Battery Voltages -- Surprise!

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Scottbee

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Just got my Riva and I find it enormously satisfying, despite the apparent low voltage and any FET issues, whatever they may be. :D Actually, I find my vaping experience on the Riva to be superior to that of a kr8 (Kanger) battery, even though, on paper at least, it makes no sense. The vapor and flavor are richer, smoother, fuller and warmer with both the new eGo cartomizer (2.65 Ω) and with 510 cartos (2.9-3.0 Ω). So what accounts for this? How can one explain it? I'm not just imagining things, am I? Has the circuitry been tweaked in the Riva/Hello in comparison to the eGo?

You're probably not imagining things (although I know for a fact that you are prone to hallucinations...), but it's often tough to really compare apples-to-apples without throwing an orange into the mix.

Cartomizers, when used on an eGo class device, will usually have different vape characteristics when you install the cone. And then it changes even more as you vary the air gap between the cone and the cartomizer body (thickness of label, no label, modified cone). The cone can "tighten up the draw" a little bit, change incoming airflow characteristics (primarily temperature), and cause the body temperature of the cartomizer to also rise a bit. All of those things are weighing factors on the "vaping experience". And as far as the Humongo-eGo (HumoneGo) cartomizer is concerned.... I have run it on a "3.1V" RiVa and a modified Riva-class unit that actually puts out 3.7V. There is a difference, and it is more than noticeable. But once again, it's tough for you to run that comparison because once you put the HumoneGo on an adapter to use it on a different device, you change the airflow again.
 

br5495

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Todays fun fact: The printed circuit board inside of the Riva (perhaps even the entire unit) is manufactured by "Hello".. and in my opinion it is by-far the easiest unit to repair after a FET failure.

(The MaxX / T-Rex may actually be easier since they tend to fall apart all by themselves)
Have you tested the Hello 16 battery? Mine regulates at 3.0 volts. I measured the voltage with 6 different devices, ranging from 1.7 to 4.3 ohms, and the voltage was the same. My Fluke 73 fluctuated slightly during the tests, but the differences were negligible.

br
 

Katya

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You're probably not imagining things (although I know for a fact that you are prone to hallucinations...), but it's often tough to really compare apples-to-apples without throwing an orange into the mix.

Cartomizers, when used on an eGo class device, will usually have different vape characteristics when you install the cone. And then it changes even more as you vary the air gap between the cone and the cartomizer body (thickness of label, no label, modified cone). The cone can "tighten up the draw" a little bit, change incoming airflow characteristics (primarily temperature), and cause the body temperature of the cartomizer to also rise a bit. All of those things are weighing factors on the "vaping experience". And as far as the Humongo-eGo (HumoneGo) cartomizer is concerned.... I have run it on a "3.1V" RiVa and a modified Riva-class unit that actually puts out 3.7V. There is a difference, and it is more than noticeable. But once again, it's tough for you to run that comparison because once you put the HumoneGo on an adapter to use it on a different device, you change the airflow again.


Hallucinations, say you. Yeah, I thought I was hallucinating when I saw this baby. A 3.7-4.2v eGo, I mean V-Go, battery, but with the kr808D-1 connection. So somebody was paying attention to this thread, after all...:D

So what do I do now? Buy a kr808>510 adapter to use my eGo cartos on my V-Go battery or go looking for my Turbos? :p


 

player57

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Jun 21, 2010
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Found this comment on the same page...

True 3.7v This passthru puts out a solid 3.7v, compared to a stock at ~3.2v. When paired with the LR 510 attys, this thing is a MONSTER! Compatibility is awesome with the mini USB connector. I can leave a cord at home, work, and in the car using an accumulated overstock without having to buy new equipment. At $13.99, this is a steal...what are you waiting for? Buy one! Reviewed by: Anthony from Chicago. on 6/28/2010

Now, if only somebody could make a true 3.7v eGo. V-GO 3.7v? Doubtful, but would be nice if somebody could check it's voltage to eliminate possibilities.

Appreciate all the fine work you've done here Scottbee!
BTW Nice Tecktronix Scope..
 

Scottbee

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Appreciate all the fine work you've done here Scottbee!
BTW Nice Tecktronix Scope..

Thanks!

That Tec is older than dirt.. and the fascia is all scarred up by nitro, alcohol, and bean oil (I used to build inertial dynamometers for fun)... but it will still crank out a nice solid trace.
 

player57

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Did you ever see my "Dream PV's" thread?

Yes, I did. Very nice but I'm not a "juice box" kind of guy. Had my heart set on a Super6 from SuperT Engineering (price is really no object when I consider how much I'm saving from vaping). Unfortunately I've switched to the eGO Carto's from Cignot and would have a hard time going back to any other kind of atty setup.
 

Scottbee

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Yes, I did. Very nice but I'm not a "juice box" kind of guy. Had my heart set on a Super6 from SuperT Engineering (price is really no object when I consider how much I'm saving from vaping). Unfortunately I've switched to the eGO Carto's from Cignot and would have a hard time going back to any other kind of atty setup.

One of the other "features" of the Super TorneGo II (besides the juice feeding) is that I modified the Tornado battery so that it puts out a "true" 3.7VDC (no PWM). Noticeable difference.
 

player57

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One of the other "features" of the Super TorneGo II (besides the juice feeding) is that I modified the Tornado battery so that it puts out a "true" 3.7VDC (no PWM). Noticeable difference.

I may cobble together a 3.7V setup now that I have fittings from a couple of bad 180ma batteries and try it out. Two weeks ago I was dripping using LR atties and thought that was the cats meow but now it doesn't come close to the flavor of the carto IMHO.

Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you have charging issues after defeating the PWM on the eGO ASIC a while back?
 

player57

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I had concerns that the charging portion might not work properly after the mod.. but those concerns were unjustified.

That's excellent news! Whenever one of my eGOs go bad I'll have to mod it for 3.7V after replacing the battery. Not being a stranger to soldering SMD components or using a lathe I'll probably just make my own battery casing allowing the use of drop-in replaceable batteries.

So what did you have to do in order to defeat the 3.1V 'problem'?
 

Scottbee

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So what did you have to do in order to defeat the 3.1V 'problem'?

There are two methods that I have personally used.. and of course, there are others.

1) Disconnect the existing FET from the controller and drive (sink) the gate right off of the tactile switch. The battery will work just fine, as will the charging circuit. *BUT* the LED will give you erroneous indications and you should take care to not press the button while it is on the charger.

2) Pull out the Joye or Hello PCB and slide a Kanger in there. Fits fine (with minor modifications) and works well.
 
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