Thanks Rob and may I say for the benefit of everyone here that Rob is preparing a killer mod (which I've seen) which will blow everyone away. Waiting for final pictures of your beauty brother
I wish it was me doing it but my wife won't let me near her toolkit and screwdrivers... it's being built by a master craftsman (Wood actually and he is now tinkering with metal) in Knysna... it looks like I may get it in my paws in the next few days! Whooo! Can't wait to show the world!
Just to throw in my 2 cents worth about finishing wood.
An oil finish can look awesome and is the easiest to repair if the wood get's scuffed or scraped down the road.
But you need to use the correct oil blend. In the custom knife and gun industries, Tru-Oil is well thought of. It is available in most sporting goods departments where they carry rifles and shotguns. Instead of me typing instructions here is a video of a friend and how he finishes a knife handle using tru-oil. It is a labor intensive process to do it correctly but the results are worth the effort. The guy in the video (Nick Wheeler) is one of the very best in the world of high end custom knives with his handle finishing. This method works well with almost all hardwoods and stabilized wood.
i have been doing a lot of work with CA lately and yes the gel stuff works really good for what you are looking to do. the gel loctite brand works pretty darn good if you are looking for something local.
let me know what you think of the gap fill stuff. which brand did you get? Hot Stuff?
yeah I got the Hot Stuff....which I used today on my buttons but unfortunately my impatience bit me again so I had to re-glue. I bought 3 versions and have been using the original to stabilize the spalted maple. Put the first clear coat on tonight . I like it more than I thought I would.
Just to throw in my 2 cents worth about finishing wood.
An oil finish can look awesome and is the easiest to repair if the wood get's scuffed or scraped down the road.
But you need to use the correct oil blend. In the custom knife and gun industries, Tru-Oil is well thought of. It is available in most sporting goods departments where they carry rifles and shotguns. Instead of me typing instructions here is a video of a friend and how he finishes a knife handle using tru-oil. It is a labor intensive process to do it correctly but the results are worth the effort. The guy in the video (Nick Wheeler) is one of the very best in the world of high end custom knives with his handle finishing. This method works well with almost all hardwoods and stabilized wood.
I need your help guys, I tried to power up the DNA-40 and it's dead as a dodo. I've wired it as per the wiring diagram and when I connect the bat+ and bat- to my battery I get nada (yes I did connect the correct poles).
My question is this. Shouldn't the board power up with just the bat+ and bat- connected to a battery??
No, the DNA40 won't power up when you connect it to a battery..... Until you press the fire switch.
I went though an hour or two of frustration with this when I built my first one the weekend after they were released in October before I figured it out. Since it was going in a gDNA 3.1, I had already gutted the on-board switch.
IDK Steve, I think it looks pretty fantastic. I can understand you not liking it as your depiction of your end result is now skewed by the "actual" color of the device
I need your help guys, I tried to power up the DNA-40 and it's dead as a dodo. I've wired it as per the wiring diagram and when I connect the bat+ and bat- to my battery I get nada (yes I did connect the correct poles).
My question is this. Shouldn't the board power up with just the bat+ and bat- connected to a battery??
I need your help guys, I tried to power up the DNA-40 and it's dead as a dodo. I've wired it as per the wiring diagram and when I connect the bat+ and bat- to my battery I get nada (yes I did connect the correct poles).
My question is this. Shouldn't the board power up with just the bat+ and bat- connected to a battery??
aaahhahaaaaa it feels like it. I'm a self confessed mech guy but it's not that I refuse to use electronics. I just believe that they'll never last as long a a well made mech.
True a well made mech will probably last longer. Don't mean that a regulated mod can't last a long time. I have Hana Mod # 171 a few good miles under her belt, still works like new
aaahhahaaaaa it feels like it. I'm a self confessed mech guy but it's not that I refuse to use electronics. I just believe that they'll never last as long a a well made mech.
True a well made mech will probably last longer. Don't mean that a regulated mod can't last a long time. I have Hana Mod # 171 a few good miles under her belt, still works like new
The DNA-40 BFer is done and working like a charm. I haven't tried yet the temp control because I'm running kanthal coils.and I'm wondering if I make a couple of coils from the old nickel non-resistance wire I still have from the old days if it'll work. If anyone knows I would appreciate the input.
This mod has a 16ml bottle and it also features the new FD v4 BF connector. For those of you who noticed my screen is just a tad off vertical but I'll fix this tomorrow because I'll work on the other cast resin mod today.
dang Steve, that curly maple is beautiful! I love the subtle curve you put on the sides
Very very nice again my friend...now give that thing away before you succumb to darkness
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
. I like it more than I thought I would.
