Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions

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Duffloop

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dna40-cloupor-hana-wiring-guide.jpg


Is there a reason Not to solder 9 and 10 as one solder blob and 11 and 12 as one blob too?

or should they be kept separate cos of something in the circuitry? or makes no difference?
 
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drmarble

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Is there a reason Not to solder 9 and 10 as one solder blob and 11 and 12 as one blob too?

maybe something in the circuitry? or makes no difference?

Neatness.
Big solder blobs are more likely to be cold solder joints. Shorting those hole pairs won't cause problems buy you shouldn't try to do it.
 

Hammy75

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Next question...

Is there any real need for another layer of glass/plastic over the LED display?

apart from the remote chance of scratching it?

I didn't use it on mine. The FT enclosure had a small trench to help line up the screen so I just put it in and secured it with double sided outdoor mounting tape then pushed the board onto the back side. Worked very well. I also powered the screen up and checked it before I secured it. Neither of my clones had the extra plastic and neither screen has scratched. Time will tell if I made the right call or not.
 

Marc411

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Next question...

Is there any real need for another layer of glass/plastic over the LED display?

apart from the remote chance of scratching it?

If you are going to drip and worried about leaking then use the glass. I installed mine using clear silicon on the edges of the glass to keep any chance of liquid from hitting the display or it getting scratched.
 

Duffloop

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I didn't use it on mine. The FT enclosure had a small trench to help line up the screen so I just put it in and secured it with double sided outdoor mounting tape then pushed the board onto the back side. Worked very well. I also powered the screen up and checked it before I secured it. Neither of my clones had the extra plastic and neither screen has scratched. Time will tell if I made the right call or not.

funny that ain't it - they include a bit of plastic but there's a trench for the LED.
 

Duffloop

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If you are going to drip and worried about leaking then use the glass. I installed mine using clear silicon on the edges of the glass to keep any chance of liquid from hitting the display or it getting scratched.

good idea that re juice - but how does it stop it getting scratched from above?
 

Marc411

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Sorry duff I don't understand. When I built mine I used a sled for the chip and display. I mounted the glass like I said and lined up the display and then mounted the sled on the four corners in case it ever needed to be pulled. Now the display is protected from liquid overflow and scratching. Shapeways has some nice sleds that keep the display nice and straight too. I used small dabs of clear silicone to hold the display in place on the sled, again in case it needed to be removed.
 

Duffloop

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Sorry duff I don't understand. When I built mine I used a sled for the chip and display. I mounted the glass like I said and lined up the display and then mounted the sled on the four corners in case it ever needed to be pulled. Now the display is protected from liquid overflow and scratching. Shapeways has some nice sleds that keep the display nice and straight too. I used small dabs of clear silicone to hold the display in place on the sled, again in case it needed to be removed.

oh so you used the extra glass cover?
 
So has anyone come up with a brand/type of epoxy and hot glue they recommend is best for use on the C/K buttons and mounting the PCB using shapways sleds?

I am at the point with my build where I am almost ready to mount the items in my FT hana clone enclosure and I was hoping to get an idea of what others were using for this part.
 

Duffloop

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So has anyone come up with a brand/type of epoxy and hot glue they recommend is best for use on the C/K buttons and mounting the PCB using shapways sleds?

I am at the point with my build where I am almost ready to mount the items in my FT hana clone enclosure and I was hoping to get an idea of what others were using for this part.

for the small switches I use:

Toolsave - Gorilla Glue Europe 25ml Epoxy - Gorilla Glue 2 part Epoxy Glue Syringe Miscellaneous Hand Tools - Glues -

but you gotta be careful not to get it in the actual switch (tho you can get away with hotglue - but on one build I found the switch 'springing in' so wacked some superglue on the edge - not near the switch tho cos it can seep into the mechanism) that epoxy is solid - but you must resist the temptation to try the switches before it's set fully - which can be overnight.

for the shapeways I found hotglue is ok on the side edges
 
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tchavei

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since it is my first attempt at an electronic mod, i will be using hot glue only. I don't want a mod that is pretty but not functional :D
I'll use the epoxy on the buttons and charging board only.

With the failure rate we've been seeing, there is no way I'm glueing the chip itself... It has to be removable for warranty purposes.


I fried two chips, the first one by trying to solder it myself with very shaky hands and the second one by having the ground wire touch the power button once it was all soldered perfectly by someone else.
I can understand the first time situation but on the second time, how did you manage to make those wires touch after having the board installed?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.
 

MattB101

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This is what I used in building my last mod and what I am planning on using on everything but the chip on this one. Word of warning, make sure it's where you want it when you glue it down cause it's there permanently when you're done! Nice thing is it's got a little "filler" in it to fill any gaps, more like what it says, a gel.


Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 
I'll use the epoxy on the buttons and charging board only.

With the failure rate we've been seeing, there is no way I'm glueing the chip itself... It has to be removable for warranty purposes.



I can understand the first time situation but on the second time, how did you manage to make those wires touch after having the board installed?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.


I screwed on the ground and did not notice it touching the power button wire, was too excited because it was soldered properly and was working. Just stupid careless mistake. All it would have taken would have been to put some tape on the power button wires or the ground wire. I know a lot of people use the heat shrink but I didn't have any nor saw a way to put it on without burning everything since I soldered the chip first then the buttons. Even just pushing down the power button wire would have been enough lol. I can think of 20 things I could have/should have done to have it working right, just need to be more careful next time.
 
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