BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[Mark Howard]

Thanks for the input Capt. I agree on all counts. I spent most all of my adult life working either on the road or in the center of a major city, so never a chance to have a garage, let alone a shop. Grew up with my step dad having a nice wood shop in the garage for a couple years, but he left it once we moved. I've always been into building, quite a bit with wood, and exposure to many others while earning a BFA, but am finally, finally not only settled, but getting a shop space to continue building. I have quite a bit for larger scale building, mainly with wood so far. Haven't build nice, small objects since high school though. My patina shop is small and is mostly chemicals, not tools.

Not that I need to justify the expense, but I am quite serious about building a shop. I'm in the fortunate situation of having left my previous career to stay home and care for my son during the day. My goal is continue growing the little biz I started this past year, so by the time he starts going to school I'll be dialed in and ready to go full time. I only talk about ecig stuff here, but there are quite a few other areas I've been building this year as well. I think I've far since exhausted the limits of my Dremel and other tools I've used in unique ways to get things done.

That said, I do plan on doing a bit of milling. Not making metal mods so much, but parts for mods and cutting sheets of Al, Cu, etc; all pretty light duty. I've seen some folks milling out their wood sometimes, and it looks intriguing, although I see to get a mill with that speed capability is a bump up. I'm looking to spend around $1500, keep in mind that includes, bits, clamps, and any other accessories. Been scoping the local used market since this thread was started; nothing close has popped up and I don't have the space for a big mill.

Am I asking for too much from one machine? Maybe a mini mill and a nice router setup?

 

[custom-classic]

Can't go wrong with this little set-up here:

HiTorque Mini Mill, Solid Column with Air Spring and Tooling Package 4981


Lots of support for this one and easy to cnc if you ever wanted to, down the road...

 

[CaptSteve]

Mark as I said there are two basic options a) a decent drill press and and x-y table and b) a small milling machine. Frankly if you go the drill press route then I recommend a good quality drill press otherwise you'll have the problems I had with my China press and beware of branding because some branded drill presses are actually cheap China presses.
On the other hand an entry level small milling machine won't be much more expensive than the good press and x-y table. If I were you I'd do some price research and take it from there. It also depends on what kind of Z travel you need. Most entry level milling machines don't have too much Z travel.

As I said do your research and feel free to ask us about your findings so we can help you out.

 

[CaptSteve]

Also bear in mind that tooling and accessories bring up the bill big time. A good milling vice for example can be $250-350 easy

 

[Mark Howard]

Thanks again guys. I've been looking long and hard at the fixed mill with tool package from LMS, the one CC just linked to. My only hesitation was that if I spent that much on the setup, it would have to be able to do some wood work for me. Seems it's done but not a common practice. Curious if you guys give your machines double duty or just have multiple machines for either task.

 

[CaptSteve]

On that note let me say that next week I have a weeks vacation and I'm spending it in the workshop refurbishing the place and making new workbenches because it's a mess. Planning to make one full wall with workstations for the mill, lathe, sanders and drill press. Then I'm relocation my table saw and extending the outfeed table to a workbench and router station. And I have to find a good spot for the bandsaw.
Fun for all the family
And obviously I'll sneak in a couple new mods with all that fine wood stash I have. As the subject was brought up just last week and to please my buddy Turbo I'll finish the next few mods with Danish Oil instead of lacquer.

 

[CaptSteve]

My milling machine has cut everything you can imagine and some things you can't No problem at all milling wood just clean up frequently or attach your shop vac

 

[CaptSteve]

BTW on the subject of oil finishes I was sorting threw my stock and found an amazing oil I used to swear by and will be great for mods because it contains lacquer as well and creates a great oil finish with the protection of lacquer. It's applied easily by hand rubbing and 4 coats will result in an amazing finish with most woods. It's non other than TRU OIL from Birchwood Casey

Edit I guess I should also tell you how to apply it. I used to sand to 600 grit, remove all dust with compressed air then apply the first coat with a paper towel. Let it sit 10 min then wipe off all excess. Allow sufficient drying time may be even 24 hours in cold humid conditions. Then before you apply the second coat once dry lightly sand with fine steel wool and blow off again any dust. Repeat the process to 4 coats only on the last coat don't wipe off any excess as it's the final coat then lightly sand with fine steel wool and polish.
Amazing results. It's used by guitar makers and gunsmiths as well

 

[Quigsworth]

Here's my first project on the lathe...I un-did my 3 cocktail bf'ing job on my Lancia by making a new pin...it's brass but I figured I should wreak that instead of sterling silver...



...pretty impressed with that lathe, next to no lash in anything, the factory adjustments where almost spot on...

I really have no idea what I'm doing but lathing is fun...

 

[custom-classic]

Oh hell yeah, quigs!!! Nice work.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

Quigs that's awesome!! That post looks factory done!


-Mark

 

[turbocad6]

those lathes are great for a beginner because they have a safety built in that if you jam it up or crash it it releases the spindle... first time it hapens you'll think you broke it because the motor spins but the chuck doesn't, but it resets itself, kinda like a circuit breaker or a fuse. that's something I like about my southbend, it's belt drive so it's more forgiving of mistakes, belt slips instead of breaking stuff if you jamb it up

also I probably shouldn't have to tell you but since a lot of guys here are new to machinery like this and have no formal training I'll say this here, and if there's any one thing that everyone should be taught before using machinery like this is SAFETY FIRST.

learn to respect these machines because they can injure you seriously and in a split second, no jewlery or long sleeves and think... when I was younger I'd dismiss this with a yeah yeah, I know, and then still not think much of it but seriously... google lathe accidents or mill accidents or saw accidents, you'll probably see a bunch of really stomach turning stuff but honestly I think that anyone who's going to start playing with stuff like this should see those images and remember these images every time you go into the shop. a big lathe can grind you up like chop meat, pop your skull like a grape... even a tiny 7X can take fingers off in a heartbeat.

 

[Quigsworth]

Good...no, great advice Turbo.

I'll be the first to admit I'm a weekend warrior on these types of tools...I've got 30+ yrs of construction/electrical experience and can perform surgery with a skill saw, but mills and lathes are some scary toys

I recently had a accident with my table saw...in a hurry, one quick cut...didn't bother setting up feather boards, the piece bucked, jumped out of my hands and I nicely shaved about 1.5 mm off the tip of my right index finger, I was at my cottage, alone, I was bleeding so bad I started getting shocky...Crazy Glue time (you think alcohol hurts )

make no mistake...I fear the tools.

 

[DavidOH]

Well done Quigs. Better than new.

Anybody replace the O-rings on the Lancia? Got mine set up and it works great. But had to stop using it because the top cap is so loose it will not stay on. Have to hit the hardware store and if I can't find O-rings that will work I'll be looking for another atty.

 

[Roscoe01]

Well done Quigs. Better than new.

Anybody replace the O-rings on the Lancia? Got mine set up and it works great. But had to stop using it because the top cap is so loose it will not stay on. Have to hit the hardware store and if I can't find O-rings that will work I'll be looking for another atty.

Try the plastic cap. Seems to be tighter and seems to get better with use. I think the orings swell a little with use.

 

[DavidOH]

Try the plastic cap. Seems to be tighter and seems to get better with use. I think the orings swell a little with use.

Tried it and it's not any better.

Tried the floss fix also. Didn't work. The problem is the O-rings are not stiff enough.

 

[Quigsworth]

Well done Quigs. Better than new.

Anybody replace the O-rings on the Lancia? Got mine set up and it works great. But had to stop using it because the top cap is so loose it will not stay on. Have to hit the hardware store and if I can't find O-rings that will work I'll be looking for another atty.

You can always do the dental floss fix, or you can also cut the little finger off a nitril glove and cut skinny rubber bands to put under the o ring.

Playing a bit more in an attempt to decrease the chamber size...I think I've got the Lancia chamber as small as it can get.



I cut the glass down by 4mm, I took 1mm off the underside of the top cap, and I also took away half of the height of the pins so I could lower the coils. For aesthetics I took 1.5mm off the top of the top cap I removed the lip on the deck...all in it's almost 8mm shorter in height than stock plus a pretty significant amping of flavour.

 

[EagleTa2]

FWIW..on the topic of tools and setting up a shop... I have outfitted a pretty modest wood shop, but still do not have any x-y travel.

I have a shopsmith and have used it for the better part of 23 years. It is a small package and very versatile... you can pick up a good used one for $500 and up. With the SS, you ge a 10" table saw, 12" disc sander, horizontal boring machine, 34" lathe, and vertical drill press.

The down side is you have to do a bit more planning when doing projects but after working with it for so long it becomes second nature. That, and switching from the vertical drill press to the table saw (the most complicated change over) takes less than 30 seconds. I also have planers, jointers, routers, a band saw, a scroll saw, various sanders...etc. All of this was acquired over the years with the primary purpose of a woodworking hobby and home repairs. So, for wood - I am set.

The shopsmith could probably handle milling if I could get my spindle speeds slow enough (possible with a speed reducer) but I do not want to stress out the bearings and still do not have easy x-y movement.

I am VERY interested in the praxis micro mill... I know one of you guys have one, but for the life of me I cant remember who.
I seriously only intent to mill small things...like mods...so do not see needing a Bridgeport or anything.

What could I expect to spend on one of those micro mills if I were fortunate enough to find one used? Even the LMS and grizzly small models seem like more than I would need.

thanks
Geo

 

[custom-classic]

Pm sent, Geo.

 

[JohnnyDill]

I cut the glass down by 4mm

Quigs, how did you cut the glass down? I gotta know as this is a great idea. I want to get a few of those Lancias and do the same thing. Looks great!