Build a bottom feeder mod with a sx350 chipset
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I haven't made the holes for the +/- switches yet. I may just use the tilt function for adjusting up and down. But if you plan to add those switches, it would depend on what switch you use. I would say 1 mm larger than the diameter of the plunger would be about right.
Those switches that I bought are for the fire button. The plunger is 7.0??mm so a 8mm hole is what I will drill. I can always make the hole larger if needed.
Update: I have found that I can get Mother of Pearl inlay dots, sold for guitars. They come in several styles and diameters, the ones I'm ordering are 8mm x 1.5mm. I'll glue them to the switch button to extent it and it will make a nice touch.
8mm Mother of Pearl Inlay Dots | Allparts.com
Abalone Inlay Dots I like these Abalone inlays as well.
http://www.allparts.com/LT-1479-081-8mm-Abalone-Inlay-Dots_p_2179.html
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When I made my "Arlo" box, {plastic case} I drilled for the tactile buttons with a #5 drill {.2055"} and the buttons pressed into the case. No epoxy needed to this day.
Since this case is aluminum, you need to go slightly bigger, perhaps a #4 {.209"} or a #3 {.213"}......Maybe, one of these sizes will achieve the correct clearance for a press fit with aluminum............
Hope this helps.
I purchased mine off Ebay as well. But, while searching for other components I came across these 688-SKHCBFA010 on Mouser. It's the same switch, the description states that the switches have silver contacts.
Mouser also carries the little round "Hana mod" type switches.
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I dont understand why you would say you cant regulate down with the 60w upgrade. Im looking at my screen right now and it says 1.62v 8.3w 0.3ohms it is the latest 60w file infact it will go down to 1.26v
YiHi SX350 Improved 60w upgrade Software
The specs change for this chip change all most weekly. This statement from their site states the limitation is from 51w-60w starting at 1.2 ohms. The 35w and 50w upgrades do not have the limitation. There was a spec sheet that showed that but it has been taken down. I am happy to see they have continued to update and improve this chip. The chip that I have was ordered prior to the 8/13 software upgrade was released.
The specs change for this chip change all most weekly. This statement from their site states the limitation is from 51w-60w starting at 1.2 ohms. The 35w and 50w upgrades do not have the limitation. There was a spec sheet that showed that but it has been taken down. I am happy to see they have continued to update and improve this chip. The chip that I have was ordered prior to the 8/13 software upgrade was released.
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I squared the sides of the box using a sanding disc attachment on my table top table saw. This step can be accomplished in many different ways. It's not absolutely necessary, but it does make the atomizer sit squarely on top. After squaring the sides some of the edges aren't as rounded as before. It will require some work by hand and with a Dremmel to get them rounded again.
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Side by side view of my 1590G box next to a VV Reo Grand. The cutout on the 1590 is not for squanking it's for the display screen. The squanking opening will be on the opposite side.
I drilled the hole for the Fatdaddy 510 assembly using a 3/8" bit. The hole was snug so I opened it up a little with a Dremmel cone grinding bit.
I drilled the hole for the fire switch using a 3/8" drill bit. I then used a countersink bit to taper the edges of the hole.
Tip: Make sure that you check then double check everything before drilling holes. It's so easy to miss measure or pick a location that doesn't work out. If that happens your back to square one in a hurry.
I drilled the hole for the Fatdaddy 510 assembly using a 3/8" bit. The hole was snug so I opened it up a little with a Dremmel cone grinding bit.
I drilled the hole for the fire switch using a 3/8" drill bit. I then used a countersink bit to taper the edges of the hole.
Tip: Make sure that you check then double check everything before drilling holes. It's so easy to miss measure or pick a location that doesn't work out. If that happens your back to square one in a hurry.
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I inlayed a Lexan cover into the display opening. It's a little tricky since the opening was hand made. I cut the Lexan with a hack saw, making it a little larger than the opening. I fitted it by using 100 grit sand paper and simply sanding the edges until it would fit snuggly in the opening.
Once again make small adjustments at a time and check the fit often.
Once again make small adjustments at a time and check the fit often.
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I'm working at a very leisurely pace, it should be easy to catch up with me. This build is for my enjoyment and I want to get it right. When you get started keep me informed of your progress.
I'm done I'll get some pics online in a bit. Sadly I couldn't mod my quasar for bottom feed. All my small bits are dull. But it is looking awesome and running great for a first try at a build. Heck even first try soldering
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Nice job, I'm jealous. I would have been smart to make a wood box first like you did.
I'm running into some problems with the material that I wanted to use in mine. I have some nylon sheet that I'm finding to be very difficult to work with. It's hard to cut, hard to file and really hard to heat and mold. I wanted to use it to make an enclosure from it for my chipset. I don't give up easily but this stuff has me beaten. Tomorrow I need to make a trip to Home Depot, to find something else to use instead.
I'm running into some problems with the material that I wanted to use in mine. I have some nylon sheet that I'm finding to be very difficult to work with. It's hard to cut, hard to file and really hard to heat and mold. I wanted to use it to make an enclosure from it for my chipset. I don't give up easily but this stuff has me beaten. Tomorrow I need to make a trip to Home Depot, to find something else to use instead.
It's Alive!! I got the Quasar modified into a bottom feeder. I put plasti-dip on the case. Just a couple of adjustments and it's good to go. Need to eliminate the battery wobble and some tweaks of the switch. Ill post pics tomorrow
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I'm impressed, BJ. Good work! Jim, I am also following your build closely! Any updates?
I'm working on my 2nd now but using walnut. A lot harder wood than the basswood I used first so I'm having some difficulty. Pics maybe Monday. Working all weekend
I apologize to any that have followed this thread for the lack of progress. I got sidetracked by real world issues. I will continue with updates as I am able to make some headway. Maybe it wasn't such a good idea to do this build and thread at the same time. I'm looking forward to see pics of your new build BJ.
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