Best place to purchase these batteries

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hangin1

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Hello all,

I was just wondering if anyone knew where I could purchase this particular battery other than from this supplier. The reason I am asking is I recently purchased a mod from someone on another forum and they sent me one of these batteries to use with it and it is an awesome battery in my opinion. Its size is perfect for the mod plus for my box mod I have. I normally used 14500 trustfire batteries but have found them to be a very tight fit in the box mod and will not even fit in the latest mod I got so I am on a quest to find these particular batteries somewhere else just based mainly on size. Well the batteries I am looking for are as follows:

900mAh lithium BATTERY for DS905 MOD_E-cigarette Battery_E-Cig accessories_TRUEMAN-Electronic Cigarette Wholesale and Retail DSE801 DSE901 DSE103 RN4081 DSE084 M401 510 USB PASSTHROUGH LIQUID -

Thanks in advance for any suggestions on finding them.
 

Drozd

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yeah they're sold for the 905 screwdriver knock off commercial mod...the 905 itself has the protection onboard...so it uses non protected 14500 batteries...

on a side note the AW 14500 seems slightly smaller than the ultrafires, but they're more expensive..

and now there's a high drain IMR 14500...so since those are LiMN they're safe chemistry so also aren't "protected" ...there's one vendor that has them currently..and AW IMR 14500s should be coming out in the near future
 

Drozd

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Drozd

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Anyone that uses un-protected batteries after everything that has been posted about them is just wanting trouble. I dont' care if there is supposed to be protection built into the PV. Are you willing to risk your face, teeth, maybe even life if you're hit just right? I'm not.

I think that's a bit unfair...there are those of us that understand our batteries and how to care for them and monitor them and in those cases using unprotected batteries really is a non issue...

then there are those that bargan shop for batteries and don't really understand them and buy them because they say "protected" and they can get them cheap from deal extreme in a 2 pack...

do they understand amp draw of certain atties at certain voltages...whether that exceeds the max drain rate of the batteries, C rate, how to figure max drain rate of that battery, roughly exactly how long a given battery will last with a given setup, what safe chemisty is, the difference between protected and fully protected or IC protection...

a huge percentage of people don't...yet we're so quick to simplify it down to protected versus unprotected and say that those using unprotected batteries are just inviting trouble?

heck people are still buying and stacking tenergy LiFePo batteries for 6V...just as bad...(they'll vent gas (just not flames) which in a sealed mod tends to shoot parts off...oh and have a max drain rate of <.55A, so they're overstressed which can cause battery failure...same as unprotected CR2 battteries (difference is because the CR2 are Li-Ion after they're done venting gas, they'll vent flame)...but it's that initial venting of gas that'll blow the atty off....

in every case of battery failure in a mod so far it has been extreme user error that directly led to the situation...much like the saying "guns don't kill people, people kill people"....batteries don't blow up, people blow batteries up..

I'm more in favor of regulating people than batteries...much like you have to pass a gun safety course to buy a handgun...you should have to pass a battery safety course to be able to buy a unit with user replaceable batteries....otherwise stock devices for you...
 
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Jules22871

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I think that's a bit unfair...there are those of us that understand our batteries and how to care for them and monitor them and in those cases using unprotected batteries really is a non issue...

then there are those that bargan shop for batteries and don't really understand them and buy them because they say "protected" and they can get them cheap from deal extreme in a 2 pack...

do they understand amp draw of certain atties at certain voltages...whether that exceeds the max drain rate of the batteries, C rate, how to figure max drain rate of that battery, roughly exactly how long a given battery will last with a given setup, what safe chemisty is, the difference between protected and fully protected or IC protection...

a huge percentage of people don't...yet we're so quick to simplify it down to protected versus unprotected and say that those using unprotected batteries are just inviting trouble?

heck people are still buying and stacking tenergy LiFePo batteries for 6V...just as bad...

You do have a valid point and I apologize for lumping everyone into one category like that. Yes, some people on here know a lot more about batteries than others and they do know how to safely use them.

But, most new people that start on PV mods don't have the knowledge that others do and they are playing Russian Roulette with them. I've been vaping for over a year and I have no clue about batteries. I know how to tell protected from unprotected and I know to not buy cheap. That is something that everyone should try to learn.

I should have said that new people that are not familiar with batteries are just asking for trouble when they use unprotected batteries. Again, sorry about lumping everyone together.
 

Drozd

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You do have a valid point and I apologize for lumping everyone into one category like that. Yes, some people on here know a lot more about batteries than others and they do know how to safely use them.

But, most new people that start on PV mods don't have the knowledge that others do and they are playing Russian Roulette with them. I've been vaping for over a year and I have no clue about batteries. I know how to tell protected from unprotected and I know to not buy cheap. That is something that everyone should try to learn.

I should have said that new people that are not familiar with batteries are just asking for trouble when they use unprotected batteries. Again, sorry about lumping everyone together.

And I apoligize if what I said came across as harsh....just the subject of batteries, protection, and the idea of spending upwards of $80+ on a mod and then cheaping out on batteries....are pet peeves of mine...

I have my list of batteries....and it's an amazingly short list....of batteries that I personally believe to be safe and of acceptable quality...running anything stacked and at HV is advanced but there still are some "safer" than the other battery options...it's become almost painful when I see the "will X battery work in the X mod I just bought" threads...

lol truth be told even the stock kit batteries aren't even the best for the job... it doesn't surprise me at all to see the "my eGo battery just died and is hot and smells like burt electronics" posts...or "my KR8 battery just died and smoke's coming out the tip".....totally in line with what to expect from them...


EDIT: as a side note...I agree that trusting on board protection in a PV like the 905 is NOT the way to go...
 
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Drozd

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Curious Drozd.....

What is your list?

my list of acceptable batteries?

for 3.7V... just about any 18650 size battery...my preference runs toward the AW 2600 (if your mod will work with flat tops) or the AW 2200...I prefer to stay away from the *fire brands as it's well documented in the flashlight community that the quality and truenes to their mAh ratings is a crapshoot of QC expecially the trustfire 2400 (grey) and the ultrafire 3000 (black + red)

Or the AW IMR 16340 LiMN for something in a CR123a size...mind you this is a safe chemistry battery so it's use is a little "advanced"

for 6V... the AW 3V 16340 LiFePo4 stacked..... again safe chemistry battery so somewhat "advanced" in it's usage

for 7.4V ...again the AW IMR 16340 LiMN but stacked..again a safe chemistry

as for 14500 batteries.... at this point the 14500 IMR 14500 LiMN that cloudsofVapor is carrying (currently the only one) ...eventually AW will release a 14500 IMR as well...

that's it.... the entire list.....

others may be ok depending on the atty...for example AW 14500s are ok if the resistance on the atty is over 3Ω (so not really the best for a 510 or LR 510 atty)
 
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UntamedRose

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Drozd

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first your first link didn't work but I found it...the short answer...they're the same battery....one with a pcb in it and the other without...so the first is considered "protected"..

but lets take that specific battery to illustrate my earlier points... they're ultrafire batteries which means they have a C rate of 1.5C...given the 880mAh we can figure that their max drain rate is 1.32A
now as for atties
at 3.7V...for a LR atty the amp draw is 2.47A
for a 510 the amp draw is 1.61A
for a 3Ω carto 1.23A

if stacked (that's be 7.4V)
for a 3Ω cartomizer it'd be 2.47A
for a 5.2Ω HR atty it'd be 1.42A

So...except for the carto at 3.7V (and even the carto is close)...the amp draw exceeds the max drain rate of the battery which can cause the battery to be overstressed and damage the battery....which can cause battery failure..

On the unprotected one...battery failure could be catastrophic....
On the protected one the PCB SHOULD stop the thermal runaway of the battery before it becomes catastrophic (mind you "should")
depends on the quality of the protection...theres a difference between protected and fully protected or IC protection... on some just an overcurrent/undercurrent protection is sufficient...which doesn't help for over temp, or overpressure, or shortcircuit..
 

Drozd

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Ya I know you just said you stay away from grey TF's but best example I have
What exactly does a "protected" battery look like?
Or am I just suppose to trust the supplier?

I missed this part about what they look like...protected batteries will have kind of a crimp near the positive end and a crimp at the negative end...and a wire that runs down the side..

figure it this way you got the actual cell in the center...then the PTC on the positive end (with little vents in the button) and then the PCB on the negative end...and a wire that runs the length and connects them...you can pretty much make them out under the shrink wrap...

if a battery were going to fail...from thermal runaway (being too hot) or being over pressure the PTC breaks and vents gas at the button top and since it breaks it disconnects that wire that runs along side and physically stops the reaction of the battery... the PCB shuts the battery off if it's over discharged and can be reset by putting the battery on the charger..

here this is worth a look: The anatomy of a Protected Battery - CandlePowerForums
and:
NEW Hi-current Protected R123s - CPFMarketPlace

sometimes pictures help
 

bsoplinger

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EDIT: as a side note...I agree that trusting on board protection in a PV like the 905 is NOT the way to go...

Is this why the DSE905 ships with unprotected batteries? Because the manufacturer says the PV has protection so the batteries don't need to be?

Of course when I got mine and saw they were unprotected I immediately swapped out the battery for protected 14500 I already had here.
 

Drozd

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Is this why the DSE905 ships with unprotected batteries? Because the manufacturer says the PV has protection so the batteries don't need to be?

Of course when I got mine and saw they were unprotected I immediately swapped out the battery for protected 14500 I already had here.

that's exactly why...the manufacturer put the protection in the PV...granted it also has (or had on older models) some sort of self cleaning mode on it too
 
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