BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[custom-classic]

Thanks turbo. Jagged slots make me anxious.....

I picked up some of this from the hobby lobby earlier:

Gonna give it a shot... The nice lady on the youtubes tells me that with judicious use of a

heat gun and toothpick, you can make sure you don't end up with any air bubbles.

We shall see....

 

[turbocad6]

that must come with a spiral mixing nozzle separately? or are you going to mix it by hand?

 

[rhelton]

You could cast in a strip of steel banding material or a section of band saw blade with the teeth ground off be easy enough it may prove to be fatal and wear thru the material in the end but hey its all in the name of science right.

There's gonna be casualties

 

[custom-classic]

that must come with a spiral mixing nozzle separately? or are you going to mix it by hand?

By hand.

 

[turbocad6]

what's the working time on that stuff?

 

[custom-classic]

They say 30 to 45 minutes working time.

3 days to fully cure

 

[Quigsworth]

dragonskins return and resiliency may be excellent but not with a large flat thin panel. I've used the stuff before and I think it may need to be a lot thicker than you're expecting for it to return squonk anything like the ldpe bottles were used to, adding something for springback shouldn't be to tough to do though, also it might help by adding some inner walls or standoffs within the chamber to increase the rigidity of the shape but my biggest concern there would be sanitary and cleaning ability inside the chamber. I've got a bunch of it in my basement but it's from a few years ago so I expect it to probably be no good by now... I'll look and if it still looks good and both components are still liquid I may be able to send you one to play with

I did consider the cleaning aspect... By having a fill screw at the top I should be able to create a little tip/tube that can screw into the fill hole so I can power flush it.

... now that you got me questioning the spring back what about drilling a 10mm hole in the plug that gets removed after the pour...
essentially creating a silicone "post" dead center of where the squonk hole will be...thoughts?

 

[turbocad6]

that could work. it's hard for me to visualize exactly what you have in mind and how you're planing on doing it but something along those lines may be necessary and may do the trick. guess a few tests would be the thing to do. I just checked the basement and the stuff I have is dragon skin Q which is quick setting, both bottles are hard as a rock. I got a whole shelf of molding supplies that's probably all garbage at this point. these things have a pretty short shelf life, probably not the best idea to stock up on a bunch of this stuff just in case you might need it some day


cc it's much better that it's a slow cure, gives it more time to get out air bubbles but that's still going to be the challenge. how you mix it will make a big difference too, you don't want to whip it or fold too much air into it as you mix it. warm it a bit to lower the viscosity after it's mixed will help a lot too and you couldn't do that as well with something that cures faster because warming it does accelerate the cure too. I'm curious to see how it turns out. sounds like a nice product. I've always intended on pouring a resin on my screen it would make the current distortion from the ca glue disappear and make the display crystal clear again

 

[Quigsworth]

that could work. it's hard for me to visualize exactly what you have in mind and how you're planing on doing it but something along those lines may be necessary and may do the trick. guess a few tests would be the thing to do. I just checked the basement and the stuff I have is dragon skin Q which is quick setting, both bottles are hard as a rock. I got a whole shelf of molding supplies that's probably all garbage at this point. these things have a pretty short shelf life, probably not the best idea to stock up on a bunch of this stuff just in case you might need it some day


cc it's much better that it's a slow cure, gives it more time to get out air bubbles but that's still going to be the challenge. how you mix it will make a big difference too, you don't want to whip it or fold too much air into it as you mix it. warm it a bit to lower the viscosity after it's mixed will help a lot too and you couldn't do that as well with something that cures faster because warming it does accelerate the cure too. I'm curious to see how it turns out. sounds like a nice product. I've always intended on pouring a resin on my screen it would make the current distortion from the ca glue disappear and make the display crystal clear again

It is hard to visualize (I'm having to make it in sketch-up to visualize it myself)... trying to describe molds and plugs is one thing but then to envision the finished product (which if you think about it, is the reverse of what you're trying to accomplish with the molds... forget about it...)

from what I read so far is the "slow" is the way to go... sure, long cure, but from my work with fiberglass and mirror coat.... slow kick = low thermal reaction = less air bubbles/flaws/inclusions = much happier with the end results...I can wait.

 

[Quigsworth]

Ok...these are rough but hopefully it helps make sense of my ramblings...


This is the exploded view of the dual 18650 hammond 1590 box, the lexan plug that will be used to simply displace the silicone (note hole drilled into the plug centered in the future squonk hole cut out (I was a little premature adding the squonk hole at this stage of the drawing, I'll do that after the silicone cures, I'll pull the silicone out, cut the squonk and stick the silicone container? (don't know what else to call it) with some fresh silicone mix...I'm only using lexan cause it's already 6mm thick, I can give it a nice edge...and I have a .... load of it...


This is the 10mm shaved down 2nd 1590 box (screw lugs and PC card holders milled out, no squonk hole cut yet (as noted above), the plug is suspended in the box, the plugs upper surface is exactly flush with the top edges of the box (I think I want to arch the plug suspension over the edges of the shaved down 1590 so that there is no flaws in the surface that will eventually marry with the back of the mod, make sense from a minimize the chance of leakage perspective?


finally, this is post cured and lexan plug removed. I'll wet brush some silicone on the outer edges and the top of the cylinder so it becomes one with the mod. I'll also mix up some 2 part epoxy to join the shaved down 1590 to the back of 1590 mod (not sure if it's necessary, cured silicone sticks like a mother...but meh, why not, plus when I wet sand everything down after I don't want a softish silicone line to contend with.

It's hard to show in gray scale but the cylinder that is seemingly floating above the squonk hole is part of the Dragon Skin pour (the hole in the plug?) and should provide enough spring back...the void will hold aprox. 20ml and the hole thing will add 10mm to the overall thickness of the mod...I understand that this is about as un-imaginative Volvo of a rectangular box but as a proto I just wanted to go big on the KISS until I figure out if this will work...so before you all say, ok sure, but that is gonna be some .... ugly unit there...I know

...one last thing...I'm pretty sure there will be some "shrinkage" in the curing process so I guess it'll probably over fill and razor the edges flush after?

 

[CaptSteve]

Interesting stuff Quigs, if you can pull this off it would solve the monumental hurdle of designing BFers around a proverbial tubular squonk bottle. Opens vast design possibilities. I'm really interested to see if this works out

 

[Rossum]

Why not make the tank any material and shape you want, and feed liquid by pumping air into the the top of the tank?

 

[Roscoe01]

Why not make the tank any material and shape you want, and feed liquid by pumping air into the the top of the tank?

I have been thinking about this issue for a while also. I think it would be awsome If you could just place your finger over the air hole in your atty and use primer pulls to feed. If think In order for that to work the gauge of the bf path needs to be larger so it would take less pressure drop to move liquid to the atty deck.

Food for thought. Why do we have to bf our attys thru the 510. Why not feed the juice well area around the 510. Then feed holes could run up thru deck instead and juice well sealed to atty with oring. It would in my mind take less pressure to feed and keep your atty contact area dry for better conductivity.

 

[Rossum]

I have been thinking about this issue for a while also. I think it would be awsome If you could just place your finger over the air hole in your atty and use primer pulls to feed. If think In order for that to work the gauge of the bf path needs to be larger so it would take less pressure drop to move liquid to the atty deck.

I don't think the cross-sectional area of the BF path wouldn't be much a limiting factor there if it wasn't for the partial vacuum you'd be creating in your tank. I think in order for this to work, you'd need to vent the tank. And once you vent the tank, you might as well push air into it rather than pull.

Food for thought. Why do we have to bf our attys thru the 510.

Because that solution is concentric and radially symmetric. It's compatible with pretty much any RDA (just drill the center pin) meaning there's a huge choice of atties to fit different people's vaping styles.

Why not feed the juice well area around the 510. Then feed holes could run up thru deck instead and juice well sealed to atty with oring. It would in my mind take less pressure to feed and keep your atty contact area dry for better conductivity.

I don't see how that would be practical unless you designed a hybrid mod/atty from scratch, although I'd be happy to be proven wrong.

 

[Roscoe01]

I'm really enjoying how everyone Is trying to think outside the box in this thread. I think sometimes we get stuck doing things the same way. I think we are overdue for a big change In how we feed our attys.

The feed system we are using now was designed to feed cartos and today's bf rdas are modified to work with that system.

Like said by others above the current feed/tank system is limiting the size and shape of our mods. I have no doubt that someone here will come up with an amazing solution at some point! I wish I had the time and tooling to put some of my Ideas into motion.[emoji57]

 

[DavidOH]

Thanks turbo. Jagged slots make me anxious.....

I picked up some of this from the hobby lobby earlier:

Gonna give it a shot... The nice lady on the youtubes tells me that with judicious use of a

heat gun and toothpick, you can make sure you don't end up with any air bubbles.

We shall see....

Your on the right track with a two part resin or epoxy. Needs to be something like what is used for bar and table tops. You could clamp one side with something that won't stick to what your using. Then make sure it's level and pour some in. Wouldn't take much but when it is cured you'd be set. I've used something like it before but not like this. I've not built a mod but you just solved how to cover and protect the screen for me. Or maybe I just solved it. This thread is great for getting ideas.

 

[custom-classic]

Still trying to decide whether or not to completely chop the top and install a FDV 510...

Seeing it like this makes me wanna hurry up and get it wired.

I gotta figure out a way to seal in the dna screen from the inside before I can use the ice resin on the outside. I figured I'd use 5 min.

epoxy, but I'm worried it'll seep around the screen and jack up the face of it. I definitely want to have it sealed on the inside before

pouring the resin....

Suggestions???

 

[turbocad6]

quigs what I'm not getting with your design is, what is the rear wall of your "tank" going to be, the "top" in your illustrations, the part that sits against the mod? the lid to the box you poured? will it just be the rear wall of the hammond box? I guess that could possibally work with the clear box depending on what the clear box is actually made of but there are only a few plastics that are suitable for constant juice contact like that

I think a lot depends on how well the dragonskin adheres to the box, if adhesion is very good the then 10mm central post won't be necissary because then the only flexible part would be the squonk window, it would be like a mebrane panel and it would def have enough spring back on it's own, hell I think it may actually not compress enough in that kind of setup, may have to play around with squonk hole size with that. one thing I'll say about dragon skin is it sticks well to itself and to very little else, if the squonk winded up peeling the rest of that wall away from the box then you'd wind up back to the return squonk issue I was imagining, I was imagining it more like a stand alone silicone bladder type thing which is where all my return resiliency issues come in, using the box itself as the resist to collapsing and return squonk shouldn't be an issue at all but honestly I can't say I'm confident what your thinking will work. guess that's why it's your idea though, if your feeling good about it then you should go for it

even before I owned my first reo I knew 2 things, 1 was that I wanted a bottom feeder and 2 was that I really wanted a better way of doing it that the current way of squeezing a soft bottle. I started a thread over a year ago here on the very subject and back then I had some pretty good ideas in mind that I think are still valid, but then I got a reo and another and another and truth is the current way is simple and effective so I kinda postponed my desire to reinvent the wheel here. this was the thread I'm talking about: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...n/454929-building-ultimate-bottom-feeder.html


my opinion is I would want to do completely away with anything flexible and compressing. I would want either a solid glass or delrin or delrin/glass tank. as rosuum says you really only need to add + pressure to the tanks volume to achieve the same thing we get by squeezing a soft bottle. I think a solid tank with a plunger would be a very effective way of building a solid feeder tank setup. I did put some ideas in that thread and I've also been thinking about this on the sidelines for over a year too but truth is reinventing the wheel has been pushed to the sidelines as I spent more time and effort in building my dna'd conventional feeders, but I can see myself soon winding up having a nice size army of these more conventional feeders and then I'll probably get back to reinventing the wheel

I've got my own idea of an ultimate bottom feeder now in my head and I've designed what I think is a really awesome way of doing it as a hybrid mod, just need to get the urge to move the thoughts back to the front burner and start prototyping it again

 

[turbocad6]

Still trying to decide whether or not to completely chop the top and install a FDV 510...

Seeing it like this makes me wanna hurry up and get it wired.

I gotta figure out a way to seal in the dna screen from the inside before I can use the ice resin on the outside. I figured I'd use 5 min.

epoxy, but I'm worried it'll seep around the screen and jack up the face of it. I definitely want to have it sealed on the inside before

pouring the resin....

Suggestions???

I would hate to recommend something that doesn't work but honestly I think that even if you used CA glue and got some on the face of the screen, once the clear epoxy is poured the screen will return to crystal clear and the CA wouldn't be visible. I would suggest you test it on a scrap to be sure but the same way sanding scratches disappear with a clearcoat is the same way I believe a little glue on the screen would disappear... if I had some of this I'd test it for you. wonder if micheals might have some of that stuff...

 

[turbocad6]

ha, and quigs I've found another example of one of those projects that only get so far then get pushed to the side in that old thread I just posted, the begginings of one design of my ultimate mini bottom feeder

I do still have this thing sitting in a project box somewhere