BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

[custom-classic]

I think you're right. CA is probably the way to go.

Looks like Michael's has a few to choose from:


Shop Now

Amazon definitely has it.

 

[DavidOH]

You should have done it before you put the screen in. If I built one I would do this. Clamp something to the inside with wax paper or something that won't stick. Then level it and put the epoxy in and let it cure. If you bevel or round the edges of the window. The concave -( would help to keep it from working loose.

 

[custom-classic]

You should have done it before you put the screen in. If I built one I would do this. Clamp something to the inside with wax paper or something that won't stick. Then level it and put the epoxy in and let it cure. If you bevel or round the edges of the window. The concave -( would help to keep it from working loose.

Great idea!!! The screen's not in yet. I just mocked it up to try and get an idea what it was gonna look like finished...


And, turbo, that looks like a project that needs finishing..... Just awesome!!!

 

[turbocad6]

david's right that could work too, it just wouldn't be bonded to the screen

 

[DavidOH]

I've been trying to think of a way to make the screen look bigger with a magnifier of some kind. But word is the dna is going to have a bigger screen so no need to look for that. And it may be that long before I build one.

 

[DavidOH]

david's right that could work too, it just wouldn't be bonded to the screen

If I'm right that'll waterproof it from the outside. Then you just have to take care of it from the inside.

 

[custom-classic]

david's right that could work too, it just wouldn't be bonded to the screen

This is my only concern with doing it that way. The light from the screen would be traveling through the inside surface of the resin and then the outside surface. You might give up a little clarity. I like the idea of it being bonded to the screen....

I'll probably try it using the wax paper first, then once it cures, light the screen up behind it and have a look. I can always pop it out and redo it...

 

[DavidOH]

This is my only concern with doing it that way. The light from the screen would be traveling through the inside surface of the resin and then the outside surface. You might give up a little clarity. I like the idea of it being bonded to the screen....

I'll probably try it using the wax paper first, then once it cures, light the screen up behind it and have a look. I can always pop it out and redo it...

Your using metal so that would work.

I've put this in 2 other threads and have to put it here also. I'm not going to try to build one till this comes out. Some good stuff in the interview if you are into the tech side. But you will need to skip through some of it.

Evolv DNA 40 boaord BIG screen which you can remove | Thailand Vapers

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Evolv DNA 40 boaord BIG screen which you can remove | Thailand Vapers

......nice.

 

[turbocad6]

bonding it will improve the clarity of the screen it will have a lot less glare and it will be better viewable in sunlight. Bonded there is only one glare layer, unbonded there are 3. Ive thought of making a press in insert as a lense which would be similar end result. I also have a sx350 woodvil that im using a clear lexan window on. The window def increases glare in the sun and im afraid to submerge test that one because im woried that even the slightest moisture could cause condensation between the lense and the screen. Bonding eliminates this possibilty. None of this is to say that unbonded is bad, I still like my sx350 woodie and it dont bother me at all I just dont plan on submerging that one intentionally. If your planning to submerge it and build a scuba diving mod then id say def bond it

 

[DavidOH]

bonding it will improve the clarity of the screen it will have a lot less glare and it will be better viewable in sunlight. Bonded there is only one glare layer, unbonded there are 3. Ive thought of making a press in insert as a lense which would be similar end result. I also have a sx350 woodvil that im using a clear lexan window on. The window def increases glare in the sun and im afraid to submerge test that one because im woried that even the slightest moisture could cause condensation between the lense and the screen. Bonding eliminates this possibilty. None of this is to say that unbonded is bad, I still like my sx350 woodie and it dont bother me at all I just dont plan on submerging that one intentionally. If your planning to submerge it and build a scuba diving mod then id say def bond it

Me thinks some experimenting needs to be done.

 

[Quigsworth]

ha, and quigs I've found another example of one of those projects that only get so far then get pushed to the side in that old thread I just posted, the begginings of one design of my ultimate mini bottom feeder ...I do still have this thing sitting in a project box somewhere

I read through the thread you linked and I think it's fair to say you and I, while both enthusiasts of the hobby, approach it from completely different angles. I have to say I sometimes struggle with my chosen approach
...I surround myself with cutting edge tech, I have for years, but for whatever reason, I gravitate to an almost "old world" tech when it comes to mod building....there's just something about the Thomas Edison/steam-punk era clockwork, cog and lever tech that can be incorporated into these devices that grabs me...I think it goes back to my childhood love of Meccano

According to the Hammond site their translucent boxes are polycarb...I don't have any juices that react so using the back of the batt mod shouldn't be an issue but in looking over your concept drawing of your box with the pump piston and return juice channel and so on...as much as it intrigues me and my own gears start to turn I took a vape off my new woody...my new woody is running .3 worth of #26 duals, shoe horned into a Atomic...not a lot of space for my fave 3mm silica so I run doubled up 2mm RxW where the ends just lick the deck, I run this hypno based juice with a high VG ratio (otherwise it's too acidy) in this mod...and at .3 on RxW, (which isn't the best at retaining a lot of juice reserve) I squonk till it bleeds and just power through the saturation...I then I thought, man, everyone of my mods is unique that way...there is no way I could build some feed system that could possibly accommodate all those variables...I simply require (and prefer) the actual tactile feedback of physically applying pressure to a flexible container...the length of time I hold a squonk, the juice/wick/RDA design variables, the temp., do I want a saturated wick to power through at .25 ohms for a vape I could chew or do I want something subtle coiled at .6 where it only gets good after I've cooked off an accidental over squonk?...this list of variables is almost endless.

I get what you're saying Turbo, to build the ultimate bf, power regulated with an metered pump mechanism for the juice is an ambitious venture and a fun puzzle for the gray matter, but for me, it takes too much of the hands-on "organic" nature of vaping out of my control...don't get me wrong, our diverse approaches to what is essentially the same ends is great...there is a lot of cross-over tech that I'll be taking from you (in fact I already have)...but for my tastes (at least atm)...a lightweight, dual 18650 mech with a lot of juice capacity (plus a break from the same'o, same'o in design) is my driver.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Still trying to decide whether or not to completely chop the top and install a FDV 510...

Seeing it like this makes me wanna hurry up and get it wired.

I gotta figure out a way to seal in the dna screen from the inside before I can use the ice resin on the outside. I figured I'd use 5 min.

epoxy, but I'm worried it'll seep around the screen and jack up the face of it. I definitely want to have it sealed on the inside before

pouring the resin....

Suggestions???

Man, it's going to be tough protecting the chip without massive globbing it. All my BFSs eventually leak Joose to the bottom of the inside of the mod. That's a tough spot to put it into.

 

[custom-classic]

There'll be a shelf between the dna board and the battery/ bottle. That cavity as well as the recessed area where the screen and switches are will be completely sealed water tight. Turbocad has a video somewhere on here of his Woodville that he did this way. He actually submerged it in water and fired it over and over to show how watertight it is. Good stuff!!!



Eta video:

 

[WharfRat1976]

There'll be a shelf between the dna board and the battery/ bottle. That cavity as well as the recessed area where the screen and switches are will be completely sealed water tight. Turbocad has a video somewhere on here of his Woodville that he did this way. He actually submerged it in water and fired it over and over to show how watertight it is. Good stuff!!!



Eta video:

I saw this- crazy. Great, I figured you had it solved. The box looks killer. Don't rush it- get it right. Really nice...

 

[CaptSteve]

Greetings friends

I'll start this post off by saying that back in June this year I contacted Peter (pdib) and got on his list for an Oliver R. Peter made it crystal clear that the list is long and distinguished and the wait period is running well over a year. Since I really love the look of his Oliver I have no problem waiting for such a beautiful mod.

Now the thing is I figured I'd make my wait a bit more comfortable since I probably still have 10-11 months to go. I'll say again that this mod is made for my personal use and since it's a knock off of a dibie it will never be sold.
It ain't no Oliver but it captures the Oliver theme and I made it full mechanical using Peter's tried and tested methods with a few twists (I do plan to install a fuse but I didn't have one). It's made of dark walnut with brass and copper contacts for minimum voltage drop and I used an old GG mech button. The positive contact is adjustable to ensure perfect contact every time. I still need to install magnets in the top and bottom caps and apply finish to the wood after a final sanding.

I was designing as you may remember another woodie squonker and was planning that as a full mech as well. I've now changed my mind on that and am going with a DNA-40 chip instead.



The top cap inside view



The bottom cap inside view



Main body top view

 

[KurrptSenate]

that's awesome

looks like the fat daddy 510. I assume it's the new spring loaded, bottom feeding version. no?

 

[CaptSteve]

Yep it's exactly that

 

[KurrptSenate]

really good man

you plan on making any more for "personal" use?

 

[CaptSteve]

Absolutely not. The scope of this thread isn't to sell stuff, and when I said this is for personal use I 100% meant it and didn't mean "personal use". I hope that's clear.

We make stuff as a hobby for our own enjoyment and not to try and make a buck of other members.