Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More

bombastinator

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Good morning my ECF family, I have various mods with dna chips inside. The latest was the bbm. I also have a Thor II mod with a chip inside of it.... what to do, what to do? Any ideas guys?
Are you gonna pull them out and put them in boros then? If so idk love to know how it goes. I’ve got 2 dna lostvapes that are broken that I never threw away, and getting something useful out of them would be nice.
 

bombastinator

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Ah. “Friction fit”
From the responses maybe Im missing something here. There’s something other than ludicrous marketing renaming going on? The issues with proprietary coils were diameter, height, and electrical connection. And thread, if there was one.
 
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BillW50

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The issues with proprietary coils were diameter, height, and electrical connection. And thread, if there was one.

Oh there are still plenty of proprietary coils out there that are not compatible with anything else. And lots of proprietary coils use the push and pull design today. But there is only one called a PnP coil. Although what seems to happen is one proprietary coil ends up outselling everyone else. Then others wanting to cash in on the success end up making devices that is compatible with them. There has been about a half dozen proprietary coils that has reached this success over the years.
 

bombastinator

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Oh there are still plenty of proprietary coils out there that are not compatible with anything else. And lots of proprietary coils use the push and pull design today. But there is only one called a PnP coil. Although what seems to happen is one proprietary coil ends up outselling everyone else. Then others wanting to cash in on the success end up making devices that is compatible with them. There has been about a half dozen proprietary coils that has reached this success over the years.
So a semi-standard and only for the time being. It’s more a bot spot than a standard. Bot spot is how 510 became a standard. Companies started advertising that they used it and sales went up as a result. So it could happen. Boro has apparently become a standard as well. One I missed. Standards win, except where they are deliberately stamped out like with RGB computer fans. There was a standard. Then it was destroyed on purpose. Even then they come back though. There are currently Sort of two. They need another 5 years I think. Or the industry will get together and attempt to stamp it out again and waste another 15 years. The lighting industry had already gone through this 100 years ago, which was why the first stomped on standard was created in the first place. Sometimes people just have to learn the hard way.
 
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dwcraig1

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Rincoe Baby AIO has arrived. Works as i t should. A 2000 mAh is my usual choice with 18650 cell so 1500 mAh should be just fine. A heavy little sucker.

I had a little trouble figuring what's the difference is between Power mode and RBA mode. It seems that Power mode starts out with a recommendation for wattage setting though you can still over ride it.

The drop in coils looks kind of beefy, I'm going to try the lesser wattage one.
 

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crss

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    bombastinator

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    One of my bmm clones just committed suicide this morning. Going to try
    Advanced Adhesive Systems AAS 5300 All Purpose High Strength MMA Adhesive. Now what to daily, haha
    Plastic? I recommend melted staples. Adhesive science has changed a lot though lately.
     

    dwcraig1

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    Just how true this is I'm not sure. I made a comment to another member recently that if the flush nut was tightened with a tool that there is probably 5X the force from that than from the battery. Then of coarse plus the force from the battery.
    I've considered mine could break just from tightening the flush nut.
     

    ShamrockPat

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    I've considered mine could break just from tightening the flush nut.
    I get the lowest and most stable resistance readings using the standard SXK or Monarchy flushnut, tightened (not Superman tight) with a Nickel. They have so many more threads, my integrated have like 3 maybe 4 (OG BMM)
     

    englishmick

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    I get the lowest and most stable resistance readings using the standard SXK or Monarchy flushnut, tightened (not Superman tight) with a Nickel. They have so many more threads, my integrated have like 3 maybe 4 (OG BMM)
    My SXK BB likewise. I use the same coil in it as I have in KFL's on various mods but the resistance always shows lower and stays rock solid.

    I use a quarter to tighten the nut though.
     
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    bombastinator

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    Just how true this is I'm not sure. I made a comment to another member recently that if the flush nut was tightened with a tool that there is probably 5X the force from that than from the battery. Then of coarse plus the force from the battery.
    I've considered mine could break just from tightening the flush nut.
    Injection molding is fundamentally stronger, because it’s molded under pressure, but it often uses lower grade materials. It’s possible to use extremely strange stuff when 3d printing. Stuff that doesn’t commonly get used with injection molding.
     

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