Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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Perhaps. But the EBAY listing specs the unit at 3.1" in length. The two reclaimed boxes I purchased from Elev8 are 3.5" (89mm).
Nabbing a couple of the smaller enclosures for $5/ea would be sweet...
ETA: I didn't realize that Cloupor manufactured two different sized, single 18650 HANA clones. The EBAY listing is shorter but wider with the same depth. Hmmm.
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Interesting. So I'm wondering if the reclaimed HANA clones I received from Elev8, which measure 3 1/2" x 1 7/8" x 1", are not actually from Cloupor.
It's good practice to put shrink wraps but all comes down on how much of a perfectionist you are and how carefully you work. It's way too easy to short the board after installing it just by overlooking small details like the board touching the metal part of one of the switches or worse.
That being said, I didn't use shrink wraps and I noticed how close the fire button positive lead was to the positive output on the 510 connector... If I hadn't pay attention, I would have fried the board instantly on first boot up.
Just do what I tell you and not what I do myself. You will probably never thank me for it but you also won't fry your board
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.
That being said, I didn't use shrink wraps and I noticed how close the fire button positive lead was to the positive output on the 510 connector... If I hadn't pay attention, I would have fried the board instantly on first boot up.
Just do what I tell you and not what I do myself. You will probably never thank me for it but you also won't fry your board
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
"Je suis Charlie" - R. I. P.
Other than a cradle? It's pretty much glue(epoxy) and go For the most past. I'm +1 for sanjosee's cradles. They made my life easier. I'll wait for shapeways to send me second order before I finish dna30 #2.
Hopefully no errors this time. The first one I had the 510 output off the board solder come loose. couldn't fix then board hole filled with solder so I bought another board... board came then wired everything up. Battery in, charger fried.. stupid me wired the charger backwards. New charger installed, realized I wired the up down buttons backwards....seriously...snip and fix. It's ugly as sin...
Build #2 WILL be clean. or i will probably loose the final bolt.
ETA: I put shrink tube on my splices And whatnot. it's cheap, simple, and avoids costly shorts.
Hopefully no errors this time. The first one I had the 510 output off the board solder come loose. couldn't fix then board hole filled with solder so I bought another board... board came then wired everything up. Battery in, charger fried.. stupid me wired the charger backwards. New charger installed, realized I wired the up down buttons backwards....seriously...snip and fix. It's ugly as sin...
Build #2 WILL be clean. or i will probably loose the final bolt.
ETA: I put shrink tube on my splices And whatnot. it's cheap, simple, and avoids costly shorts.
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Other than a cradle? It's pretty much glue(epoxy) and go For the most past. I'm +1 for sanjosee's cradles. They made my life easier. I'll wait for shapeways to send me second order before I finish dna30 #2.
Hopefully no errors this time. The first one I had the 510 output off the board solder come loose. couldn't fix then board hole filled with solder so I bought another board... board came then wired everything up. Battery in, charger fried.. stupid me wired the charger backwards. New charger installed, realized I wired the up down buttons backwards....seriously...snip and fix. It's ugly as sin...
Build #2 WILL be clean. or i will probably loose the final bolt.
When a board hole fills with solder all you need is some solder wick. It works great. Just hold it touching the hole and press the soldering iron tip against the other side. The solder melts and is sucked up into the braid. The hole is clean and nicely tinned, ready for another wire.
Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length: Solder Wick: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
No hobbyist should be without it.
That's what I use as well. I've got solder wick somewhere, I think.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
No! You also need sobriety, patience, a supporting family and strong religion. With all those things you can make solder wick work. If you lack any of them, I recommend what I use, which is a solder iron and an air compressor...heat, melt, blast with air.
That works too but, a solder sucker gives you more control and you haven't lived until you a get a tiny ball of hot lead in your eye or ear for that matter. Ear was mine. Kinda sizzled until it cooled off. Didn't go all the way in just kinda sat next to the entrance to the canal.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Well... I really screwd the pooch. I soldered the board wrong. I fed the wires in through the bottom and soldered on top of the board... I'll be getting that desolder braid and start over tomorrow after work... Good news is that I wired it right and it turned on and was able to vape it... However, In trying to get the board fitted into the box, I must have messed something up because it just says check atomizer. Only thing I did was unsoldered one of my switch cables. Would that do it? I'll play with it tomorrow and keep u updated...
I have a solder sucker But don't use it, I like the solder wick it can easily remove solder from the board IMO
The check atomizer message usually indicates a problem with either the output wire to the 510 or the gnd that goes to the case. probably a loose connection or bad solder connection on either of those 2 wires. I would not believe that the switch wires would have anything to do with the check atomizer message although with 28 years of debugging various machines nothing suprises me much anymore.
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