Nada, that needle is long enough so it really goes down the tube eliminating any possible leaks from the bottle. I used this system on a previous mod I made and it works like clockwork.
BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Well it really couldn't be simpler. I start by measuring the center of my block of wood and bore out with a forstner bit the tube for the bottle at the correct depth on the milling machine. Now I have the reference position so without changing position of the mill table I just change the forstner bit for a drill bit of the correct size for the 510 and drill out from below the hole for the 510. This way the tube and the 510 hole above it are both concentric so the needle will be dead center in the bottle tube.
If everything is from the same reference you can't go wrong
If everything is from the same reference you can't go wrong
Well that remains to be seen, this is the very first time I use it and my first impressions are good, it seems he's improved a few things. I would change the lower part a bit but it's seems like an improvement over the v3. Time will tell.
I've been using the needle on the tube for a bit now too, love it, easy to pop in and out and it lets me flush the tube out occasionally too...
I like that idea, I use a 1st hollow screw rather than the shorter one and run the tube all the way up to the nut and jam the screw with the hose over it thru the bottle, makes for a lot better seal as well.
mine? no issues at all, works perfect and I've changed atties plenty of times. love that it's fool proof, can unscrew any atty a full turn or more and still makes perfect contact and anything I screw on can go completely flush without any tinkering
Just a note turbo on dealing with cracks in hardwood bfs, I've had a few, and never was able to seal them up as I wanted to with CA or epoxy, then I realised it was due to never getting the crack truly dry of the juice which had ingressed into the wood. then I thought about people who put their I-Phones in bags of rice for a few days after they dropped them down the toilet, and have been able to get my cracked wood mods bone dry after a few days in a bag of jasmine rice ready for the repair, I did strip out any parts that weren't glued in though, just a thoughtI've been using the needle on the tube for a bit now too, love it, easy to pop in and out and it lets me flush the tube out occasionally too...
I'm wrapping this one up. Still need to seal the inside, glue/seal the 510, and it's getting a couple of wax coats. I used a pre-drilled 8-32 then bored it to something larger than 5/64 (which I broke on my first attempt). Paired it with 1/8 ID tubing and I have stupid easy squonking
spalted maple panels(or as I like to call it, pita) and ebony
I LOVE these top/side fire buttons!
clean but cool profile imo
kinda tough looking with the big fat buttons
I've got enough play in the 510 countersink to center that atty when I glue/seal it.
except for the extra work the spalted wood created, this build was a lot of fun and I'm relatively pleased. I'm still making stupid mistakes but I expected that.
You ever at your sander sanding away and wonder, hmm, wood doesn't spark? Yeah, I have lol
next one is going to be all ebony and aluminum...going for a minimalist look
spalted maple panels(or as I like to call it, pita) and ebony
I LOVE these top/side fire buttons!
clean but cool profile imo
kinda tough looking with the big fat buttons
I've got enough play in the 510 countersink to center that atty when I glue/seal it.
except for the extra work the spalted wood created, this build was a lot of fun and I'm relatively pleased. I'm still making stupid mistakes but I expected that.
You ever at your sander sanding away and wonder, hmm, wood doesn't spark? Yeah, I have lol
next one is going to be all ebony and aluminum...going for a minimalist look
That's awesome River, I'm really diggin' that fire button and it's matching squonk, so clean 
thanks Quigs
I love how I can fire it by pulling down with my thumb instead of reaching up top. And when you have a short, or buried atty, your thumb can get in the way with a top fire button.
I love how I can fire it by pulling down with my thumb instead of reaching up top. And when you have a short, or buried atty, your thumb can get in the way with a top fire button.
I'm wrapping this one up. Still need to seal the inside, glue/seal the 510, and it's getting a couple of wax coats. I used a pre-drilled 8-32 then bored it to something larger than 5/64 (which I broke on my first attempt). Paired it with 1/8 ID tubing and I have stupid easy squonking
spalted maple panels(or as I like to call it, pita) and ebony
I LOVE these top/side fire buttons!
clean but cool profile imo
kinda tough looking with the big fat buttons
I've got enough play in the 510 countersink to center that atty when I glue/seal it.
except for the extra work the spalted wood created, this build was a lot of fun and I'm relatively pleased. I'm still making stupid mistakes but I expected that.
You ever at your sander sanding away and wonder, hmm, wood doesn't spark? Yeah, I have lol
next one is going to be all ebony and aluminum...going for a minimalist look
That is a beautiful mod Mike and I love the simplicity of its internals as well as the contrast of the aluminum buttons. You have great taste buddy and great skills.
As for the "sparking wood" I'll share with you a tip which has saved my .... many times. The last thing I install now after I've finished a mod are the magnets and I'll explain why. You may not believe this but I once had a magnet ignite (yes ignite) on me. I installed a magnet once at slightly the wrong depth and decided to machine it as I ran out of acetone. After the first pass on the mill I saw sparks which caused a chain reaction and the thing burnt and of course burned the wood around it. The reaction was not violent but nonetheless caused me to scrap the body of the mod. The magnet by the way burnt and all that was left was a black powder. No flame but very high heat and sparks.
I've found that magnets attract dirt, chips, dust and always look dead ugly if I install them from the beginning. So now what I do is that I've made some brass pins at the same diameter as my magnets (same length as 2 magnets) and I just slip them in the magnet holes I've cut until I finish the mod. When everything is done I install the real magnets last and they look clean as a whistle.
You were actually lucky that magnet didn't ignite on you as you sanded it (you probably just caught it in time)
Anyway just wanted to share with you that experience so you know what can actually happen with neodymium magnets.
Great mod buddy
Thank you SteveThat is a beautiful mod Mike and I love the simplicity of its internals as well as the contrast of the aluminum buttons. You have great taste buddy and great skills.
As for the "sparking wood" I'll share with you a tip which has saved my .... many times. The last thing I install now after I've finished a mod are the magnets and I'll explain why. You may not believe this but I once had a magnet ignite (yes ignite) on me. I installed a magnet once at slightly the wrong depth and decided to machine it as I ran out of acetone. After the first pass on the mill I saw sparks which caused a chain reaction and the thing burnt and of course burned the wood around it. The reaction was not violent but nonetheless caused me to scrap the body of the mod. The magnet by the way burnt and all that was left was a black powder. No flame but very high heat and sparks.
I've found that magnets attract dirt, chips, dust and always look dead ugly if I install them from the beginning. So now what I do is that I've made some brass pins at the same diameter as my magnets (same length as 2 magnets) and I just slip them in the magnet holes I've cut until I finish the mod. When everything is done I install the real magnets last and they look clean as a whistle.
You were actually lucky that magnet didn't ignite on you as you sanded it (you probably just caught it in time)
Anyway just wanted to share with you that experience so you know what can actually happen with neodymium magnets.
Great mod buddy
. That's a great idea with the temporary pins. I think I'll use that And yeah I had read that the magnets didn't like to be machined but nothing about igniting
thank you opensec
. Yeah I did them myself, and as simple as they are, the little guys took me a while to get them just the way I wanted them.I started with the belt sander but I don't have very steady hands with small things so I finished with a file and sandpaper. I did use the mill for the underside of the fire button but a bandsaw, or coping saw would have done the job too.
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