentally shorted the output during a test. I replaced it with the fancy one I have now. Like yours, mine ran a bit hotter than a regular Joye, which was a little too much for me.

You probably won't have a problem with the plastic band as long as it is used properly. I let my son use mine for a few minutes and that's when it separated enough to make the cartomizer look crooked. He said he didn't do anything to cause it, but that's nothing unusual. I've been hearing that kind of answer from him all his life. It didn't work while it was like that, but worked OK after I pushed it back down in place.

 

[DaveP]

I've noticed recently that my eGo threads aren't as precisely cut as my Riva threads. It was especially noticeable when I started using Boge cartos. The Rivas thread tightly and the eGo is a loose thread fit. I thought it was because all my eGo batts are a year or more old, but the 1000mah eGo battery I recently ordered is the same way.

If I put an eGo batt in my pocket with a Boge carto, when I take it out, that carto is crooked. I have to back off the threads and re-align it when I screw it back on. The Rivas don't do that. My Rivas have perfect threading. I'm wondering if there's a difference in the thread spec on the two or just shoddy manufacturing.

 

[JW50]

I'm thinking that the LED bar graph is physically connected inside the cell before the regulator board, but through the switch so that the LED bar graph comes on when you vape. That way, it would show you the actual voltage of the cell over time. Capacity is the ability of a cell to deliver voltage to a load over time. In an eGo, as we vape, the pulse width of the voltage is changed to provide the same effective average voltage to the load.

In this battery, the 4.2v setting is full duty cycle. The other levels would be reduced pulse duty cycle to provide a pulsed voltage that your meter reads as a steady average voltage. The led indicator would have to be reading the actual voltage the battery is producing to give you the state of the battery itself, since PWM would vary through the battery's cycle.

Do you have a link for the video mentioned earlier? The LED bar graph reflecting a pre-board voltage or a post-board peak voltage seems reasonable. For this particular batt, I don't think duty varies through the batt's cycle. I think it is a fixed duty for each selection and therefore the RMS voltage here will decline in a manner similar to peak voltage in Rockman's experiments with the eGo.

 

[br5495]

Oh, I'm a low voltage vaper. I like Really big battery 3.7 volt mods but mainly for the battery life.

A 1300 mAh battery may not be big enough for you, but if you're looking for lower voltage, this one works at about 3 volts.
SUN Super battery - 1300mAh - with 5 click On/Off & 15sec cutoff.

This is basically a Hello 016 battery with an eGo fitting. However, the Hello battery works at about 3.1 volts. I am trying two of these at this time and hope to get good service from them. The description says that the LED button is white, but mine are green.

 

[progg]

While the regular and SE Rivas don't have that particular 'band' problem I still find the threading on Rivas I have, don't accept all attys/cartos without some mod. Some work and I set them aside for certain batts... So far only one Joye batt (out of many) had that threading problem.

I've noticed recently that my eGo threads aren't as precisely cut as my Riva threads. It was especially noticeable when I started using Boge cartos. The Rivas thread tightly and the eGo is a loose thread fit. I thought it was because all my eGo batts are a year or more old, but the 1000mah eGo battery I recently ordered is the same way.

If I put an eGo batt in my pocket with a Boge carto, when I take it out, that carto is crooked. I have to back off the threads and re-align it when I screw it back on. The Rivas don't do that. My Rivas have perfect threading. I'm wondering if there's a difference in the thread spec on the two or just shoddy manufacturing.

I think there's a difference in the specs -- the eGo thread specs accommodate more atty/carto thread variances.

 

[Rocketman]

I've been hearing that kind of answer from him all his life.

Man, that makes me feel a ton better. Thought mine was was the only one
Wut, I dinn't do nuttin?

 

[Scottbee]

I'm thinking that the LED bar graph is physically connected inside the cell before the regulator board, but through the switch so that the LED bar graph comes on when you vape. That way, it would show you the actual voltage of the cell over time. Capacity is the ability of a cell to deliver voltage to a load over time. In an eGo, as we vape, the pulse width of the voltage is changed to provide the same effective average voltage to the load.

In this battery, the 4.2v setting is full duty cycle. The other levels would be reduced pulse duty cycle to provide a pulsed voltage that your meter reads as a steady average voltage. The led indicator would have to be reading the actual voltage the battery is producing to give you the state of the battery itself, since PWM would vary through the battery's cycle.

Your "thinking" is consistent with what I am seeing with the unit. LED bar graph connected directly to the cell output, showing raw cell voltage (ergo: remaining capacity), and then three selectable PWM algorithms.... with the highest setting perhaps having no pulses at all.

 

[Kent C]

I had an eGo pass-through up until recently, but zapped it when I accidentally shorted the output during a test. I replaced it with the fancy one I have now. Like yours, mine ran a bit hotter than a regular Joye, which was a little too much for me.

You probably won't have a problem with the plastic band as long as it is used properly. I let my son use mine for a few minutes and that's when it separated enough to make the cartomizer look crooked. He said he didn't do anything to cause it, but that's nothing unusual. I've been hearing that kind of answer from him all his life. It didn't work while it was like that, but worked OK after I pushed it back down in place.

I'll keep that (your PT) in mind if another one goes. And I hear ya on the 'hearing that kind of answer from him...' It's good to know what can happen though. Don't know if you were in on or lurked the original TMax thread... but it wasn't pretty.