nah, you've just proven that you absolutely don't understand the topic or the info. Have fun.. I'm out.
Broke my charger, can I use a spare
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It's pretty much apparent that it's you who lack the proper understanding, to the degree that you even link sources that don't support your claims. In addition you constantly mix up chargers and power adapters, already that is an indication that you're confused (btw, my reading comprehension is fine, thank you very much. At least around 100 peer reviewed academic publications by very reputable publishing houses would seem to suggest that.
Random googled sources, not the top experts, but as it's a fairly basic point it should suffice in this context. And while we are dealing with charging with other than usb wall adapters as well, the principle is the same:
https://www.google.se/amp/s/www.gro...right-power-adapter-charger-phone-laptop/amp/
Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
Can I use a charger that provides the same voltage but a different amperage? - Ask Leo!
So, it is you, the supposed expert, who is providing the wrong information (though your links actually contradict you, providing accurate information to those who read and comprehend them). And thus you're providing potentially dangerous advice. The fact that no one agrees with you and many who know this stuff (I'm not one of the experts here, but the others who are) correct you, providing good sources that clearly support what they're saying, should tell you something. Please take a step back, reconsider what you think you know, refresh your information, and be prepared to admit (to yourself at least) that you might be wrong. In the meantime, refrain from giving people advice.
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Ok. This all would have been a lot clearer, if you had just said this up front. I think the rest of us are talking about vaping devices where you plug one end of a micro-USB cord into a slot on the device, and stick the other end into one of these 5v USB "wall wart" AC adapters:
Most devices that I have seen will charge this way with any old cable, and any old wall wart, that you hook them up to. (Not that that's a good idea, but it does technically "work.") No special "smart" charger required. So it is up to you the user, to select one that won't be overloaded by the amount of current that will be flowing through (or "drawn from") it.
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Except the USB power circuit is an example of exactly what you're referring to...
And the typical fail point is a testament to how they're actually designed.
And you finally admit here, that what you're actually talking about isn't a typical, cheap wall wart or car adapter whether you'd like to admit it or not.
And there's good reason to answer the questions I asked that you conveniently ignored.
With all this experience and "knowledge", I highly suggest you put a meter to your 5V power supplies some time in the near future.
Tapatyped
Dude, take a few adapter apart and try to learn how they are build, the parts that are in them and what they do.. all you're doing is just ranting the same crap polishing your turds, and I'm tired of repeating.
Again, I just hope that newbies put you on ignore as I'll be doing, as soon as possible to not end up in a freaking mess over your crap.
If I could have liked your post a couple dozen more times, I would have. Instead, please have one of these:
When you quote someone you're not supposed to edit or add to the quote without indicating that you have done so. While there's little risk that you're misleading anyone in this case it's nonetheless dishonest.
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That's ridiculous and arrogant. What you are posting partially sounds for me like you want defiantly to manifest some "alternative facts"...no matter if true or not...
For someone who claims to be an elecronic expert...that is embarrassing, nothing else. You definitely and obvisiously are not.
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That's ridiculous and arrogant. What you are posting partially sounds for me like you want defiantly to manifest some "alternative facts"...no matter if true or not...
For someone who claims to be an elecronic expert...that is embarrassing, nothing else. You definitely and obvisiously are not.
Sorry, but I provided the correct info, the other guys are stuck on some sort of belief that they read about somewhere and have done nothing but try to twist a few things to accommodate themselves to save face.
I stated clearly the basics of how adapters and how most USB charged devices work, if you want to jump into the crap that they have ranted on, go right ahead, but you'll be the fool for it. There's many things that they've mentioned that if you were in electronics and such, you'd see how they are nothing more than "internet experts" but sadly gained their faulty knowledge from bad sources.
If you want to educate yourself, then read these, you'll see that they support what I've stated.
How USB charging works, or how to avoid blowing up your smartphone - ExtremeTech
Can You Use Any Charger With Any Device?
Charging Batteries From a USB Port – Battery University
http://pocketnow.com/2014/12/25/speed-chargers
https://www.quora.com/Can-I-charge-...puts-different-amperes-than-my-normal-charger
Can I charge my devices with any charger? - fixedByVonnie
There's a LOT more to USB charging, but the simple facts will remain... unless you have a faulty device (or so old that it doesn't have the proper circuitry), you can charge it with ANY adapter. The Amps level should only impact the charging time. If your device isn't charging right, then either you're using the device at the same time and consuming more than the charger can provide or there is a malfunction in either the device or the adapter. If the adapter is not outputing the power that it's been built to provide, then it is faulty, especially if it gets hot. I can easily plug my tablet that needs 2.1A for it's "default" charging, into my computer or an adapter that outputs 0.5A, and it WILL charge it, but simply take all night to do it. Neither my computer nor my adapter will get warm whatsoever because I DON'T USE JUNK.
Anyways... if you want to be taken in by these clueless people that have proven that they are clueless to what they are talking about, ranted while using a LOT of cut and paste techno jargon that is so ridiculous that it was painful to watch.. but I gather that you appear to be taken by it.
If you understood how much they absolutely discredited themselves the moment they touched onto computer power supplies and motherboards, plus the OHM rants, you'd slap yourself.
Final note as I see that many have missed the plane altogether and the rants of some might results in someone ending up with a bad scenario.
Here's a rundown:
Devices
1) some old legacy devices (USB 1 and early 2 era) don't have much in terms of circuitry, they "assume" that the only power coming will be 0.5A, if you have such a device, only charge it via a 0.5 adapter or a computer.
2) most devices have a charging circuitry that handles and manages the incoming power. They will take in the full incoming load until the batteries indicates that it's at 80%, then will trickle charge it until it's topped off.
3) some devices have a secondary system where they MUST be able to communicate with the adapter (smart type).... some are so precise that unless the adapter is either the original brand type with the correct chipset or such replacement, it won't even charge. (My tablet is such, if I plug anything but it's proprietary adapter, the tablet knows it and will give me messages about it.) You MUST use a data capable cable with these.
Adapters
1) these are power convertors switching the AC to DC, for the USB protocols, they are supposed to be 5V and can have a wide range of Amperes rates.
2) some are nothing more than a transformer, and a resistor or two and a capacitor. They blindly output the set voltage and Amps that they are built to output, these are usually the very cheap ones and sadly, the most common that people get because they lose or break the good one that came with their device, and these are cheap. (and this item is part of the debate going on here that so many can't wrap their heads around)
3) "smart" adapters, these have chipsets that can detect changes in power and can switch their Amp output accordingly. Most times, they have a USB communication protocol so to communicate with the device.
4) proprietary adapters, they have more than just a simple chipset, they will synchronize with the device and adjust it's output accordingly.
USB cable
1) power only cable. Made for only power/charging, they offer no communication with adapters or ports.
2) data (and power) cable, usually standard, but some can have better performance.
3) high end data cable, will have better shielding, thicker wire, some will have built-in chipsets as another "safety" feature.
Lots of people that fry something tend to not pay attention to their cables. I've seen people yank on them, bend and fold, twist, etc, not understanding that some of these cables are cheap, and you can end up breaking them, causing shorts, that can fry a device or adapter.
So it comes down to: as long as your device isn't an antique, just use a good cable and a good adapter, the Amps output isn't important but the closer to the device's input capacity, the better. Lower Amp output (than the device's capacity) will make it charge slower, higher output (than the device's capacity) does nothing, but should something got wrong, the higher incoming might result in issues such as an overload. (and this is the other part of the debate going on here that so many can't wrap their heads around)
And finally, for the last time: if your adapter is getting hot, there's something wrong, get a better one, and at that point, just get one that matches your device's capacity.
So in answer to the original question of the OP: Yes, you can use just about ANY adapter, but note that most regulated mods charge at 1A, so you would be better served and safer to get a good 1A adapter for it (or if you look up your mod and find what the input is, get something that will match it).
Here's a rundown:
Devices
1) some old legacy devices (USB 1 and early 2 era) don't have much in terms of circuitry, they "assume" that the only power coming will be 0.5A, if you have such a device, only charge it via a 0.5 adapter or a computer.
2) most devices have a charging circuitry that handles and manages the incoming power. They will take in the full incoming load until the batteries indicates that it's at 80%, then will trickle charge it until it's topped off.
3) some devices have a secondary system where they MUST be able to communicate with the adapter (smart type).... some are so precise that unless the adapter is either the original brand type with the correct chipset or such replacement, it won't even charge. (My tablet is such, if I plug anything but it's proprietary adapter, the tablet knows it and will give me messages about it.) You MUST use a data capable cable with these.
Adapters
1) these are power convertors switching the AC to DC, for the USB protocols, they are supposed to be 5V and can have a wide range of Amperes rates.
2) some are nothing more than a transformer, and a resistor or two and a capacitor. They blindly output the set voltage and Amps that they are built to output, these are usually the very cheap ones and sadly, the most common that people get because they lose or break the good one that came with their device, and these are cheap. (and this item is part of the debate going on here that so many can't wrap their heads around)
3) "smart" adapters, these have chipsets that can detect changes in power and can switch their Amp output accordingly. Most times, they have a USB communication protocol so to communicate with the device.
4) proprietary adapters, they have more than just a simple chipset, they will synchronize with the device and adjust it's output accordingly.
USB cable
1) power only cable. Made for only power/charging, they offer no communication with adapters or ports.
2) data (and power) cable, usually standard, but some can have better performance.
3) high end data cable, will have better shielding, thicker wire, some will have built-in chipsets as another "safety" feature.
Lots of people that fry something tend to not pay attention to their cables. I've seen people yank on them, bend and fold, twist, etc, not understanding that some of these cables are cheap, and you can end up breaking them, causing shorts, that can fry a device or adapter.
So it comes down to: as long as your device isn't an antique, just use a good cable and a good adapter, the Amps output isn't important but the closer to the device's input capacity, the better. Lower Amp output (than the device's capacity) will make it charge slower, higher output (than the device's capacity) does nothing, but should something got wrong, the higher incoming might result in issues such as an overload. (and this is the other part of the debate going on here that so many can't wrap their heads around)
And finally, for the last time: if your adapter is getting hot, there's something wrong, get a better one, and at that point, just get one that matches your device's capacity.
So in answer to the original question of the OP: Yes, you can use just about ANY adapter, but note that most regulated mods charge at 1A, so you would be better served and safer to get a good 1A adapter for it (or if you look up your mod and find what the input is, get something that will match it).
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Capacity?!?!?!
Battery University?!?!?!
Congratulations
... YOU DON'T USE JUNK.
And you ASSUME someone NEEDING ADVICE can tell the difference.
For the record, a motherboard has these safeguards in place.
Your wall wart and car adapter rarely do. Period.
A little example of how clueless I actually am...
I'm 2genewb... HP DPS 600PB How To Mod for charging power supply. - Electric Motors, ESCs, batteries, etc. @ URC Forums
Just playing around...
(Yes... I built it)
Tapatyped
Battery University?!?!?!
Congratulations
... YOU DON'T USE JUNK.
And you ASSUME someone NEEDING ADVICE can tell the difference.
For the record, a motherboard has these safeguards in place.
Your wall wart and car adapter rarely do. Period.
A little example of how clueless I actually am...
I'm 2genewb... HP DPS 600PB How To Mod for charging power supply. - Electric Motors, ESCs, batteries, etc. @ URC Forums
Just playing around...
(Yes... I built it)
Tapatyped
This. This right here. How? How are both the the amps and the voltage set independently? Are those values not, each, a function of the other one? And does the attached device (specifically, the resistance of the circuit that is completed by attaching the device) not determine the constant ratio by which the first two values are related? You seem to be saying that a 1A adapter (for example) puts out both 5v and 1A, at the same time, and the rest of us are (or at least I am) saying we didn't think that was physically possible except under one, very specific condition.
So please explain how the adapter knows when to decrease the current as the battery nears full charge, and how it knows when to kill the current flow altogether - if this is indeed how usb adapters work according to you? And how is this possible if using cables with no data wires in them (or mods that don't have the data pins soldered)?
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That's what everyone else has been saying. He seems to believe that the adapter decides how much current it provides, and that it in some way communicates with the mod. That's why I've asked these questions, in clarification to all he's claimed.
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Per his post #71, he is stating the device controls the flow, not the adapter.
Or are you talking about something else?
If anything is clear, it's that even he doesn't seem to know what he's talking about, since he keeps contradicting himself.
First, in post #8, he says a 1A device (he uses a cell phone as an example) with a 2A adapter is just fine, because the device will "max out its input power" at 1A, indicating that it's the receiving device which dictates current flow (even though he later chastises us for using the phrase "amps are pulled, not pushed" to illustrate the exact same concept.)
Then immediately after, in post #9, he says it's also cool to use a .5A adapter with the same phone. That it will just "max out the adapter" and everything will be peachy. Indicating that it's the sending device that dictates current flow.
So, which one is it? The sending device, or the receiving device? They can't both be in charge...?
Seemingly, it would be okay to use an adapter rated higher than your device, and it's also okay to use one rated lower? So basically, he is saying you can use any adapter, for any device, and the ratings mean nothing, then? Bro, something just doesn't add up.
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