Note: tone does not translate well in text unless you're a professional writer. I am not a professional writer. The following is not posted to target or defend. It's just info.
I've probably built about a half dozen box mods from MadVapes parts....maybe more. Some the pre drilled with inclusive parts "kits" and the rest with clean parts. Every single one worked and is still working...wherever they currently are. (This post is taking a stupid long time for me to bang out because I'm vaping my sweet 3xAA box mod right now...and vaping and vaping....refilling the cart....and vaping....wait....one more hit) Did they all work right after assembly? Hell no. Did it take rocket surgery to get them all to work great? No. These are cheap-... parts banged out of a factory in China. If the sum of parts in this assembled "kit" cost $39 then there'd be something to complain about. It's 8 bucks (one pack of corner gas station smokes here in NY). The best plan; If you're going to build 4 mods, order 5 or 6. That's what I did. I considered luck to be on my side that I was able to build working mods from all the parts I ordered and wouldn't be too upset if I didn't. If it makes anyone feel better you can go to Radio Shack and spend about double on everything for all the same stuff. Like much of the cheap products sold throughout the planet these days these battery boxes and switches are probably pumped out of one factory in China...no matter who's name is on the label.
A few quick Box Mod tips;
Go to Home Depot (or similar...hey, even Radio Shack) and get some heavier wire, around 20ga should do. I work on cars and have a ton of relay wire (roughly 18ga) piled in the shop, this is what I use, space permitting. Eliminating resistance from your wiring (cheap thin stuff pre-attatched to the boxes) makes your batteries last longer and sends more juice to your vaporizer. (Electronics 101)
Have the right tools handy.
I could build a mod using my 200 watt soldering gun. Better to use something 30 watts or smaller with a nice clean tip.
X-Acto knife or similar. If you're not trimming anything you're not doing it right.
Bench grinder or cut-off wheels on a Dremel or similar tool. Grinding down the horn switch nut on two opposing sides allows it to fit within a battery space without having to mess with trimming brittle plastic (AA box).
Don't be afraid to tweak things. These are battery boxes designed to fit standard spec batteries, i.e. "AA"/UM-3 - "AAA"/UM-4 etc. alkaline/lithium-iron sulphide cells or NiMH or NiCd. They haven't changed the design since the 70's. They're not designed for protected Lithium Ion cells. The dimensions are not the same. Simply taking the positive battery contact and giving it a slight bend towards the battery (or building up a small bit of solder) will solve the simple connection issue without having to further modify the plastic box.
There's a ton more tips n tricks out there for these things but I need to go pass the hell out.
G'nite.
And remember, if you're not having fun building these, don't bother.
I've probably built about a half dozen box mods from MadVapes parts....maybe more. Some the pre drilled with inclusive parts "kits" and the rest with clean parts. Every single one worked and is still working...wherever they currently are. (This post is taking a stupid long time for me to bang out because I'm vaping my sweet 3xAA box mod right now...and vaping and vaping....refilling the cart....and vaping....wait....one more hit) Did they all work right after assembly? Hell no. Did it take rocket surgery to get them all to work great? No. These are cheap-... parts banged out of a factory in China. If the sum of parts in this assembled "kit" cost $39 then there'd be something to complain about. It's 8 bucks (one pack of corner gas station smokes here in NY). The best plan; If you're going to build 4 mods, order 5 or 6. That's what I did. I considered luck to be on my side that I was able to build working mods from all the parts I ordered and wouldn't be too upset if I didn't. If it makes anyone feel better you can go to Radio Shack and spend about double on everything for all the same stuff. Like much of the cheap products sold throughout the planet these days these battery boxes and switches are probably pumped out of one factory in China...no matter who's name is on the label.
A few quick Box Mod tips;
Go to Home Depot (or similar...hey, even Radio Shack) and get some heavier wire, around 20ga should do. I work on cars and have a ton of relay wire (roughly 18ga) piled in the shop, this is what I use, space permitting. Eliminating resistance from your wiring (cheap thin stuff pre-attatched to the boxes) makes your batteries last longer and sends more juice to your vaporizer. (Electronics 101)
Have the right tools handy.
I could build a mod using my 200 watt soldering gun. Better to use something 30 watts or smaller with a nice clean tip.
X-Acto knife or similar. If you're not trimming anything you're not doing it right.
Bench grinder or cut-off wheels on a Dremel or similar tool. Grinding down the horn switch nut on two opposing sides allows it to fit within a battery space without having to mess with trimming brittle plastic (AA box).
Don't be afraid to tweak things. These are battery boxes designed to fit standard spec batteries, i.e. "AA"/UM-3 - "AAA"/UM-4 etc. alkaline/lithium-iron sulphide cells or NiMH or NiCd. They haven't changed the design since the 70's. They're not designed for protected Lithium Ion cells. The dimensions are not the same. Simply taking the positive battery contact and giving it a slight bend towards the battery (or building up a small bit of solder) will solve the simple connection issue without having to further modify the plastic box.
There's a ton more tips n tricks out there for these things but I need to go pass the hell out.
G'nite.
And remember, if you're not having fun building these, don't bother.
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