BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Personally, I'm waiting anxiously to see how he holds the cap onto the body. I'm hoping it won't be with machine screws.
X2.....I'm hoping someone will try countersunk aircraft quarter turn fasteners on one.
nice i will try that on my next build .. thanks brothat's what I want to do when the design allows from now on since I don't change atties either. Quigs where did you order your bit and tap? Seems like a read somewhere about a modder being dissatisfied with the 510 taps available.
for my buddy's I decided to use the FD v4. If you take a dremmel to the inside of the FD 22mm cap you can flip it over and thread it that way. Filling the gap on top with solder should be okay right?
I'm busy modifying an aluminium Grand at the moment and really like the idea of leaving out the 510 connector.Would be grateful for some advice,If I make up a brass bush threaded to accept an atty can I machine it to be a tight fit into the mod and bond it in or will any bonding agent act as an insulator?
Thanks for the reply,I don't really want to bond it but I'm not certain I have the skill or the tools to machine the bush to be tight enough to 'push in' and hold in the same position.So can I run some solder around the underside?
I've been spouting off about embracing the non-conventional lately...figured I better put up or shut up...
I've been building this since Studio posted his copper box, as much as I hate working with copper the warmth and heft (and the fact that it's the 2nd best conductor north of -183 C) keeps drawing me in.
I wasn't going to post this as it pretty much represent everything guys on here wouldn't do i.e. it's a non-box (that's it, all exposed), zero safety measures, deliberate non use of SS (if they made a copper or brass body D I'd buy it).
The tolerances of the brass tubing is tight...it takes some effort to pull it apart to change the batt, but that'll loosen in time...when it does, I have some extension springs that fit inside the tubes that I'll anchor with tapered plugs.
it is what it is...
I've been building this since Studio posted his copper box, as much as I hate working with copper the warmth and heft (and the fact that it's the 2nd best conductor north of -183 C
) keeps drawing me in.I wasn't going to post this as it pretty much represent everything guys on here wouldn't do i.e. it's a non-box (that's it, all exposed), zero safety measures, deliberate non use of SS (if they made a copper or brass body D I'd buy it).
The tolerances of the brass tubing is tight...it takes some effort to pull it apart to change the batt, but that'll loosen in time...when it does, I have some extension springs that fit inside the tubes that I'll anchor with tapered plugs.
it is what it is...
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I've been spouting off about embracing the non-conventional lately...figured I better put up or shut up...
I've been building this since Studio posted his copper box, as much as I hate working with copper the warmth and heft (and the fact that it's the 2nd best conductor north of -183 C
I wasn't going to post this as it pretty much represent everything guys on here wouldn't do i.e. it's a non-box (that's it, all exposed), zero safety measures, deliberate non use of SS (if they made a copper or brass body D I'd buy it).
The tolerances of the brass tubing is tight...it takes some effort to pull it apart to change the batt, but that'll loosen in time...when it does, I have some extension springs that fit inside the tubes that I'll anchor with tapered plugs.
it is what it is...
View attachment 424896View attachment 424897
Now that is truly thinking "outside" the box!!!
Great idea and top marks for originality Quigs. It's got an air of steam punk to it without being over the top like most steam punk mods. How's the squonk action? Is the bottle held steady or does it move when you squonk?
I really like what you did and your metal work looks stellar.
Great idea and top marks for originality Quigs. It's got an air of steam punk to it without being over the top like most steam punk mods. How's the squonk action? Is the bottle held steady or does it move when you squonk?
I really like what you did and your metal work looks stellar.
That's what I was gunning for, if I was going to use tubes, they had to be functional...I wanted it to look like something you'd find in the Nautilus engine room but without all the gears, sprockets and Victorian filigree.
I rummaged through my bottle/cap box trying to find that perfect match. I wanted a bottle that would perfectly fit the I.D. of the 3/4 copper pipe (the rounds) and it's height to finish so that the dropper tip and tube went on to the nipple (if that makes any sense?)...that way when I squonk it doesn't flop around side to side or up/down...I had this elaborate "B" plan that involved another ring at the top of the bottle that was also soldered midway up the brass tubes, but it made it look too "busy" and my fingers kept catching it...the cap/bottle I found are mismatched but meh, it works.
Even though the inner tubes extend about 2" into the outer tubes I was a little concerned I'd get drop through the friction connections but nothing my meter can measure...I think I've raised (or lowered?) my own V drop bar, this hits hard...though I think Studio may still have me beat with his copper box.
I think it's a great idea and it's one that can be developed further IMHO. I've ordered some aluminum brazing rods to experiment with aluminum brazing because I saw the results and it's pretty much like a seamless weld. If I can achieve a good weld which can be sanded and polished I have some great ideas to try which I could only otherwise achieve with a CNC mill.
BTW if you could source some clear acrylic tubes for that mod I think it would also look cool.
BTW if you could source some clear acrylic tubes for that mod I think it would also look cool.
Great job Quigs, it is like a more mature version of my Brass Brazers, but I had a battery spring to keep the battery in place and tight clearance to get the battery out. Coincidentally, those are the only mods that I cannibalized for parts and never got back to working order, it was for the switches I think.
That a shame Asdaq...the stuff you put out was what got me hooked on the heavy metal to begin with I just never had the tools to make them back then...your mods always reminded me of this brass WW1 trench lighter my grand dad gave me when I was a kid...the coolest thing in my treasure box next to my swiss army knife and gyroscope
Love it Quigs!!!!! Coolest mod I have ever seen. I may have to build one like it for myself[emoji7]
Fun mod to build...and if you do, here's 5 tips that will save hours of grief...
1. make all your parts, you'll need them for mocking up/measuring/finding centers (leave the top/bottom plates rectangles)
2. stack your plates together and drill the smallest sized tube holes, then drill the 510 (if you're going to just tap the plate for the RDA like I did, do it now) and switch.
3. cut your tube pieces, then slide them together and insert them into your plates, jig it up square and true and solder
4. keeping the top and bottom slid together, solder your pieces of 3/4 pipe (make sure you notch the top pieces for your contact strip "before" you solder them)
5. belt sand the over hang off the top and bottom plates...easy peasy, just follow the curve of the pipe pieces
I've got a lot of pics, pm me if you want them.
I didn't follow any of that but I would the next time believe me...if the tubes aren't in perfect alignment your done cause if you screw up like i did, good luck sweating that tube out...I ended up just cutting the bad seed off it and re-drilling it
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