Best 26650 Battery for Sub Ohm Vaping

[Baditude]

You should never build any coil less than 0.3 ohm no matter what battery you use. You are too close to a dead short which can cause ANY battery to go into thermal runaway (battery meltdown).

I don't agree with this. I vape my ADV at between .15 and .19 on VTC5's every day. Don't ever have a problem and provides an outstanding vape. I do agree to educate yourself first but with the LiMn chemistry, you don't have to worry about batteries blowing up as much like the old ICR type batts. Everybody is still so stuck on the old battery experiences rather than the newer batts.

That's fine, you do not have to agree with me.

I totally agree that todays IMR and IMR/hybrid batteries are safer batteries than the previously recommended (just 1 - 2 years ago) protected ICR batteries. But to say that an IMR battery can't blow up like an ICR is foolish. Below is a genuine AW 18490 IMR battery which obviously blew up. Can you imagine that happening in a mechanical mod?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/472990-hi-all-shaken-up-provari-aw-18490-battery-owner.html

AW 18490 IMR

With the number of counterfeit batteries that are now on the market, can you REALLY be SURE if you have a genuine brand name battery? Even trusted & reliable battery resellers such as Illumination Supply receive counterfeit batteries: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/batteries-chargers/590787-more-fake-sony-vtc5.html

Sony has said that they have not made the Sony VTC batteries in years, and they never intended for them to be used for our application in mods. Multiple battery factories are making these "Sony batteries currently on the market. It's my current conclusion that there is no such thing as a genuine Sony battery. Some are likely better than others, but how can you tell which is which? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/592447-sony-18650-30a-vtc5-2600mah-us18650vtc5.html



We have one manufacturer who sells an advertised 35 amp battery, and independent tests show it to be a re-wrapped battery made by another company who says that battery is only a 20 amp battery. The same manufacturer makes another claim of a battery with 20 amps, and independent testing shows it to be yet another re-wrapped manufacturer's battery with less than 10 amps.

Efest 30 & 35 amp batteries?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/batteries-chargers/587759-purple-efest-18650-battery-warning.html

The EH brand 18650 2500mAh advertised at 35A are also rebranded LG18650HE2 20A.

We are buying and using batteries which for all intents and purposes were not designed to be used in APV's. They were not designed to be used for single battery use, but in multiple battery packs with protection circuitry. Using these batteries in a mechanical mod at super sub-ohm builds is much more stressful than their intended use.

Cloud Chasing is Dangerous

With the current state of HIGH AMP IMR/hybrid batteries being in a state of flux, why press your luck vaping at less than 0.3 ohms and possibly unknowingly using a counterfeit battery, or a battery which doesn't meet its advertised rating? I choose to err on the side of caution and safety, what you do is your own business. But knowing the above information I personally in good conscience can not condone anyone super sub-ohm vaping.

 

[mrdee3]

^^^ This guy know nothing about battery's!!! While you are correct there are counterfeit cells out there and bad battery's, The funny part of it all is that you think because you stay above .3 ohms your safe SMH!!! We all take chances with our battery's venting, hell look at all the EGO battery's that vent. It is not only the sub ohm vapers that vent battery's!!! You yourself showed a Provari battery that vented. Bottom line if a battery fails it fails, this could happen at any resistance so stop spreading the nonsense that your Mr safe and vape at .3 and up.

 

[mrdee3]

One more thing what the heck does (can you imagine that happening in a mechanical mod) mean?? Is a Provari a magic mod that makes venting less of an event??

 

[milescadre]

^^^ This guy know nothing about battery's!!! While you are correct there are counterfeit cells out there and bad battery's, The funny part of it all is that you think because you stay above .3 ohms your safe SMH!!! We all take chances with our battery's venting, hell look at all the EGO battery's that vent. It is not only the sub ohm vapers that vent battery's!!! You yourself showed a Provari battery that vented. Bottom line if a battery fails it fails, this could happen at any resistance so stop spreading the nonsense that your Mr safe and vape at .3 and up.

let me put it this way; Anything under 1 ohm is going to induce significant stress on your battery. Its generally considered safe around 0.3 ohms as the peak draw would be 14 amps, which puts it well under the 20 amp continuous limit.

At 0.7 ohms, you pull a mere 6 amps with a fresh battery at 4.2v, which *almost* is safe enough for even a 18350, albeit you'll have poor life. And in my Kraken, I made clouds almost as big as drippers with 0.3 ohm builds on the same mech with the same battery, with more flavor.

I'm not going to jump on the "youre Crazy" bandwagon just because you vape at 0.15 ohms. You choose to take that risk, and thats fine. But the Battery Runaway Lottery is one Lottery you dont want to win. I hope at the veyr least you take safe precautions when vaping and storing said devices, and dont make unnecessary modifications to your device.

my 2 cents

EDIT: Another way to look at it is this; My engine can buzz 5600 rpm before the cam enters valve float. Redline for the motor is around 4900 rpm, anything after that I risk throwing a rod (Its just how the motor is built, not defective.) If I was racing the motor, and needed that extra 3 horsepower and that extra 10th of a second, I'd push it, and risk everyhing. But every day driving, why risk it when I can cruise at 2200 rpm, put minimum wear on the motor, and get from A to B within a reasonable amount of time? Vaping, ot me, is the same way; 0.7 ohm dual coil build on a genesis gives me flavor, clouds, and lets me still claim sub ohm. Why do I need to go lower? To each their own of course, but that again is my 2 cents.

 

[milescadre]

One more thing what the heck does (can you imagine that happening in a mechanical mod) mean?? Is a Provari a magic mod that makes venting less of an event??

The trend seems to be less venting on clones and newer mech mods (just look at the manhattan). Provaris have a hot spring which collapses when the battery shorts, which gives mroe room for venting and breaks the connection to prevent further damage. in the case of the manhattan, theres no vent holes and no room for the battery to vent or expand, which turns it into a pipe bomb.

 

[mrdee3]

The only mod I'v ever vented it was a 2 ohm carto on there. Bad design the mod fell from my dresser onto carpeted floor 3 feet tops, big pop lots of flames. I grabbed the mod with a towel and took it to the sink where I gave it a salt water bath to stop the reaction. All I am saying is anything can vent NOT JUST SUB OHM. Of course this was a ICR battery that shorted to one of the screws in the mod. metal screws with a lithium polymer battery pack = disaster!!!

 

[milescadre]

The only mod I'v ever vented it was a 2 ohm carto on there. Bad design the mod fell from my dresser onto carpeted floor 3 feet tops, big pop lots of flames. I grabbed the mod with a towel and took it to the sink where I gave it a salt water bath to stop the reaction. All I am saying is anything can vent NOT JUST SUB OHM. Of course this was a ICR battery that shorted to one of the screws in the mod. metal screws with a lithium polymer battery pack = disaster!!!

I had a 2.5 ohm carto hard short in my buddy's K100, on a MNKE battery. Neverh ad a problem with it before and after, just a bad carto.

But, when youre sub ohming, youre significantly increasing the chances of your battery venting. Its like a bridge; if a bridge is rated for 5 tonnes, why would you run 5 tonnes across it all the time? Thats its LIMIT, not CAPACITY. Batteries are the same way imo; a VTC5 has a 20a continuous LIMIT, not CAPACITY. And if theres a 10% chance of venting at 6a, and a 30% chance of venting at 14a, why would I take the unnecessary additional risk to get the same performance?

 

[mrdee3]

This is straight from the VCT4 spec sheet

 

[Sub-ohm Thailer]

First off. One big mistake you ALL have made is saying that anything lower than .1 is a dead short.... if that were the case then a TON of my builds would have been shorted out and not worked. I've built tons of multi coil builds around .07-.09 before and they have worked mighty fine!! All you need to watch out for is the amperage rating. NOT CONTINUOUS but the pulse because nobody who is sub ohming is looking to take more that 5-10 second draws. You'd burn the hell out of your throat doing that. But, with the right amount of air flow, you can vape relatively safely at .7. Yes, you do take a risk of venting your battery EVERY SINGLE TIME YOU VAPE!!!!! The risk is slightly elevated with sub ohming but all in all, nobody really knows what they are talking about. As long as you always remember to lock your mod and take short PULSE draws you can go below 1 ohm. Seeing as how the MNKE 26650 and even Sony 18650 VTC series have a 60A pulse and up to 4.2V output you can go as low as (R=V/I [where R=Resistance, V=Voltage and I=current{amperage}]) R=4.2/60 ==> R=.07 anything lower than that there is no "might vent your battery" you WILL vent your battery. All it takes is a matter of time. Hope this helps.

Keep on vapin' on - < Ω Thailer

 

[wonkeypickle]

For what it's worth, i've vaped the same setup daily, a dual coil build at .19, for almost a year straight now, using "sony" batteries. I'm not saying it's safe or unsafe, just thought the info should be here. There are others who use even lower resistances. I will say i test my builds on an actual multi meter, not the black box type, and if one were to venture into this territory they'd be a fool not to use one.

 

[Sub-ohm Thailer]

agreed. I personally like the black box meter but I use both every time I build. I'm not gonna risk my pretty face for big clouds

Keep on vapin' on - < Ω Thailer

 

[ProjektMayhem]

What's wrong with just telling the guy you don't do that? He's posting a thread to make sure it's safe, and all the battery experts jump down his throat. I like to try and keep ECF positive, so people don't feel like they have to google for 30 minutes before they even come to the forum with a question (which I remember doing, because I was afraid of the battery safety police knowing I didn't know what thermal discharge was.

-I would've said, "Hey keep it above .3 guy, any lower and the batteries weren't designed for it.". Honestly judgement like this is why I'm a master of electrical theory and battery physics. Don't be so proud of common electrician knowledge, it's doesn't make you a pro.
View attachment 324464

Oh snap, son!

 

[ScottChensoda]

Some people think the lower the better

Sent From My Galaxy Note 3

That's the problem. Some people don't think.

 

[sKo713]

My face!!! Threads like this remind me I need to drill some vents in my 4nines .....but I haven't.

 

[Kaezziel]

At the risk of being drawn into the fray that is this thread, I'm going to attempt to answer the original question of what is currently the best 26650 battery for sub ohm. I've been looking at 26650s lately and this is what I've found. You can get them from rtdvapor, so I trust them as much as they can be trusted.

Behold, the KeepPower 50A* 26650

*Just an FYI on the KeepPower 50A 26650s - Short version, Max Continuous Draw is 30A not 50

Specs from KeepPower's website:
1. Typical Capacity: 4200mAh (0.2C Discharge)
2. Minimum Capacity: 4100mAh (0.2C Discharge)
3. Nominal Voltage: 3.7V
4. Standard Charge: CC/CV,1000mA, 4.20V
5. Standard Charge Time: 2hours
6. Maximum Charge: 6A
7. Full Charged Voltage: 4.20V±0.05V, 50mA end-off current
8. Discharge End-off Voltage: 2.50 V
9. Max. Plus Discharge Current: 50.0A
10. Max. Constant Discharge Current: 30.0A
11. Initial Impedance: Max. 25mΩ
12. Weight: Approx. 90.0±1.0g
13. Dimension(D*H): Max.（D）26.20mm*（H）67.50mm
14. Operating temperature
Charging: 0℃~45℃
Discharging: -20℃~60℃
15. Storage temperature
1 year：-20～25°C
3 months：-30～45°C
16. Life: Over 2000 times charge & discharge cycle life

Hope this helps you guys out... I cannot attest to any issues in fit with any specific mods at this point.

Disclaimer: What you do with/to this battery is up to you. I remain irresponsible for any damage that ensues from negligent usage!

 

[sir_puffs_alot]

I just got the vappower 40/60 amp 4200 mah and it makes the mnke look like a double aa batt in terms of performance.

 

[militiascene]

Just to stir the pot for all of you wannabe battery safety experts, I am currently vaping at about .09 ohms on a VTC5 pulling 3-5 sec draws. Does that make your back hair tingle yet??


How bout now?

 

[sando7]

At the risk of being drawn into the fray that is this thread, I'm going to attempt to answer the original question of what is currently the best 26650 battery for sub ohm. I've been looking at 26650s lately and this is what I've found. You can get them from rtdvapor, so I trust them as much as they can be trusted.

Behold, the KeepPower 50A* 26650


*Just an FYI on the KeepPower 50A 26650s - Short version, Max Continuous Draw is 30A not 50

Specs from KeepPower's website:
1. Typical Capacity: 4200mAh (0.2C Discharge)
2. Minimum Capacity: 4100mAh (0.2C Discharge)
3. Nominal Voltage: 3.7V
4. Standard Charge: CC/CV,1000mA, 4.20V
5. Standard Charge Time: 2hours
6. Maximum Charge: 6A
7. Full Charged Voltage: 4.20V±0.05V, 50mA end-off current
8. Discharge End-off Voltage: 2.50 V
9. Max. Plus Discharge Current: 50.0A
10. Max. Constant Discharge Current: 30.0A
11. Initial Impedance: Max. 25mΩ
12. Weight: Approx. 90.0±1.0g
13. Dimension(D*H): Max.（D）26.20mm*（H）67.50mm
14. Operating temperature
Charging: 0℃~45℃
Discharging: -20℃~60℃
15. Storage temperature
1 year：-20～25°C
3 months：-30～45°C
16. Life: Over 2000 times charge & discharge cycle life

Hope this helps you guys out... I cannot attest to any issues in fit with any specific mods at this point.

Disclaimer: What you do with/to this battery is up to you. I remain irresponsible for any damage that ensues from negligent usage!

i bought 2 of these from RTD and they do NOT fit properly in the Hades or the Helmsman without auto-firing they're too long .....i did get them to work by adding o-rings to the top cap and bottom switch on the Hades and it makes the mod look like crap........performance wise they are very long lasting yet i never took them under 0.5.

 

[sando7]

Just to stir the pot for all of you wannabe battery safety experts, I am currently vaping at about .09 ohms on a VTC5 pulling 3-5 sec draws. Does that make your back hair tingle yet??


How bout now?

what's that song, you know; with melody and harmony playing in the back-ground "Livin on the Edge"

enjoy!

 

[bbrewer2005]

I've been running .11 myself on a 28ga quad micro coil setup. Been vaping this coil setup for about a month now on either vtc4 or mnke batteries and the mod itself gets warmer from the heat of my hands holding it for 10 minutes, than from the battery "heating up". I've never once felt or experienced a warm battery in any of my mods.
In all honesty, I wont go this low again, .3-.4 is my sweet spot, just built it to see if I would like it or not. The flavor did drop off a little for me. I dont really see a point in going this low. However, as long as your not using a cheap crappy battery, or inspecting your batteries before putting them in the tube, I dont see what the issue is if your just doing ~5 second or less drags.