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hi kinabaloo - it's going well. I'm gonna press the mix I made last night.
Any advances on your front?
Any advances on your front?
Snuff mix squeezed out. The idea of placing a small amount of the mix (half a teaspoon) in the centre of a piece cloth and gathering this up to make a leak-proof bag for the garlic-crusher is a good one. Worked well and I now have 8 fairly dry briquettes (waste).
They looked like matte chocolate blocks when they came out - somewhere between the light colour of the dry snuff and the dark oil - I'm just drying a couple off on the heater. The oil looks dark - but it is not clear (this is the problem with fine ground tobacco).
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Yes - mixed in with the snuff and the sodium carbonate solution.
In case I didn't mention it before, I think the reason extra carbonate powder in the mash is good is that it compensates for dilution by water content of the tobacco.
slopes - that should clean it up a lot - remove the suspended solids. I guess it's pretty slow though ?
slopes - that should clean it up a lot - remove the suspended solids. I guess it's pretty slow though ?
I through some extra carbonate powder into the mash as I was mixing it all together - following your suggestion.
The oil is sitting now, and the silt is slowly moving to the bottom. I might bottle it and try a centrifugal spin.
The oil is sitting now, and the silt is slowly moving to the bottom. I might bottle it and try a centrifugal spin.
I guess super fine particulates or something is crystalizing out. Or a suspension of alkaloid liquid droplets, fat or water even. Nothing to worry about I think. But worth noting.
Hopefully the acidic extraction goes well.
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btw : after shake, let it separate a bit - say 5 mins. See how much color is transferred and repeat 2 or 3 times or until the colors no longer change.
What i found is that most colored stuff transfers to the acidic water but a little yellow color remains in the oil, yet the original green tint of the oil can be made out. The acidic water layer should become much darker than the oil - at least that was my experience (5 shake ups over 1/2 hour).
If after several shakes the color has not mostly transferred, it could be because the acid is too weak.
Hopefully the acidic extraction goes well.
~~
btw : after shake, let it separate a bit - say 5 mins. See how much color is transferred and repeat 2 or 3 times or until the colors no longer change.
What i found is that most colored stuff transfers to the acidic water but a little yellow color remains in the oil, yet the original green tint of the oil can be made out. The acidic water layer should become much darker than the oil - at least that was my experience (5 shake ups over 1/2 hour).
If after several shakes the color has not mostly transferred, it could be because the acid is too weak.
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That was also what I found. But just add a little for now. Do the shake and let settle for 5 mins. Ideally, we'd check the pH of the water after the settle.
Well the water is looking to be a deep orange (when back-lit), and the silt seems to be staying up in the oil layer. This is good, yes? BTW, the water added is about a quarter that of the oil.
I think one could make some ph indicator paper like this:
Get some fresh red cabbage or beetroot (not the stuff in vinegar). Cut through and press the cut edge onto some paper. Let the paper dry.
One could then use a toothpic to put a drop of liquid on the paper.
Violet / purple to red indicates acidic. Blue to green indicates alkaline (basic).
Note that these colors are colors of the indicator (anthocyanins in the vegetable juice). The colors of a liquid itself are not necessarily indicative of pH.
A pH of 7 is neutral - neither acidic nor alkaline.
Low numbers are acidic. Higher numbers are alkaline.
Get some fresh red cabbage or beetroot (not the stuff in vinegar). Cut through and press the cut edge onto some paper. Let the paper dry.
One could then use a toothpic to put a drop of liquid on the paper.
Violet / purple to red indicates acidic. Blue to green indicates alkaline (basic).
Note that these colors are colors of the indicator (anthocyanins in the vegetable juice). The colors of a liquid itself are not necessarily indicative of pH.
A pH of 7 is neutral - neither acidic nor alkaline.
Low numbers are acidic. Higher numbers are alkaline.
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Sounds great. I do the back lighting too, with the base of a lava lamp.
How about the ratio of colors now? Is the oil still quite dark ?
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