Brass tube size for threading connectors 801,901,510,400

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Cisco

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Hey Guys,

Just some confirmation that these taps and dies are a perfect match to the factory threads.http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/30256-taps-dies-901-801-510-4xx.html

So I got some brass tube in and went ahead and threaded them for 901,801,510.



For 901:
.3125 OD x .2285 ID x .042 wall thickness is a perfect match for threading your own connectors.The OD is a little to large but the die threads without issue.

For 801/510

.375 OD x .245 ID x .065 wall thickness. The OD is a little to large for threading for an 801 connector so I had to mill it down from .375 to about .355 for the die to catch without binding. For the 510 the ID had to be drilled out from .245 to about .260 for the tap to run without binding.

These brass tubes are the closet match that I could find. I got these brass tubes at Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com, they have no minimum order and will sell in small quantity's. I am sure there are other web supplies also.


Cheers

Cisco...
 

DocBurN

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Jun 18, 2009
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Im interested in the 510 part.

1) With your recommanded tube how did you drilled the inner diameter from .245 to about .260 ? With a .260 "tip" and a drill ? (not sure about the term "tip", my english is really bad..) or maybe you just grinded the ID with a dremel or something ?

2) I mostly want to thread my own 510 battery connector where I can plug 510 attys to mods .. RCA is working but i would rather use connectors. Question, once your tube is threaded, i guess we have to find a way to isolate the positive and negative inside the connector.. install a center piece.. how do you plan on doing this ? Any idea oh great lord Cisco :D

Thanks again for all the info, you solved so many people connectors problems with their mods, you should create a paypal donation link next to your name.
 

bapgood

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I know some of this is old news, but I thought I would share a spread sheet I created for easily figuring out funky metric thread dimensions.

View attachment Metric_Thread.xlsx

There is a drop down to select thread pitch

ScreenShot609_zpsa82ddd8e.jpg



Then you get thread dimensions in both mm and inch.

ScreenShot610_zps17200e6c.jpg
 

Maglin

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Dec 22, 2009
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For the ID you should use a reamer. Only way to make the hole round. A drill bit will not make a round hole and it will always go oversize. I use carbide drills to get close but with only .015" to remove I would use a reamer. A dremel is worse than using a drill bit and at this hole size would be darn near impossible. If you don't have a lathe you could try to use a drill press and make a floating fixture to put the work piece in. You could try a drill at very low speed like around 250 rpm but you might need to use a smaller drill bit first then the reamer. You run the risk of breaking your tooling using a drill. It would be cheaper getting it done at a machine shop or just buying already build connectors. I can't come close to making them for what you can get them for. But I can make them with a much better fit.

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Vapor Fiend

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Apr 14, 2009
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Im interested in the 510 part.

1) With your recommanded tube how did you drilled the inner diameter from .245 to about .260 ? With a .260 "tip" and a drill ? (not sure about the term "tip", my english is really bad..) or maybe you just grinded the ID with a dremel or something ?

2) I mostly want to thread my own 510 battery connector where I can plug 510 attys to mods .. RCA is working but i would rather use connectors. Question, once your tube is threaded, i guess we have to find a way to isolate the positive and negative inside the connector.. install a center piece.. how do you plan on doing this ? Any idea oh great lord Cisco :D

Thanks again for all the info, you solved so many people connectors problems with their mods, you should create a paypal donation link next to your name.


For getting the best ID, find a drill that's as close as possible to your finish ID, then use a reamer to take out the last .005 - .010 or so. No more than .010 though. Or you could circularly interpolate with maybe a 1/16th flat end mill.

I don't have too much experience machining brass or copper. Should I use a 2, 3 or 4 flute?



Um and just to be clear here, we're talking about the female connections here right?
 
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