BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Robfisher

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Greetings friends,

Here's a sneak peak of how the Grand is coming along. The wood inlay is on without any finish and not even final sanding yet. What's been challenging is getting the wood inlays flush with the rest of the body. If you remember I milled 2.5mm off the sides and 3.3mm off the back. I then epoxied 4mm pieces of wood and painstakingly sanded evenly to flush everything. I wanted to be able to run my finger down the mod and feel no difference between aluminum and wood.
Next I'll do the aluminum inlays in the wood, then sanding (up to 1500 grit) and finally the clear coat lacquer on the wood. The pictures don't really do the wood justice but when the lacquer goes on it will show how stunning it really is. As I said my intentions here are to make a real showpiece out of this Grand.




Capt Steve this is a most beautiful REO! I can't wait to see the finished product! I have saved the pics to my desktop and keep looking at them. I have to find an artist in South Africa to modify one for me... simply awesome! Stunning! :)
 

CaptSteve

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Capt Steve this is a most beautiful REO! I can't wait to see the finished product! I have saved the pics to my desktop and keep looking at them. I have to find an artist in South Africa to modify one for me... simply awesome! Stunning! :)

Thanks for your kind words Rob, I'm glad you like it. Trying to push the limits of bling factor while keeping it classy, hope I can pull it off
 

CaptSteve

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If you ever decide to sell it I have Dibs! ;-)

Well I just finished the new button for it on the lathe and I was planning to inlay in the wood strips of aluminum so I was trying to figure out how I'm going to place these so they look nice when I had a great idea for an inlay instead of stips of aluminum.
When you see what I came up with you'll probably want it even more.
Since this started life as a standard Reo Grand and my objective is to show how far you can push dressing up and beautifying a Reo I decided it would be only fitting to place a calligraphy monogram inlay of a capital R in aluminum on the back in the bottom left hand corner.

The monogram is this and as I said it will be cut in aluminum and inlaid on the back in the lower left hand corner

celtic-calligraphy-alphabet-r.jpg


Here is the new button I turned of the lathe and it has a delrin base which I also turned that makes contact with the positive spring plate. Diameter of the button is 9mm making it real comfortable on the finger and I made it's travel real short (by making the thickness of the delrin long enough).





 

CaptSteve

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Just want to share with you folks something ! found on Amazon which is great for us BFers. These are pre-drilled ss screws which work great as 510 positive center posts. You'll need to slightly file the diameter of the phillips head diameter (just a bit) and you'll get a great fit. Even as they are the fit in the 510 but some light file work will ensure they are a perfect fit.

18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Vented, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, 3/4" Length, #6-32 Threads (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific







 

gdeal

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CaptSteve

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Hey CapSteve, those work well. I put together a detailed BF 510 mod walk-though a couple of months ago using that screw. I posted up in a different thread but thought it may be helpful to post here too.

https://imgur.com/a/ouV6h

Here is that same screw showing squonking action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5fKPrVz3fU

Thanks Gdeal, I had no idea this screw was known in the community, I stumbled on it while I was searching and I ordered some just to see if I could save myself the headache of drilling out my own so excuse my enthousiasm because I'm new to modding. You did a great setup there on your 510 and in fact it's a great help to me to see what others did because I'm planning to turn my own 510 BF connector.
I've been yousing fatdaddy's 510's but I'm just not 100% happy with them so I decided to make my own which will be just as I want it and 100% leak proof. I'm not sure I'll actually use this screw for my 510 (probably not) because one of my top priorities is minimal voltage drop (I'm making a mech woodie BF) and to get that I need a better conductor than SS. But I do want to try this screw too and see how it performs.
Thanks again for linking those pics, they're great help
 

CaptSteve

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I cut the R (for Reo) and it actually turned out quite nice and wasn't that difficult. I printed out the letter on the printer, glued it on the aluminum scrap and then got to work with the files.while holding the piece in a vice. I then sanded the letter with 250 grit and then wet sanded with 1000 grit (that was a challenge). Then polished on the wheels to a high shine.





and this is about where I'll inlay it in the wood and then spray the wood with clear lacquer to seal, protect and give a great finish

 

B2L

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I cut the R (for Reo) and it actually turned out quite nice and wasn't that difficult. I printed out the letter on the printer, glued it on the aluminum scrap and then got to work with the files.while holding the piece in a vice. I then sanded the letter with 250 grit and then wet sanded with 1000 grit (that was a challenge). Then polished on the wheels to a high shine.





and this is about where I'll inlay it in the wood and then spray the wood with clear lacquer to seal, protect and give a great finish


That is looking phenomenal, awesome work!
 
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