BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[rolf]

hi all !
playing with some switch ideas for okr t10 bottom feeder .and would like some comments on it
hope the link to the video will work .
thanks quigs for the idea to use reley contacts. used 10 amp ones .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ay2eMssqAk

 

[Kataphraktos]

don't you have some pistachios to tend to?

Stephen Colbert did not approve this message.

 

[opensec]

mmm. pistachio, that would make a pretty decent juice flavor wouldn'it?

 

[KurrptSenate]

mmm. pistachio, that would make a pretty decent juice flavor wouldn'it?

POET has a pretty good pistachio flavor

 

[opensec]

talkin about juice, I tasted yesterday for the first time the suicide bunny, mother milk and .... hated it, this sweet creamy stuff is just awfull to me, was expecting better after all I've heard about it but it is far far from being as good as my homemade blueberry cola

 

[KurrptSenate]

yea, that stuff isn't very good

I do like some creamy vapes from time to time. that's just not a very good example

 

[opensec]

anyway, I felt it was one more step on my vaping journey, I've tasted the#1 juice and didn't like it

 

[KurrptSenate]

it is pretty popular

I'd say cuttwood might be more popular and much better

 

[CaptSteve]

All is quiet on the thread so I presume you're all building frantically

 

[TheBikeGuy]

I usually use unflavored nic. I have cappuccino, double chocolate, and peppermint candy flavor drops if I feel like getting all crazy with it.

 

[EagleTa2]

All is quiet on the thread so I presume you're all building frantically

Not yet, but soon!

Got my board from Evolv today and bought c&k tact switches (gold contact) for $.85 ea
Thought I had wire at work, but didn't have the 24ga. I have a pile of wire at home but not sure what the gauge is...

Been sketching up a few scaled drawings of the mod body... Damn, I wish I understood Google Sketchup! It would be much easier to change ideas than doing it the old school way. Heres the latest idea:

you could consider it an E7 Zero hybrid.
The top, right side and bottom would form the inner assembly. DNA mounted on the right side with a tact fire button on the angled corner (where my thumb lands) Then use a separator and the battery...another separator and the bottle/atty on the left.

I am considering making a zero style shell to slide the inner assembly into that would secure with magnets. it will have a full radius on the left side and a dibi style squonk hole. To remove the battery and bottle yu just have to slide the shell off and you have full access.

The top view will have the DNA/Button side be square and the attty side with a complementary radius.


Please share your thoughts. back to drawing... by hand

thanks
Geo

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

EagleTa2, my opinion is go with the zero style. I am actually thinking of building one like that. That layout is just perfect. I love it. The E7 style is not for me. I don't like the way it looks and how big it is. If I were you go with Zero style and get me some pics and build details ASAP. Of course mine would be mechanical. I'm a mechanical bottom feeder guy, no boards for me.

-Mark

 

[EagleTa2]

HI Mark

I will share my drawings with you no problem... What I am struggling with right now is how to fab the shell part out of corian. I could slice and plane to a predetermined thickness then try to bend... or start with a solid block and machine it.

I am leaning on bending right now - sure would be easier to use .062 alum with a wood veneer.

The only part of the E7 styling I am using is the angled top right corner (above the firing button) and that is where my fire button will go.

Right now the mod is measuring 2.25" wide on the outsides... do you think that will be too wide?

 

[CoalCreek]

HI Mark

I will share my drawings with you no problem... What I am struggling with right now is how to fab the shell part out of corian. I could slice and plane to a predetermined thickness then try to bend... or start with a solid block and machine it.

I am leaning on bending right now - sure would be easier to use .062 alum with a wood veneer.

I've had an interest in thermoforming Corian for a while but haven't taken a stab at it yet. I've seen some interesting videos of strips heated, tied into knots and cooled. Chairs formed. It looks interesting. Seems to really stay put after it cools. It's an interesting property.

I'm also interested in Kydex (used for holsters) which has similar properties. One method used there is wrapping the material around the mold while hot, placing into a vacuum bag and pulling it down tight against the mold until it cools. Oftentimes they just use foam and clamp pressure. I think a Kydex mod would be cool if for nothing more than the click it would make when snapped into place, but not sure I'd like much more about the mod than just that click.

Just a couple things that nag at me now and then but I haven't tried yet. You might be way ahead on the thermoforming but thought I'd mention it.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

HI Mark

I will share my drawings with you no problem... What I am struggling with right now is how to fab the shell part out of corian. I could slice and plane to a predetermined thickness then try to bend... or start with a solid block and machine it.

I am leaning on bending right now - sure would be easier to use .062 alum with a wood veneer.

The only part of the E7 styling I am using is the angled top right corner (above the firing button) and that is where my fire button will go.

Right now the mod is measuring 2.25" wide on the outsides... do you think that will be too wide?

The aluminum and veneer would be so much easier, BUT you should look up the thermoforming of corian. I'm betting that you can pull it off for the mod. And I think corian mods are bad a**.

Btw- 2.25" in length isn't too bad. I'd roll with that. Although I'm used to my Peko's.. so tiny, yet so powerful.

Hope to see your corian zero soon!!

-Mark

 

[CoalCreek]

Also, on reducing Corian (and other materials) sheet thickness, I did that recently on a piece for a couple mod doors. Since I was doing several square inches I made a makeshift router planing sled. I didn't assemble a permanent sled. Really just stacked some things (other Corian slices, actually) until I had a makeshift sled to run the router back and forth on, clamped it all down, adjusted the bit height and went to work. I took it down to maybe 3/16 thick in a few minutes with no issues at all. It remains rigid and stable at that thickness.

Good video on the planing sled here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M

 

[Mark Howard]

Hey guys (& gals), I've been hoping to not ask noob questions here, but I have been doing some research and am still conflicted.
I'm going to start making some mods. I can't tell you all how inspired I've been by following this thread and the awesome work you all do. Going to do quite a bit with wood, but still need to be able to handle some basic metal work too. Just not sure what the best machine(s) will be for me to get started. Obviously, I'd hope to acquire all the tools a shop would want for versatility, but $ is a factor.
Not sure if getting a mini mill would be best, vs say a dp with x-y table, router, etc.
could I get some recommendations on what would give me the most versatile setup to get going, without wasting $ on a tool I'll no longer use once I get further down the road?
Many thanks in advance!

 

[CaptSteve]

Mark it all depends on how "serious" a workshop you want to make for yourself. You could go with a drill press with an X-Y table but be warned that drill presses aren't designed to handle the side loads from milling so that setup probably won't last if you do lots of milling. Ideally a milling machine is the way to go but obviously it all depends on your budget

 

[CaptSteve]

I hate to think that this thread is implying that to make decent mods you need really expensive machinery. Most of us who buy these elaborate machines have been into tinkering, DIYing and making stuff for years so the expense is somewhat more justified in that this isn't a new hobby which may not last.

I highly recommend that anyone contemplating taking the plunge and emptying your wallet at Grizzly's or any other such fine purveyors of boyz toyz you ask yourself if this is really for you.

If you believe it is then go for it but if you have any nagging doubts then hold off because the outlay is quite big and resale value of most heavy machinery is pretty lousy

 

[Roscoe01]

I hate to think that this thread is implying that to make decent mods you need really expensive machinery. Most of us who buy these elaborate machines have been into tinkering, DIYing and making stuff for years so the expense is somewhat more justified in that this isn't a new hobby which may not last.

I highly recommend that anyone contemplating taking the plunge and emptying your wallet at Grizzly's or any other such fine purveyors of boyz toyz you ask yourself if this is really for you.

If you believe it is then go for it but if you have any nagging doubts then hold off because the outlay is quite big and resale value of most heavy machinery is pretty lousy

Agreed. A good drill press is a very versatile tool and will be useful above and beyond hobby stuff. I have found thru experience that jobs can be accomplished with a variety of tools but the right tool for the job increases the speed at which it can be completed. With enough patience you can carve a masterpiece mod with a knife!

It all has to do with your budget and future anticipated needs imho.