Being kicked from TC to Wattage mode
- Thread starter Yaroon
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My smok big baby beast came in yesterday, it has a .15 ohm coil with 2 coils, a .2 ohm with 3 coils, the RBA deck with Claptons in it. I'll probably start with the RBA and Claptons, I already have the Clapton wire but haven't been able to use it because it was to large to fit on other RBA's.
Anyways I don't think most people understand the smok G priv. In the temp mode it asks for the material which you input, it asks for the preheat, a min of 10 W which you input, it has a tcr which you adjust, there is an initial ohm which you input and the activate switch. During use it counts puffs, gives amps, gives volts and gives the ohms you put in. it also shows the battery status.
Anyways I don't think most people understand the smok G priv. In the temp mode it asks for the material which you input, it asks for the preheat, a min of 10 W which you input, it has a tcr which you adjust, there is an initial ohm which you input and the activate switch. During use it counts puffs, gives amps, gives volts and gives the ohms you put in. it also shows the battery status.
The "adjust ohms" is there in case your mod is reading the resistance incorrectly (for example the coil is still hot) and you know what the resistance actually is (actual resistance can't be changed via a mod). It does not adjust the resistance but the resistance reading, and shouldn't be used except in extreme cases, as a "desperate last measure work around". If the mod doesn't work correctly without touching that value you have a faulty mod and should exchange it. I agree with Anthony Vapes that that adjustment shouldn't even be present in mods. Also, note that the amps read are at the atomizer and that's distinct from the battery amp draw. That's the case with all mods with amp displays that I know of, and it's pretty much useless information.
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After solving a few problems I got the Smok RBA with SS coils up and working in the temp mode. Frist I'll say the people who inputted are right, the unit did get the resistance of the coils and asked a yes or no if I wanted a .40 ohm input or a .135 ohm input. I choose the .40 0hms and the unit was ready to go. I'm using Virginia and the flavor coming out is stronger than the standard tank. Getting back to the original problem it would seem Yaroon is talking about .14 ohms, sounds like a nickel value and should be building much higher resistances when using SS, I think the Eleaf uses .30 ohms SS.
After finishing this project I came across the manual, the different size glass for use with the RBA is not mentioned and the resistance of the SS coils is not mentioned although the unit took care of that.
After finishing this project I came across the manual, the different size glass for use with the RBA is not mentioned and the resistance of the SS coils is not mentioned although the unit took care of that.
My method seems to work for me, I have a unit with an RBA tank and can use SS Clapton coils and don't have to worry about buying atomizers. Smok really could write better manuals, they make a great vaporizer but there is important info missing from there manuals. I still do not know what their preheating is.
I had worked in electronic research which means you start a project knowing very little or nothing about a project, try to reach a goal and hopefully know a little about the subject when finished.
I had worked in electronic research which means you start a project knowing very little or nothing about a project, try to reach a goal and hopefully know a little about the subject when finished.
After nearly pulling out my hair due to not figuring out why this TC kick to VW happened I can say that it took only 1 small adjustment to fix it all;
Turn - off - the - damn - preheat - function on your mod
Case closed. (Damn, what noob I am, geez...!)
Turn - off - the - damn - preheat - function on your mod
Case closed. (Damn, what noob I am, geez...!)
Yaroon,
I'm glad you got your vaporizer working as it should. I'm stuck with the preheat, a min or 10 W and a max of 220 W, no way to turn it off on my model as far as I can see. It might be helpful when using Clapton coils since they take a little time to heat. It's the old live and learn.
I'm glad you got your vaporizer working as it should. I'm stuck with the preheat, a min or 10 W and a max of 220 W, no way to turn it off on my model as far as I can see. It might be helpful when using Clapton coils since they take a little time to heat. It's the old live and learn.
Same on the rx300; min 1w - max 300. However, on the RX you can also adjust the seconds of heating time. In that option I was able to turn it off. Perhaps it works for you like that as well
Checked some Djlsb Vapes reviews (of the rx300 and the new Wismec Predator) and according to him Wismec mods have a very short period where they look for the increase in resistance in tc mode. As complex coils heat up slower, this means that the mod doesn't detect a sufficient rise in resistance and therefore thinks that the coils aren't tc capable. Sadly, the solution would seem to be to simply use less complex wire (or perhaps try out the ArcticFox firmware and see if that helps). I've never had this problem though, but I don't have the rx300 nor do I use anything more complex than single core claptons and triple wire twisteds.
Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
I've seen video's of the early models of the Smok GPriv which are different from the model I have, I'd say they inputted the info to improve the model.
I've been using dual coils for quite a while since I like to get the flavor through. At least the tank is 25 mm so at last I can use the Clapton coils that will not fit in the 22 mm tanks I had been using.
I've been using dual coils for quite a while since I like to get the flavor through. At least the tank is 25 mm so at last I can use the Clapton coils that will not fit in the 22 mm tanks I had been using.
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