Peter (pdib) will be making a wood shell for me on my next slot on his list. (in the next month or so) Not wood caps though, although he made the nylon caps on the one that went to Todd look pretty good.
BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Peter (pdib) will be making a wood shell for me on my next slot on his list. (in the next month or so) Not wood caps though, although he made the nylon caps on the one that went to Todd look pretty good.
Yes I did see that one Todd was showing and it did look mighty fine. I got on Pete's list back in June but I'm sure I'm probably still about a year shy of an Oliver.
Thanks Capt. Havent really look too far into metal bodies, I dont have the equipment to work with those materials. (I did get a quote for a prototype Alum shell...ouch $$$). But it could be possible to get something more basic together for modding. What do you have in mind?
BTW, I have made a wood shell version that uses the plastic internal structure.
that's really sweet, you did that body yourself?
Well, I finally found a little time to work on this thing.
Slowly but surely, it's gettin' there....
that's awesome. that's def the most compact way to install the dna into a reo I think, I did my woodvil the same way and this is the way I'm going to install dnas into my next woodvil installs too. not the one I already showed in this thread. guess now's a good time to put that one here
this one's a fiddleback curly black walnut body. I built the door and button panel from a white teak burl. teak is a pretty cool wood it's not so much a hardwood but it is kinda oily and buffs to a really silky smooth finish like a hardwood. it's lighter weight than a hardwood too. it's naturally water resistant, so much so that it's widely used in marine stuff. teak burls are rare & I really like the look of it paired with the medium brown of the walnut. this mod also feels great in my hand and it's my #2 mod. it's light and sleek and smooth
I waterproofed this mod with liquid electrical tape. it goes on as a liquid and then cures pretty much as a lightweight plastic shell. build up a few coats and its so waterproof that I can submerge this mod completely and wash it out in the sink, not that I do it all the time because it's not so good for the buttons but its pretty much waterproof.
this is a video of testing it when I finished the dna install
That would do it, push air in check ball collapses, it pressurizes the tank and pushes fluid up to the drip cup. When the pressure stops ball valve closes as tank equalizes.
Almost sounds easy
that's an excellent point Rhelton...and and plumber/gas fitter buddy actually pointed that out at the time (one of the reasons why I binned it)...though I actually may have an alt solution (it came to me in a dream last night
)...So as a proto I'm thinking hammond box (ya groan away, plastic OTS box) but as a proof of concept it makes it easy (and inexpensive)...
What is the typical Hammond?, the 1590? or something like it?...it's the one that's 100mm high, 50mm wide and 25 mm deep (incl. lid)...it's the one I used in my Russian tractor
obviously it's the one on the left...
see if you can follow me (I'll try and do a sketch-up and up them as jpegs)...my plan (dream) is to buy 2x of those boxes...in the one box build a dual 18650 bf mech (no provision for a bottle)...now on to the 2nd box...bin the lid, you won't need it, lay the box on the mill (back down) and and shave it down so that it's 10mm deep measured from the outside of the back (shave the screw posts and pc board notches so it's just a clean container).
then fab a plug out of? (in my case I'll use 6mm thick lexan sheet) that's 90mm high, 40mm wide, spray it all down with silicone release and suspend the plug so it's flush with the top edges the cut down box then pour Dragon Skin slow silicone in...once cured pop out the plug and pop the silicone "container" out of the cut down 1590...then mill out a nice size squonk hole in the back of the cut down 1590. I chose Dragon Skin slow cause it doesn't need degasing and cause it's tough, 2mm's thick of the stuff should be good for a couple billion squonks)
Then, mix enough dragon skin to do some brush on work, wet up the dragon skin container and stick it back in the cut down 1590 (with the new squonk hole) then wet down the 5mm edges and attach it to the back of the dual 18650 bf I built (and for good measure, 2 part epoxy the boxes together).
Inside the dual 18650 box, 6 +mm up the bottom, bore a hole big enough for a feed tube so it accesses the void of the dragon skin container stuck on the back...somewhere near the top, bore a hole for an "o" ringed fill screw...if you've followed what I'm saying, the "new" 10mm thick back of my "extended" 1590 becomes a bottle (btw Dragon skin is food grade silicone)...fyi 1ml = 1 cubic cm so you've made yourself a 21.5 ml bottle...I also plan on doing this with a clear 1590 at first for visual reasons though you could mill a liquid level view cut...
...this is super weird paradigm changing stuff here but if this works (and doesn't leak) imagine being able to simply add a bit of depth to your mod and it becomes your bottle?
Ya, it'll be big (ish), but again, it's just a proof of concept...
And Gdeal, you da man for digging up my old research, but by doing the Dragon skin pour you're back to squonking but the "bottle" and all the space and BS assoc. could be a thing of the past.
just saying...comments?
I think it could work . didn't know dragonskin was food grade. I've got a bunch of it in my basement and a degassing tank from another project . I thought of doing a cell phone stealth mod with a thin flat tank which would be the screen of the phone. I was going to do it with a milled out delrin insert and a clear thin plastic window spanning the whole screen area. one thing to keep in mind is you don't want the tank to be too soft and mushy, if it's not rigid enough it won't create enough suction for the squonk return, it'll collapse when squonked and then have a hard time returning to shape creating enough vacuum to suck back the fluid. it needs to be rigid enough for strong spring back. if the box itself is the resist then I could see springback to be great not sure exactly how you have in mind
. I thought of doing a cell phone stealth mod with a thin flat tank which would be the screen of the phone. I was going to do it with a milled out delrin insert and a clear thin plastic window spanning the whole screen area. one thing to keep in mind is you don't want the tank to be too soft and mushy, if it's not rigid enough it won't create enough suction for the squonk return, it'll collapse when squonked and then have a hard time returning to shape creating enough vacuum to suck back the fluid. it needs to be rigid enough for strong spring back. if the box itself is the resist then I could see springback to be great not sure exactly how you have in mind
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Interesting! Where did you get the cutter to remove the aluminum where the tactile switches and screen go? -All of my end mills can't do that. I like!
you can actually use carbide wood router bits for aluminum. grab a t slot cutting router bit from home depot or lowes
I think it could work . didn't know dragonskin was food grade. I've got a bunch of it in my basement and a degassing tank from another project
</lurk>
Their Smooth-Sil® 940 is a food grade silicone. Not sure about that 40A hardness, though.
I've worked with BJB Enterprises TC-5030 at 30A and I think that would be way too soft unless you make a really thick sack/bottle*. They offer several different hardnesses, but I haven't looked into whether they make a food grade silicone.
ETA: *Or use with some sort of spring-back bar as gdeal suggested.
<lurk>
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that's an excellent point Rhelton...and and plumber/gas fitter buddy actually pointed that out at the time (one of the reasons why I binned it)...though I actually may have an alt solution (it came to me in a dream last night
So as a proto I'm thinking hammond box (ya groan away, plastic OTS box) but as a proof of concept it makes it easy (and inexpensive)...
What is the typical Hammond?, the 1590? or something like it?...it's the one that's 100mm high, 50mm wide and 25 mm deep (incl. lid)...it's the one I used in my Russian tractor
View attachment 394434View attachment 394434
obviously it's the one on the left...
see if you can follow me (I'll try and do a sketch-up and up them as jpegs)...my plan (dream) is to buy 2x of those boxes...in the one box build a dual 18650 bf mech (no provision for a bottle)...now on to the 2nd box...bin the lid, you won't need it, lay the box on the mill (back down) and and shave it down so that it's 10mm deep measured from the outside of the back (shave the screw posts and pc board notches so it's just a clean container).
then fab a plug out of? (in my case I'll use 6mm thick lexan sheet) that's 90mm high, 40mm wide, spray it all down with silicone release and suspend the plug so it's flush with the top edges the cut down box then pour Dragon Skin slow silicone in...once cured pop out the plug and pop the silicone "container" out of the cut down 1590...then mill out a nice size squonk hole in the back of the cut down 1590. I chose Dragon Skin slow cause it doesn't need degasing and cause it's tough, 2mm's thick of the stuff should be good for a couple billion squonks)
Then, mix enough dragon skin to do some brush on work, wet up the dragon skin container and stick it back in the cut down 1590 (with the new squonk hole) then wet down the 5mm edges and attach it to the back of the dual 18650 bf I built (and for good measure, 2 part epoxy the boxes together).
Inside the dual 18650 box, 6 +mm up the bottom, bore a hole big enough for a feed tube so it accesses the void of the dragon skin container stuck on the back...somewhere near the top, bore a hole for an "o" ringed fill screw...if you've followed what I'm saying, the "new" 10mm thick back of my "extended" 1590 becomes a bottle (btw Dragon skin is food grade silicone)...fyi 1ml = 1 cubic cm so you've made yourself a 21.5 ml bottle...I also plan on doing this with a clear 1590 at first for visual reasons though you could mill a liquid level view cut...
...this is super weird paradigm changing stuff here but if this works (and doesn't leak) imagine being able to simply add a bit of depth to your mod and it becomes your bottle?
Ya, it'll be big (ish), but again, it's just a proof of concept...
And Gdeal, you da man for digging up my old research, but by doing the Dragon skin pour you're back to squonking but the "bottle" and all the space and BS assoc. could be a thing of the past.
just saying...comments?
I think your moving in the right direction. I just did some reading on that material and I think it would do the job. According to the manufacturer and other info on the web the material rebounds and is super stretchy. I would give it a go and get a prototype going.
Hey turbo, how did you mount your screen? It almost looks like you set it in clear epoxy.
I need to come up with a way of mounting mine that'll be waterproof...
I need to come up with a way of mounting mine that'll be waterproof...
to make the screen waterproof from the front I used several light coatings of CA glue, it seals all the edges of the screen to the body of the mod and doesn't let any water in but it does cause the display text to be very slightly more blurry or fuzzy looking... as long as you use thin coats it doesn't look bad really and is a worthwhile trade off... an alternative I had in mind but haven't tried yet would be filling the opening with a clear acrylic pouring resin but then you probably want a degassing chamber or tiny bubbles may make it look worse than the CA coating
Hey quigs you could use something like baps 1590g replacement cover to test out your idea. I think it would give enough room to put your liner in and give it a go.
SX350 1590G Angled - Replacement Lid by bapgood on Shapeways
I know this would add some girth to the mod but at least for testing you could rip it out if needed and put a new one in.
SX350 1590G Angled - Replacement Lid by bapgood on Shapeways
I know this would add some girth to the mod but at least for testing you could rip it out if needed and put a new one in.
Gdeal, I like your idea of fabbing and encasing a "spring-back" helper "frame"...but like Rhelton, I've looked into this Dragon Skin on several different sources and from what I understand the Dragon Skin slow's resiliency and shape return is that of legends...I'm thinking even with a Grand sized/shaped squonk hole and 2mm thick of Dragon Skin I don't think "spring back" will be an issue...but if it is, it'd be an easy add-on to a beta version....the minimum buy on this Dragon Skin should give me several attempts 
Tomorrow I'll fire up Sketch-up and up some rough drawings here so you guys can see if I've missed anything obvious
Tomorrow I'll fire up Sketch-up and up some rough drawings here so you guys can see if I've missed anything obvious
dragonskins return and resiliency may be excellent but not with a large flat thin panel. I've used the stuff before and I think it may need to be a lot thicker than you're expecting for it to return squonk anything like the ldpe bottles were used to, adding something for springback shouldn't be to tough to do though, also it might help by adding some inner walls or standoffs within the chamber to increase the rigidity of the shape but my biggest concern there would be sanitary and cleaning ability inside the chamber. I've got a bunch of it in my basement but it's from a few years ago so I expect it to probably be no good by now... I'll look and if it still looks good and both components are still liquid I may be able to send you one to play with
cc that looks great, nice clean screen slot.
a lot of guys are hesitant to glop up there dna and screen because it would make removal without damage almost impossible, but in reality the only reason to ever rip it out would be to replace it anyway, and glopping it up and sealing it can def go a long way towards ensuring it lasts longer and won't need to be removed in the first place, so now I think I would seal up just about any install in a bottom feeder. there are plenty of other ways to seal it up besides the way I did it too
a lot of guys are hesitant to glop up there dna and screen because it would make removal without damage almost impossible, but in reality the only reason to ever rip it out would be to replace it anyway, and glopping it up and sealing it can def go a long way towards ensuring it lasts longer and won't need to be removed in the first place, so now I think I would seal up just about any install in a bottom feeder. there are plenty of other ways to seal it up besides the way I did it too
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