I made a 28ga twisted coil to .9 ohm and instead of adding a wick I tilted the coil to one side is almost touching the bottom of the atty. This is awesome for testing flavors. It gives great flavor, and when the liquid runs out, there is no changing wicks for another flavor. Add the other flavor and its just as tasty as the one before with absolutely no leftover flavor. I used a 5/64 drill bit and wrapped the twisted 28ga about 9 times to get the .9 ohm. Definitely my favorite build so far! The coil wicks up the liquid perfectly.
Best way to test flavors - wickless
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That's how I have my omega built all the time now. Best and easiest way I've found... you won't get that much less time in between dripping with that or with the omega wicked...
37, ph0n3 h0m3.
37, ph0n3 h0m3.
I can't believe I have not seen that before. Great idea for us DIY juicers! Thanks for posting that!
Wickless atomizers are available. About $4. I have about 7 so I can test taste about 7 juices at once.
well, maybe that's an answer to the ongoing cotton, silica, wool, ss, and more....... debate..........
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What kind of vapor production do you get on this? I've been playing with dripping for a little while, but I dunno if I can take the taste of burnt cotton anymore. Gotten better, but taking out the middle-man sounds awesome.
I tried this same thing about a year ago for DIY juice testing, but was never able to get it to work properly. Looks like you have the neg leg resting right on the deck and your coils is heading to the positive lead at approximately 45deg. Is it actually wicking e-liquid, or are you having to tilt to partially submerge the coil? Sorry, for all the questions, but i have always been intrigued with this for DIY testing and would really like to give it another go with a bit more knowledge.
Do you think adding a super small SS mesh wick would help to keep the coil saturated without defeating the purpose?
Do you think adding a super small SS mesh wick would help to keep the coil saturated without defeating the purpose?
I've used old atty's for this. Since they are kindof archaic and sit in a drawer, they are great for testing. I hate wasting a whole clearo or cart for a flavor I don't like and can't get rid of the taste. I use the old 510 atty's. Sometimes I use old clearos for the same thing.
Sorry, i don't want folks to think i'm trying to hijack this thread,but after reading "dunno if I can take the taste of burnt cotton anymore" I have to share some advice i learned awhile back about organic fiber wicks.
I don't exactly remember where/who i learned it from, (one of the super senior ECF members) but cotton (and i am assuming any kiln dried organic fibers well) is dried to an extremely low moisture content. Meaning the cells themselves are completely void free water, and are 94% void of bound water (assuming they dry cotton down to 6%MC). I'm sure you've read here and elsewhere that organic fibers swell a lot, that's why. Where am i going with this? Well, with cotton use a lot less than you think is necessary (l took 1/2 away from what i thought looked right from my first build, and it helped a lot.) the second part to the equation: saturate the cotton with liquid, and let it sit long enough for the cells themselves to drink up. (usually an hour minimum for me, but overnight is better). When the wick is initially saturated it looks like it's ready for immediate use, it's not though. Within the first few seconds of heat all the surface moisture will evaporate and all that's left are completely dry and very scorchable fibers. Allowing the fibers to adsorb liquid to the point where free water is back in the cells creates in essence a heat sink, and scorching becomes pretty hard to accomplish. It's kind of like throwing a freshly cut green log onto a campfire (lots of sizzle and very little burn) vs. throwing on a piece of seasoned firewood that was just rained on (burns great after the surface moisture has evaporated).
I hope that helps out a bit, please don't give up on the organic fiber wicks quite yet.
That all being said, if i can get this wickless option working well, I would be really happy, and it would save a ton of time in DIY R&D
I don't exactly remember where/who i learned it from, (one of the super senior ECF members) but cotton (and i am assuming any kiln dried organic fibers well) is dried to an extremely low moisture content. Meaning the cells themselves are completely void free water, and are 94% void of bound water (assuming they dry cotton down to 6%MC). I'm sure you've read here and elsewhere that organic fibers swell a lot, that's why. Where am i going with this? Well, with cotton use a lot less than you think is necessary (l took 1/2 away from what i thought looked right from my first build, and it helped a lot.) the second part to the equation: saturate the cotton with liquid, and let it sit long enough for the cells themselves to drink up. (usually an hour minimum for me, but overnight is better). When the wick is initially saturated it looks like it's ready for immediate use, it's not though. Within the first few seconds of heat all the surface moisture will evaporate and all that's left are completely dry and very scorchable fibers. Allowing the fibers to adsorb liquid to the point where free water is back in the cells creates in essence a heat sink, and scorching becomes pretty hard to accomplish. It's kind of like throwing a freshly cut green log onto a campfire (lots of sizzle and very little burn) vs. throwing on a piece of seasoned firewood that was just rained on (burns great after the surface moisture has evaporated).
I hope that helps out a bit, please don't give up on the organic fiber wicks quite yet.
That all being said, if i can get this wickless option working well, I would be really happy, and it would save a ton of time in DIY R&D
This...........was a great post! Thanks, it makes a lot if sense.Sorry, i don't want folks to think i'm trying to hijack this thread,but after reading "dunno if I can take the taste of burnt cotton anymore" I have to share some advice i learned awhile back about organic fiber wicks.
I don't exactly remember where/who i learned it from, (one of the super senior ECF members) but cotton (and i am assuming any kiln dried organic fibers well) is dried to an extremely low moisture content. Meaning the cells themselves are completely void free water, and are 94% void of bound water (assuming they dry cotton down to 6%MC). I'm sure you've read here and elsewhere that organic fibers swell a lot, that's why. Where am i going with this? Well, with cotton use a lot less than you think is necessary (l took 1/2 away from what i thought looked right from my first build, and it helped a lot.) the second part to the equation: saturate the cotton with liquid, and let it sit long enough for the cells themselves to drink up. (usually an hour minimum for me, but overnight is better). When the wick is initially saturated it looks like it's ready for immediate use, it's not though. Within the first few seconds of heat all the surface moisture will evaporate and all that's left are completely dry and very scorchable fibers. Allowing the fibers to adsorb liquid to the point where free water is back in the cells creates in essence a heat sink, and scorching becomes pretty hard to accomplish. It's kind of like throwing a freshly cut green log onto a campfire (lots of sizzle and very little burn) vs. throwing on a piece of seasoned firewood that was just rained on (burns great after the surface moisture has evaporated).
I hope that helps out a bit, please don't give up on the organic fiber wicks quite yet.
That all being said, if i can get this wickless option working well, I would be really happy, and it would save a ton of time in DIY R&D
Sorry, i don't want folks to think i'm trying to hijack this thread,but after reading "dunno if I can take the taste of burnt cotton anymore" I have to share some advice i learned awhile back about organic fiber wicks.
I don't exactly remember where/who i learned it from, (one of the super senior ECF members) but cotton (and i am assuming any kiln dried organic fibers well) is dried to an extremely low moisture content. Meaning the cells themselves are completely void free water, and are 94% void of bound water (assuming they dry cotton down to 6%MC). I'm sure you've read here and elsewhere that organic fibers swell a lot, that's why. Where am i going with this? Well, with cotton use a lot less than you think is necessary (l took 1/2 away from what i thought looked right from my first build, and it helped a lot.) the second part to the equation: saturate the cotton with liquid, and let it sit long enough for the cells themselves to drink up. (usually an hour minimum for me, but overnight is better). When the wick is initially saturated it looks like it's ready for immediate use, it's not though. Within the first few seconds of heat all the surface moisture will evaporate and all that's left are completely dry and very scorchable fibers. Allowing the fibers to adsorb liquid to the point where free water is back in the cells creates in essence a heat sink, and scorching becomes pretty hard to accomplish. It's kind of like throwing a freshly cut green log onto a campfire (lots of sizzle and very little burn) vs. throwing on a piece of seasoned firewood that was just rained on (burns great after the surface moisture has evaporated).
I hope that helps out a bit, please don't give up on the organic fiber wicks quite yet.
That all being said, if i can get this wickless option working well, I would be really happy, and it would save a ton of time in DIY R&D
THANK YOU!!! I'd never thought of that before, but it does make a lot of sense. My issue was always when playing around with wattages or just sitting on the couch with a dripper and taking one drag too many. A nasty sizzle and a feeling in my throat like I just swallowed an ember was...less than pleasant
I'll have to give this a try.I would say medium vapor production. Mine is a .9 ohm so its not super hot. I'm running it at 20 watts on the hana. Its more of a "long toke" than short drag type setup. The taste is AMAZING. The only way these juices could taste any better is if you could drink them.
If you get a "stubborn" flavor that leaves some residue, all it takes is a quick rinse under water to get rid of it.
That is exactly the setup. The neg lead is very close to the deck (probably one strand off) and the positive is tilted at a 45. I don't believe the juice is actually being wicked, but is turning to vapor while on the deck. When the juice is all vaped up, the coil will turn red. But instead of getting a burned wick hit, its just a no vapor "warm" hit
Last question, I promise I tried this yesterday, but couldn't get it to vaporize much of anything. Too little juice and it just went hot. Too much and it seemed to boil almost with little to no vapor. Any chance you guys could post pics from different angles? Please and thank you of course.
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I tried this yesterday, but couldn't get it to vaporize much of anything. Too little juice and it just went hot. Too much and it seemed to boil almost with little to no vapor. Any chance you guys could post pics from different angles? Please and thank you of course. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Last question, I promise
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Spewny here are a few pics for you. Again this coil is .9 ohm @ 20 watts. The negative lead is tilted up a little. If you put any more than a few drops it seems to "flood" the coil and not produce much vapor (seems to just sizzle the juice). I am dropping 3-4 drops on the coil and before I hit it I tilt it so the juice runs away from the coil and it isn't sitting in juice. When it runs dry I tilt it so the juice runs back to the coil, then before the hit I tilt it to run the juice back away from the coil. It produces great taste and vapor as long as the coil isn't soaking in the juice. Hope this helps.
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Got bored and tried this on a IGO W with dual coils at apprx .8ohms.
Wow! Great idea for sampling.
I would wage with the right device and coil build one could make a viable regular use wickless set up
Wow! Great idea for sampling.
I would wage with the right device and coil build one could make a viable regular use wickless set up
I wonder if a twisted micro coil would wick better for a wickless setup... anyone tried it?
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