Brass Bat

[asdaq]

Some of you might remember this from a while back, but I've made some changes along the way to economize space and function. With Dan's Micro-G:

Exploded view:

This all works fine and good, but the tank holds .8ml and only uses half of the mod's tube, plus the 510 connector takes up space. I had thought of getting some electronics in the 10mm ID tube, but nothing has come along yet. So, time to look into other options.

One of derJuf's style atties would work, at about 1.1ml as seen below
the mod, note the aluminum mouthpiece 10mm below also:

Lets make the tank tube 70mm long (OK, I made two of them):

Add a dedicated connector (swappable):

Installed:

Add a brass cowling to clear the springs and remade the alu top to accept an oring, shortened the alu mouthpiece to be set inside a longer brass tube:

All together:

Goes with me regularly to work for those discreet moments, capacity 2.9ml. Sorry bout all the dust particles in the pics.

 

[DonG]

Very nice. I presume the bottom plate is held by spring tension? Depress the connecting rods to release the bottom plate for battery changes; and that the button is threaded so can be tightened to lock the switch in an off position?

 

[asdaq]

Yes, you got it precisely. One small thing, I got a little too zealous adding glue in the bottom of the connector and should have added a pull ribbon or something. You can't push the atty down to pop it out, which is better for the pocket, so it has to be pretty much completely taken apart to shake the battery out the top.

 

[breaktru]

Nice asdaq, real nice

 

[Robert T]

asdaq, I really like your style. Super nice.

 

[kardus]

Uhhh where's mine?

Looks great! Really interested in buttons like that...did you make it or buy it somewhere? Or know of anywhere I can get something similar.

 

[DonG]

Maybe a little thicker bottom plate. Could inlay a small piece of PCB with two contact points instead of the soldier and wire. Then the battery could be freely changed from the bottom. Just an idea.

 

[asdaq]

Thanks guys. The switch I made but it is quite simple and easy to do. With small refinements it is mostly a brass screw with a knurled nut that travels in a presta valve tube.

DonG, usually the wire is free on the connector end, goes through a slot where the tubes meet and can be moved out of the way without stressing it much. Here it is shorter, thicker and quite tightly placed. I could grab it and pull the connector out, but i don't want to put strain on it. Something else to grab, loosening the connector's fit or gluing to the bottom plate would do it too.

 

[slimest]

asdaq, great as always! With this AW IMR battery you even don't need a stabilizer, the battery itself has a very stable voltage.
Did you solder the magnet, or just glued?

 

[asdaq]

I surprised myself by taking it down to 3.15v once, I thought it would be at 3.6 and it didn't feel like straining. The magnet at the bottom of the connector is CA glued in place, the one from the battery positive sticks on it's own. This setup has a total of 5 magnets in it, kinda got out of hand with that part I guess.

 

[kardus]

Are you able to show us a bit closer what you used for the switch? I think I may have a few dunlop valves somewere (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1f/Dunlop_valve.jpg).

 

[asdaq]

Here's one that shows the parts:

The Dunlop I'm not so familiar with, but the presta has a 6mm OD and is smooth on the inside, ~4mm. The Schrader has a 8mm OD and is threaded inside, which isn't so suited for this design. I've got another something on it's way that takes advantage of that.

Also, if you can find a AA clock movement, there is a brass part inside that has a hex nut flange on one end, threading that matches a Schrader nut and a better tolerance smooth 6mm ID.