Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

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retird

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KTMRider

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Quick question for you guys. Looking through the DNA 40 spec sheet it looks like I can use 22g wire for all the connections. Is this safe to do or should I use larger wire for the battery and 510?

If you ever plan on using it above 25w, I'd go with the recommended gauge wires. 18g for the battery and 510 connector, 24g for the charger and buttons.
 

JimmyDB

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Quick question for you guys. Looking through the DNA 40 spec sheet it looks like I can use 22g wire for all the connections. Is this safe to do or should I use larger wire for the battery and 510?

Page 9 of their DNA40 document shows 18AWG as recommended. I don't know how they come up with 'minimum' anyway... before the wire melts... before the wire heats up... before you are wasting power on the wire heat up... aluminum, copper, silver, gold... doesn't say... stranded or solid... doesn't say. How they came up with recommended probably involves the size of the through-hole... but I would rather have a very short bottle-kneck from using larger wire than waste more power heating my supply and load lines.

EDIT: I just ran a few numbers... at 12A (from battery or to atty, either way) with 5 inches total wire path for the current... 22AWG is right about 2% voltage drop (rises with lower battery voltage)... so I wouldn't want to go smaller, but you could get away with it... you start to burn off more than just mW pretty quickly though. Example: 30AWG copper at 25C... nearly dead battery still pushing amps trying to get you your 40Ws... and you could be wasting as much as 7W just heating your wires.
 
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DejayRezme

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    Quick question for you guys. Looking through the DNA 40 spec sheet it looks like I can use 22g wire for all the connections. Is this safe to do or should I use larger wire for the battery and 510?

    I can't tell you for sure but I would follow the recommendation. But the biggest wire I was physically able to fit through the connectors was about 18.5 AWG (0.75mm^2 cross section). There is a trick to strip the wire long, cut a few strands out from the center to be able to insert it and pull the thicker part through.
     

    aldenf

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    I'm looking for the "perfect" power switch/button for my build. Perfect to me is a maximum of 12mm exposed on the enclosure and at least somewhat clicky. I do not need a bezel around the button but not against one either. Anti-vandal switches are out as the smallest I can find, supposedly clicky, have 12mm shafts but 15+mm bezels. I'm thinking more along the lines of a Vapor Shark fire button.

    Vapor Shark uses a PCB-mounted tactile switch with an actuating button...

    Original Style VS fire button:

    5kqc7b.jpg



    New Style:

    2dqn86h.jpg



    This is how Vapor Shark utilizes PCB tactile switches and separate buttons. (Authentic VS on Left. HCIGAR clone on Right).

    e9vq5w.jpg




    Obviously, the VS layout is different from the Hana-style.

    Has anyone successfully utilized PCB-mounted switches in a Hana-type build? Can it even be done, given the space limitations in the enclosure?

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Thanks!
     

    MattB101

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    Yes, it is liquid electrical tape insulating the soldered leads on the switches.

    And NO, I dont quite have 2 mods for each day of the week..... YET! Only 1 per day :tumble:

    Mike,
    I just looked at your picture/profile, I think we've met before. I'm not sure where, maybe the race?
    Matt Bode from Hampton, VA.
     

    MattB101

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    If you ever plan on using it above 25w, I'd go with the recommended gauge wires. 18g for the battery and 510 connector, 24g for the charger and buttons.

    Charger yes but, I thunk you can use just about anything for the switches. They're just logic switch and carry almost negligible current. I'm using the standard telephone colored wires for my build. Not sure what gauge but pretty sure it's smaller than 24 gauge.
     

    MattB101

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    28g minimum for switches.

    I think that's about what this stuff is. It the four conductor, beige telephone cable like the stuff they used to run from the NIC to the wall jacks back in the day. I had a spool of it in the workshop but, it's been around so long the label fell off long ago. Red, black, yellow and green. Solid core copper.
     
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    JimmyDB

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    I think that's about what this stuff is. It the four conductor, beige telephone cable like the stuff they used to run from the NIC to the wall jacks back in the day. I had a spool of it in the workshop but, it's been around so long the label fell off long ago. Red, black, yellow and green. Solid core copper.

    In that case,... what you have is likely 24AWG or possibly 22AWG.
     
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