Being kicked from TC to Wattage mode
- Thread starter Yaroon
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Take a pic at the same angle I did and post it. I'm curious too.
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It gives same readings on the rx200 and rx300
It fires normally on VW mode, no warning messages,.. The build is done proper, coils glowing nicely, screws firmly tightened.. Tried the SS wires on the Aromamizer plus and the Limitless Classic which are performing as they should be on VW
If it is not possible to have such low resistance with this build and the everlasting issues I get with whatever u try or build I can only think of one reason; the wire.
It's supposed to be an authentic one from GeekVape. Bought it from fasttech and it does receive proper reviews..
Perhaps time to try some other wire or SS pre coils (?)
Just curious, who is the maker of the SS wire your using?
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Not sure why your having the problems that you are. I built a staggered fused clapton tonight to see if I had the issues again. This one started out at .21 ohms and wouldn't stay in TC. After taking a few tokes I looked and it was down to .19 so I put it in TC and it seems to be staying in TC. My coils are the staggered fuse clapton (all SS, 24gauge cores claptoned with 32 gauge then staggered fused with the 32 gauge) 6 wraps with a 4mm id. Haven't had a problem with it since it dropped under .20. Without having to finback n read through all the comments, have you built a coil under .20?
Here is a pic of the build I have in my Mason 27mm RDA. I ended up trying this build spaced in between the wraps. I usually squeeze them together but figured I'd try something different.
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Here is a pic of the build I have in my Mason 27mm RDA. I ended up trying this build spaced in between the wraps. I usually squeeze them together but figured I'd try something different.
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So after I sent this I went to fire the RDA and it asked if it was the same .19 coil or if it was a new coil (.21). I click the new .21 coil and went to fire it in Tc and it kicked me back to VW. I bet you have to be under .20 in order to use SS TC. Just a thought.
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Nice build
I haven't been able to go above 0.14ohm since I started trying to make it work with this wire. I'll give it another shot the coming days and if it fails I'll buy some different gauge. If it keeps on failing it must be some sort of sign to stick with kanthal only
I haven't been able to go above 0.14ohm since I started trying to make it work with this wire. I'll give it another shot the coming days and if it fails I'll buy some different gauge. If it keeps on failing it must be some sort of sign to stick with kanthal only
You guys have some serious problems. You shouldn't have to be below .2ohms to stay in tc.
According to Steam Engine a SS316 coil at 250C will be 1.2075x higher resistance than what it was at room temperature.
So, a 0.2 ohm coil (at room temperature) would read a whole whooping 0.2415 ohms at 250C.
One of the reasons to NOT build contact coils. SS is conductive and just wicking can change the dynamics/resistance of a contact coil. Best to be avoided.
Can you see why many experienced TC users use coils with higher base resistance AND only use wire with fairly high TCR's? (one or the other often is all that is needed but using both surely does not hurt the TC accuracy at all)
It would seem that your 0.02 ohm resistance error is eating almost 1/2 of your usable resistance range.
So, a 0.2 ohm coil (at room temperature) would read a whole whooping 0.2415 ohms at 250C.
One of the reasons to NOT build contact coils. SS is conductive and just wicking can change the dynamics/resistance of a contact coil. Best to be avoided.
Can you see why many experienced TC users use coils with higher base resistance AND only use wire with fairly high TCR's? (one or the other often is all that is needed but using both surely does not hurt the TC accuracy at all)
It would seem that your 0.02 ohm resistance error is eating almost 1/2 of your usable resistance range.
You should be building spaced coils for tc if you're not already.
Generally. Like anything, there are always exceptions, and I've had contact SS coils that were fine in TC. But if staying in TC is an issue, spaced is a reasonable first step to try. And getting the resistance over 0.3 ohm. As @GeorgeS posted, working at really low resistance with a wire that has such a low TCR to begin with needs to be addressed. And if the wire you're trying to use simply can't accomplish that, it's time to find a different wire.
I've been using a Smoktech G-Priv touch screen for about a month, I'm using an atomizer in the tank. This unit uses a preheater in the settings with a min setting of 10 W, I'm not sure how this preheater works and I've not been able to find out how it works. Also in the TC mode there is a initial ohms in it. I've found both the preheater watts setting and the initial ohms setting affect if it will get kicked into Watts mode. I've also used the unit with a RBA and I've had to change the initial ohm setting. If I get the warning the atomizer is to low I have to go into the TC settings and lower the initial ohms. In your case if there is not an initial ohms setting you'd have to increase the resistance of the coil.
Also I tried to switching to stainless steel with bad results and went back to nickel wire. It has been a while but I believe I've had a TC mode in a more standard unit switch to Watts if the coil resistance was to low.
Also I tried to switching to stainless steel with bad results and went back to nickel wire. It has been a while but I believe I've had a TC mode in a more standard unit switch to Watts if the coil resistance was to low.
I'm using geekvape wire, but only normal ss 26 and 28 ga. Though I've never had problems with claptons I suggest you try simple coils and see if that works better. You're pulsing to make sure you get all the hot spots out, right? And you're using spaced coils?
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If the coil is read properly there shouldn't be any need to adjust the initial resistance reading. If it's always needed it would appear that there's something wrong with the mod.
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So what wire do accomplished TC users tend to use? Ti or Ni? I've read where both can give off a gas that you don't want to breath in. That's why I have been using SS and haven't really had much problem with it. I have a dual alien 4 wraps around 3mm in my Goon and ohms out at .07 that's working in TC, another build is Ni200 in my Buddha a spaced dual 26 ga wrapped 8 times around a 4mm ohms in at .09 that works in TC and lastly I have a SS 24 ga/32 ga staggered fused clapton 6 wraps around a 4mm ohms in at .19 that works in TC. I'm not having an issue with any of them staying in TC.
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Really the only issue with Ni200 or TI-01 is dry burning. Many Kanthal users find Ni200 a bit "flimsy" to work with but in both cases as long as your not making them go over 600F (Ni200) then there is no problem with using it. Ti has an oxide that some folks are afraid of. (over 800F) If found I just rinse it off with a faucet.
My wire of choice is NiFe48/52. I use it and TI mostly. Sometimes I'll wrap a SS430 coil. All my non-tube mods have TC and very few of my tanks have Kanthal builds installed.
I even run TI or NiFe in my TC squonkers. The mechanical squonkers get TI.
I can't stand kanthal. I primarily use Ni80 or SS. I will have to get a little bit more of Ni200, Ti and look into the NiFe48/52. Never heard of that but I'll check it out. Thanks for the info.
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Most do seem to prefer ss316l. I know I do (though I don't know that I'm "accomplished"
), after having tried ni200, titanium grade 1, and ss304. Some users really like titanium, and it's not too bad. No worries as long as it's not dry burned. I started with ni200, as that was the only tc wire used back then, but it's annoying to work with. I don't think there are a lot of people preferring it. Really don't understand why they would. Sure, it has a high tcr, but plenty of negatives and most tc mods today work very well with other wires.Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
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