BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
- Thread starter turbocad6
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
hey Aal, thanks man. Been missing you...hope all is good 
opensec, for now I'm just using pencil and paper but I do see how Sketchup could be an advantage. I've got it downloaded but I just need to take a couple of nights to learn the basics to start using it. My drawings aren't very detailed (more conceptual) and the build ends up taking more time because of it. I have made this a hobby though so I expect my process to become more efficient as I gain experience (make mistakes).
opensec, for now I'm just using pencil and paper but I do see how Sketchup could be an advantage. I've got it downloaded but I just need to take a couple of nights to learn the basics to start using it. My drawings aren't very detailed (more conceptual) and the build ends up taking more time because of it. I have made this a hobby though so I expect my process to become more efficient as I gain experience (make mistakes).
Downloaded it too but haven't found yet the motivation to spend some time on it, plus my next few projects are in hammond boxes.
I was just thinking that you may have use it, it looks like the design have been much more thought through that what you describe, I really dig that mod, the aluminium buttons add a nice real touch to the contrast ebony/maple and their shape compliment nicely the overall design of the mod.
I was just thinking that you may have use it, it looks like the design have been much more thought through that what you describe, I really dig that mod, the aluminium buttons add a nice real touch to the contrast ebony/maple and their shape compliment nicely the overall design of the mod.
part of the problem, and one of the biggest reasons I want to learn Sketchup is that I usually work out the details in my head and keep them there...which makes my head hurt sometimes 
I think I will be more inclined to work out the details in Sketchup. I also think that being able to see your design from all angles will be very helpful.
as for overall design, I am always re-evaluating shape as I work through the build and try to always be open for a change in design if it's called for. On this particular mod, the buttons themselves determined the overall boxy shape of the mod...it just seemed to call for it.
I think I will be more inclined to work out the details in Sketchup. I also think that being able to see your design from all angles will be very helpful.as for overall design, I am always re-evaluating shape as I work through the build and try to always be open for a change in design if it's called for. On this particular mod, the buttons themselves determined the overall boxy shape of the mod...it just seemed to call for it.
having a small problem ..cant get the voltage range on my okrt10.
using a 4.7 ohm from pin 1 to pin 3 [ ground ] and 200 ohm in lead to pot . getting 3/4 v to 1.5 v ???
seen another scematic which uses a 1k resister instead of the 4.7 so tried that to !!
had to add more resistance to the pot lead , now 440 ohms. min voltage now way to low but v out up to 4.25 ..to low !
build a couple of naos raptors before was ok ..now the okr t10 gives me problems .do these two converters require diferent resisters ?
using mamus scematic .which uses 4.7 k and 220 on the okr t10.
anybody ran into that ?
using a 4.7 ohm from pin 1 to pin 3 [ ground ] and 200 ohm in lead to pot . getting 3/4 v to 1.5 v ???
seen another scematic which uses a 1k resister instead of the 4.7 so tried that to !!
had to add more resistance to the pot lead , now 440 ohms. min voltage now way to low but v out up to 4.25 ..to low !
build a couple of naos raptors before was ok ..now the okr t10 gives me problems .do these two converters require diferent resisters ?
using mamus scematic .which uses 4.7 k and 220 on the okr t10.
anybody ran into that ?
part of the problem, and one of the biggest reasons I want to learn Sketchup is that I usually work out the details in my head and keep them there...which makes my head hurt sometimes
as for overall design, I am always re-evaluating shape as I work through the build and try to always be open for a change in design if it's called for. On this particular mod, the buttons themselves determined the overall boxy shape of the mod...it just seemed to call for it.
Best thing with sketchup guys is that you can make the basic stuff you use in all mods like an 18650, a bottle (or various size bottles), buttons etc with exact dimensions and save them. Then you can bring them up on a new design so you can see exactly how much room you need to accommodate everything. Real handy and helps avoid nasty surprises.
You can effectively build your design from inside out
Interesting bottle there Rolf! And Rivernut, VERY NICE MOD!!having a small problem ..cant get the voltage range on my okrt10.
using a 4.7 ohm from pin 1 to pin 3 [ ground ] and 200 ohm in lead to pot . getting 3/4 v to 1.5 v ???
seen another scematic which uses a 1k resister instead of the 4.7 so tried that to !!
had to add more resistance to the pot lead , now 440 ohms. min voltage now way to low but v out up to 4.25 ..to low !
build a couple of naos raptors before was ok ..now the okr t10 gives me problems .do these two converters require diferent resisters ?
using mamus scematic .which uses 4.7 k and 220 on the okr t10.
anybody ran into that ?
That's worthy of a king!
-Mark
hi mark !
I sure agree on rivernuts mod ...beutyful !
I just hope that my contraption will be halv as nice looking.
the tank is made from petg plastic formed around a wooden form with a heat gunn.
happy modding
I sure agree on rivernuts mod ...beutyful !
I just hope that my contraption will be halv as nice looking.
the tank is made from petg plastic formed around a wooden form with a heat gunn.
happy modding
Hammond boxes are a perfect learning platform for Sketch-up...build the Hammond box in Sketch-up
There are a lot of aspects of the basic Hammond box that at first can be quite challenging to do (such as curved corners, the lugs, etc.)...and you'll get there, but to start, just create the basic box structure.
There are A LOT of you tube vids on SU techniques for the bare bones basics for peeps new to it...careful though, SU can be adictive.
...anyway, I wanted to see if I could duplicate my first Dibi style mod (I thought I may have fluked it) so I built it a brother...
...machining copper sucks huge, avoid it at all costs...I couldn't even bring myself to make a copper button
I will, I just need to calm down a bit...
it looks like you worked it out Quigs. Is it because it's soft? Got any tricks/advice? Just in case I just have to
You know you're chompin to make a button on your new tool
Hey what's the wall thickness around your atty on those
You know you're chompin to make a button on your new tool
Hey what's the wall thickness around your atty on those
thanks rolf. And I love your contraption! I'm especially interested in your tank and hope to hear how that works out
I wish I could help with your electronic issue but I know nothing about it.
Anyone here able to help out rolf?
If not, I'm sure there's a few threads around here dedicated to it.
Hey Rolf I had the same problem with mine when I assembled it. My output was nominal board voltage regardless of setting on the pot it was .56 volts that I remember but you can check the spec sheet. The problem was I installed the resistors backwards, I had the trim resistor on the fire button (pin1-pin3) after a few hours poking around with the volt meter I finally counted the bands on the resistors and put them in the proper place.
It sounds like the resistor is bad or cold solder or wrong resistance. The OKR is in every respect the same as the Raptor.
Nice tank
It sounds like the resistor is bad or cold solder or wrong resistance. The OKR is in every respect the same as the Raptor.
Nice tank
I used a 220 ohm pin 5 and a 1k on pin 1-3 and a 200 ohm pot, you can use a 4.7 on the pin 1 and 3 seems weird but they both work.
Maybe the pot is bad
Maybe the pot is bad
Last edited:
well all component check out perfect . started new ..resoldered everything and forgot to use a resister from pin 1 to pin 3 ...
what do you know its working perfect 3 to 6.2 volts out.........without a resister ..weird so why is it sopose to be in there at all ??
leave it alone , but sure would like to know the reason why.
what do you know its working perfect 3 to 6.2 volts out.........without a resister ..weird so why is it sopose to be in there at all ??
leave it alone , but sure would like to know the reason why.
it looks like you worked it out Quigs. Is it because it's soft? Got any tricks/advice? Just in case I just have to
You know you're chompin to make a button on your new tool
Hey what's the wall thickness around your atty on those
Ya, it's soft, it doesn't so much as cut as it does rip...picking a speed is a dart board...if you're facing, I personally got the best results with a high speed and VERY light passes, if you're drilling biggish holes (over a 1/4"), dead slow (you could almost turn the spindle by hand)...then there's everything in between.
The thickness around the D is thin but remember it's not normal wood, it has a lot of properties of resin, and it's impervious to juice
Hammond boxes are a perfect learning platform for Sketch-up...build the Hammond box in Sketch-up
There are a lot of aspects of the basic Hammond box that at first can be quite challenging to do (such as curved corners, the lugs, etc.)...and you'll get there, but to start, just create the basic box structure.
There are A LOT of you tube vids on SU techniques for the bare bones basics for peeps new to it...careful though, SU can be adictive.
...anyway, I wanted to see if I could duplicate my first Dibi style mod (I thought I may have fluked it) so I built it a brother...
View attachment 420501View attachment 420502
...machining copper sucks huge, avoid it at all costs...I couldn't even bring myself to make a copper button
I will, I just need to calm down a bit...
Nice work Quigs, I feel your pain with the copper. Perhaps have a read here for best results on machining copper
I hope you're starting to feel more confident working with wood, sure looks like it. I think you should get some nice burl for you next project bud and just go for it
Last edited:
In mamu's schematic, it looks like she is using the standard version OKR-T/10, using the resistor between pins 1 and 3 to turn the chip off, (by providing a ground through the resistor), and the switch to supply a voltage to turn it on.
From the datasheet is this:
Remote On/Off Control (Note 5) [Standard version]
Positive Logic ON = +1.5 V. to +Vin max. or open pin
OFF = 0.3 to +0.4 V. max. or ground pin
(Note 5) The On/Off Control is normally controlled by a switch or open collector or open drain transistor.
But it may also be driven with external logic or by applying appropriate external
voltages which are referenced to Input Common.
It looks like there are two models:
OKR-T/10-W12-C
OKR-T/10-W12E-C
Do you have the 2nd version with the "E" in it, if you do, it "might" work without the resistor.
Remote On/Off Control [E version]
Positive Logic ON = +2 V. to +Vin max.,
49KΩ pulldown to ground
OFF = open pin or 0.3 to +0.4 V. max.
Either way, without a pull-down resistor from pin 1 to 3, operation might be unreliable, as in, not always turn off. But the proof is in the pudding...
thanks ion !
I will spend some time with the data sheet and let it soak in .
so what I am doing is a little different... the way I hooked it up is not using the switch from pin one to pin 2 but hard wired the zener in there for low voltage protection only. my switching is done in the positive lead . full throttle on or off so no drain how ever slow it may be. using quigs idea of using realay contacts which are rated at 10 amps .
don't know what version I got . will try to find it. now its time to try an atty on it . and a smoke test .
I will spend some time with the data sheet and let it soak in .
so what I am doing is a little different... the way I hooked it up is not using the switch from pin one to pin 2 but hard wired the zener in there for low voltage protection only. my switching is done in the positive lead . full throttle on or off so no drain how ever slow it may be. using quigs idea of using realay contacts which are rated at 10 amps .
don't know what version I got . will try to find it. now its time to try an atty on it . and a smoke test .
There is your answer then, because you don't need it to switch off while powered up (because your main switch cuts the power) then you don't need the resistor to ground. The zener from pin 1 to pin 2 is all you need. You have wired it correctly for your application. The version number doesn't matter either, since both versions will work the way you have wired it.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
