Be aware of Russian 91%

[ibndevilish]

I just want to warn those that are thinking about getting the Russian 91% V2. Yes it does come with the new pin but that doesn't fix all the problems I have with it.

I'm on my second one as the first one had the new pin but the deck wouldn't stay tight on it and the 510 would leak juice out of it, so I contacted the vendor and they had me send it back. I get a email and they said yes you have a problem we will send you another one. I was like great I'm getting something that works.
Well I was wrong. I get the new one and the deck moves while trying to get the wires on. So I contact the vendor again, they ask for a video on what it's doing and of course I did a video. I get a email back stating they are aware that the Russians do this.But now I have to send the Russian back on my dime again even though they knew about the problem and didn't tell me it's a common one. I would of requested a refund if they were up front. So now have to have them inspect it again knowing about the issue. Does this make sense?

So if they are aware of this then why do they still sell something that can short out as mine did and good thing I had it on my provari while using it as the deck moved while I was using it and the provari gave a error code. Good thing I didn't have it on my Nzonic who knows what could of happened as the wires were attached but moved and hit the post.

 

[ka724ka]

Are you able to tighten the center post with the screwdriver that come with the kit?

 

[KC33]

V2 is a lemon, you can still find the original if you shop around. I prefer the KFL, the newest version has 2 air holes.

 

[ibndevilish]

Are you able to tighten the center post with the screwdriver that come with the kit?

I have tightened as far as it will go. I got a email back from the vendor and they admitted it's a issue with the Russian, so they sell them knowing it's a issue which really ticks me right off. When I contacted them the first time and told them about the deck moving and it leaking from the 510 connection not once did they say it was a issue until this time around. so now I have to pay for a 2nd time of shipping to see if they will refund me my money, even with a video of me trying to put a coil on and them knowing about the issue they want to inspect it. So I will be spending another $9.00 for shipping which ticks me..They should have told me it's a known issue in the first place or put on the website about the issue so customers are aware and make the decision if they should still get it or not. If I would have known before I got it I would never have gotten it. I have never owned a clone up until last night. I got a kayfun clone and the deck doesn't move and the quality is way better at half the price. So I now know why some people buy a clone instead of a authentic version some times.

 

[desertrider]

So youve taken out the smaller adjustable center screw and tightened down the main center screw?

 

[Millah]

V2 is a lemon, you can still find the original if you shop around. I prefer the KFL, the newest version has 2 air holes.

Even the v1 I'm not terribly fond of. I have both a v1 and a KFL+, I've stopped using the Russian. First of all, its a minor annoyance (that even the first KFL had), but the juice slowly leaking from the fill screw I'm not crazy about. But that's not a big deal. The problem I get with the Russian v1, even with the original 510 pin design, is that on certain mods like my SX200 mod, the resistance is not stable. This is a problem I've never had with the KFL+. Its not my build. And only on mods like the SX or DNAs where they are constantly reading the resistance. It doesn't do this on every mod. There's just something with the 510 pin not keeping a stable connection or something, I have no clue.

 

[EuroChris]

Even the v1 I'm not terribly fond of. I have both a v1 and a KFL+, I've stopped using the Russian. First of all, its a minor annoyance (that even the first KFL had), but the juice slowly leaking from the fill screw I'm not crazy about. But that's not a big deal. The problem I get with the Russian v1, even with the original 510 pin design, is that on certain mods like my SX200 mod, the resistance is not stable. This is a problem I've never had with the KFL+. Its not my build. And only on mods like the SX or DNAs where they are constantly reading the resistance. It doesn't do this on every mod. There's just something with the 510 pin not keeping a stable connection or something, I have no clue.

I assume you use it with the Sigelei 20w mod when you say SX200. I use it with the same mod, and I have noticed the same thing. The resistance will go up to 3-3.5 ohms and you fry the coil. It is because the screw on the Russian is very loose and with the springloaded pin on the Sig20w, you screw the pin in when you screw the R91 unto the mod.

I found a way to make it go away. When you screw the R91 on, you have to have the R91-pin sticking 2-3mm out, and you have to push it hard against the mod when you screw it on. That way the pin(mod) will be pressed down a bit, and always have good contact with the R91 pin. After I started doing this, I have had 100% stable resistance.



As for the leaking through the fill hole. I fixed that with one of the O-rings that came with the R91. I know it's not made for the fill hole screw, but it does the job.

So youve taken out the smaller adjustable center screw and tightened down the main center screw?

^This.

 

[BobC]

I, and most of the folks here I know that purchased the V2 ( and I have a few) love it, and have no such problem as long as the replacement or newer version pin is used,they did make a mistake with the first V2 pin, as it wasn't reliable, it worked on one but didn't make a good connection with the 2nd one.
Upon replacing the pins on the first two and purchasing another with the revised pin, I use all mine daily without issue

 

[Millah]

I assume you use it with the Sigelei 20w mod when you say SX200. I use it with the same mod, and I have noticed the same thing. The resistance will go up to 3-3.5 ohms and you fry the coil. It is because the screw on the Russian is very loose and with the springloaded pin on the Sig20w, you screw the pin in when you screw the R91 unto the mod.

I found a way to make it go away. When you screw the R91 on, you have to have the R91-pin sticking 2-3mm out, and you have to push it hard against the mod when you screw it on. That way the pin(mod) will be pressed down a bit, and always have good contact with the R91 pin. After I started doing this, I have had 100% stable resistance.



As for the leaking through the fill hole. I fixed that with one of the O-rings that came with the R91. I know it's not made for the fill hole screw, but it does the job.

I'll give it a try. I've done it every which way, I think I've tried it with the pin extended pretty far as I could, but I'll try it again and see what happens. And the smallest O-Rings that came with the R91 will work with the fill hole? Lol, does it leave the screw sticking out, or can you screw it down flush to the base? Another good idea, thanks for the suggestions.

 

[ibndevilish]

So youve taken out the smaller adjustable center screw and tightened down the main center screw?

yes I have done that..I even took it apart again tonight to see if I can get it tighter and couldn't. I loved my Russian but when I used the first one I had with the same issue and the deck moved while I was using it and my provari gave me the error code and when I seen the deck had moved that made me a bit nervous to use it but the place I got it from said some thing was wrong with it so they did take it back and sent me another and the deck still moves on the new one. I would love for it to be fixed and not even sure if the fatdaddys kit will fix and and I shouldn't have to pay for a fix. So I just dunno anymore. I love the look and it worked great lacking the issues.

 

[ibndevilish]

I, and most of the folks here I know that purchased the V2 ( and I have a few) love it, and have no such problem as long as the replacement or newer version pin is used,they did make a mistake with the first V2 pin, as it wasn't reliable, it worked on one but didn't make a good connection with the 2nd one.
Upon replacing the pins on the first two and purchasing another with the revised pin, I use all mine daily without issue

Does your deck move while you are trying to tighten down the wires?

 

[danfinger]

I too occasionally get the deck movement. pulling the contact pin and really cranking down on the deck screw about once per month has worked. I figured out the o-ring on the fill port screw on the first day. Also put a second o-ring on the contact pin to keep it from wiggling too much. No leaking at all for my Russian now.

 

[paulispuffin]

I too had a couple hard shorts from the positive block moving. My work around is:
1. Remove the small adjustable bottom screw
2. Tighten the positive pin screw while holding the positive block with pliers
3. When tightening the coil to the positive block hold the block with pliers
4. Install the small adjustable bottom screw with two o-rings. This keeps the screw in place e better when screwing on to your mod

 

[BobC]

For the R91, you should always remove the 510 screw to tighten the base positive connection

 

[HumbleTex]

I don't generally post knocking an atty or mod but I'll never buy another Kebo atty period.

My first was a Russian and the first one I received had a broken positive pole. It was sheared off right where it screwed into the deck. I was able to get it replaced but even the "good" one is constantly loosening up. Every time the 510 pin makes contact it twists just a little until it eventually hard shorts.

The second was a 91% V2. When I got away from the collector tank on the Russian I thought I was golden and then I started to build on it. Same thing .. the positive block twists and shorts. I take it apart, tighten everything up and finish my build. Ohm's check fine and I think I'm golden. Screw it on a mod and ... nothing. "Check atomizer". I back off the "adjustable" 510 and try again. Now I have a hard short because the positive pole has twisted and shorted.

Ugh .. put in a tech support ticket asking for a refund because I'm just not going to deal with this again and am told that it's a known issue and I should add an o-ring to the 510 pin. 3 O-rings later it's finally sticking out enough to make contact with any of my mods. Stared at it for 30 seconds, drained the juice, said screw it and stuck it back in the box.

Maybe it's just me but it seems really silly to pay $100+ for an atty that I have to fix when I receive it. I know some people have them, they worked great and they love them dearly. I wish I'd had that experience but paying more for a 91% that doesn't work out of the box just seems ridiculous when I can buy a KFL+ that works for less.

Never again.

 

[hippesthippo]

Yeah, that's a problem with the Russian. I've posted this on several other threads here. Air/juice can leak out of there. Not a good thing. I gave up on mine and bought a genuine KFL+ v2. Couldn't be happier with it, wicks a dream.

 

[steved5600]

If i were to by a kayfun today ( have like 3 so am full up with them) I"d get the black edition kayfun lite plus. Seems like that one has a lot of fixes in it. For the others Fat Daddy's has fixes for he center pin on all models. Air flow is still a case of a drill press to a point. Can only do so much as that center pin hole is still a limiting factor.

 

[ibndevilish]

I don't generally post knocking an atty or mod but I'll never buy another Kebo atty period.

My first was a Russian and the first one I received had a broken positive pole. It was sheared off right where it screwed into the deck. I was able to get it replaced but even the "good" one is constantly loosening up. Every time the 510 pin makes contact it twists just a little until it eventually hard shorts.

The second was a 91% V2. When I got away from the collector tank on the Russian I thought I was golden and then I started to build on it. Same thing .. the positive block twists and shorts. I take it apart, tighten everything up and finish my build. Ohm's check fine and I think I'm golden. Screw it on a mod and ... nothing. "Check atomizer". I back off the "adjustable" 510 and try again. Now I have a hard short because the positive pole has twisted and shorted.

Ugh .. put in a tech support ticket asking for a refund because I'm just not going to deal with this again and am told that it's a known issue and I should add an o-ring to the 510 pin. 3 O-rings later it's finally sticking out enough to make contact with any of my mods. Stared at it for 30 seconds, drained the juice, said screw it and stuck it back in the box.

Maybe it's just me but it seems really silly to pay $100+ for an atty that I have to fix when I receive it. I know some people have them, they worked great and they love them dearly. I wish I'd had that experience but paying more for a 91% that doesn't work out of the box just seems ridiculous when I can buy a KFL+ that works for less.

Never again.

Well I'm now officially throwing my hands up and admit defeat on the Russian 91. I have tried for over 3 days to get it to fix and didn't do it. I got the deck kinda of tightened down then got the leaking in the 510 connection got that cleaned up and put it back on my Provari ( Won't even use it on my Nzonics) and it starts to work then get a error code again. 510 connector became loose on it also. And my deck moved with just a small bump on my desk. So this thing is GARBAGE and will be shipped back to where I got it from and then will figure out what I'm going to get. I will use use my clone for now until I get maybe the real KAyfun lite. My clone is made better than this Russian and it's a shame it has these issues as I love the look of it.

 

[Roxxette]

When i got mine i was told to remove the pin and tight that screw, that base never wiggles when i rebuild.

I think they even clone the clones lol maybe you got a clone instead of the "authentic" kebo ?

 

[Yotdawglife]

I sent my russian back because I was extremely disappointed by the performance, but to fix your issue, mod willing. What I did was hold the block matching the negative post with some needle nose pliers. I then cranked that 510 pin in as hard as I could, built carefully and it solved the problem.

I ended up returning my russian after I had washed it about 10 times with every single thing recommended to me, wicked numerous times with cotton then silicia and couldn't get the nasty metal taste out of it. I bought a kayfun clone and realized man this is a GREAT 30 dollar atty, just not worth 100+.