Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
- Thread starter HOPS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Anybody have anything to report on using this cradle DNA40 Cradle v2 - moresalt edition in the FT enclosure?
I ordered this one https://www.shapeways.com/product/YWJLNJYJW/dna40-adjustable-combo-cradle?li=aeTabs
But it will be weeks before I will have any feedback
But it will be weeks before I will have any feedback
I've used it and it works great. No modifications necessary. I ran the wires for the up/down switches and the the bat+ wire underneath the dna with no problems. I don't think it has the changes for the big screen DNA. I didn't have to use anything to fix the placement of the cradle in the enclosure since I cut the wires to the exact length and it sits perfectly.
The only problem is that the DNA40 still fails with ni200 even though this was an RMA replacement. I doubt that I'll RMA this one though since it is so perfect and it works great with kanthal.
The only problem is that the DNA40 still fails with ni200 even though this was an RMA replacement. I doubt that I'll RMA this one though since it is so perfect and it works great with kanthal.
Last edited:
How is the hold on the charging board? from the pictures the thin legs that hold the charging board look like they mite not be to solid?
If you have a chance, would be great if you could upload a pic of the cradle installed in the enclosure. Thanks.
The legs hold the board just fine and I might have even been a little rough with it at times. You know what a pain it is to cut wires to a length and solder either on that board (bat-, charger, etc) when its sits in that enclosure? PITA Oh, note to larktdl, solder the wires for the switches before you put it into the cradle. I routed them so that they exit the back side of the board.
Pics? I posted a picture of a FT enclosure with a DNA30 with a cradle earlier in this thread...I'll see if I can find it.
Edit: its post #516. The only difference is the bat+ wire is underneath the board, its a DNA40, so the wires are in a different place, oh and its a red enclosure.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...osure-looking-tips-tricks-suggestions-52.html
Last edited:
@sanjosse
I measured my FT mini box (the one with 72mm height, NOT the one that is sold without any components which is only 68mm high) and the compartment for the chip allows to position the chip horizontally i.e. it fits. I did position it at an angle because I needed clearance from the lower push buttons and since I stuffed a few wires between the chip and the LCD, there wasn't much height left. The chip and lcd alone will fit strait into the compartment and clear the buttons. I have no idea if it would be possible to fit them with one of your cradles. However, just for research purposes, here are the measurements of the chip compartment: height = 61mm, width = 19,5mm (the chip fits and has some side clearance with the tabs removed), depth = 18mm.
Not sure a cradle is possible because of the buttons. they start less than 10mm from the bottom (I would say 8mm).
Regards
Tony
I measured my FT mini box (the one with 72mm height, NOT the one that is sold without any components which is only 68mm high) and the compartment for the chip allows to position the chip horizontally i.e. it fits. I did position it at an angle because I needed clearance from the lower push buttons and since I stuffed a few wires between the chip and the LCD, there wasn't much height left. The chip and lcd alone will fit strait into the compartment and clear the buttons. I have no idea if it would be possible to fit them with one of your cradles. However, just for research purposes, here are the measurements of the chip compartment: height = 61mm, width = 19,5mm (the chip fits and has some side clearance with the tabs removed), depth = 18mm.
Not sure a cradle is possible because of the buttons. they start less than 10mm from the bottom (I would say 8mm).
Regards
Tony
I've been getting this message lately. After debugging I discovered my varitube 510 is not getting good ground contact With the case. Even though i drilled and tapped it. I did pit a tiny amount of loctite at the top of the threads on the 510. Could it be the mouse in my shoe?
Last edited:
I expect the loctite is insulating the connection slightly. Grounds really need to be perfect for most electronics to work well.
If it is threadlock loctite like 243 then yes, it's an insulator... 
The trick is to put a little threadlock not on the bottom threads (first to go in) but on the top threads (last to go in) so that the loctite stays in the upper threads only. Now however it's too late. You need to remove the connector and clean the threads carefully (check on loctite page what removes threadlock the best)
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Ps: half a drop is sufficient usually. More and it will seep through the threads. It's very liquid.
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
The trick is to put a little threadlock not on the bottom threads (first to go in) but on the top threads (last to go in) so that the loctite stays in the upper threads only. Now however it's too late. You need to remove the connector and clean the threads carefully (check on loctite page what removes threadlock the best)
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Ps: half a drop is sufficient usually. More and it will seep through the threads. It's very liquid.
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
If it is threadlock loctite like 243 then yes, it's an insulator...
The trick is to put a little threadlock not on the bottom threads (first to go in) but on the top threads (last to go in) so that the loctite stays in the upper threads only. Now however it's too late. You need to remove the connector and clean the threads carefully (check on loctite page what removes threadlock the best)
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Ps: half a drop is sufficient usually. More and it will seep through the threads. It's very liquid.
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
I only put it on the top threads after I screwed it in a ways. Maybe I put to much on. Welp, back to the ol drawing board. Thanks!
Np. I used threadlock extensively with rc helicopters and insulation was always one of the problems especially with carbon based frames (static build up). You will solve it
BTW, to make you feel better... One of my friends built a heli a few years back and after building the swash plate (the thing that controls the blade and paddle angles), decided to lube the internals and the main mast /spindle with a 'blue liquid' he found in the box... Only the next day when he found the swash plate and all attached components literally soldered to the main shaft, he realized he had 'lubed' everything with threadlocker LOLLLL.
anyway, it took him 6 hours but he managed to clean everything with some heat (it liquidfies threadlock) so one thread like yours shouldn't be a problem
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
BTW, to make you feel better... One of my friends built a heli a few years back and after building the swash plate (the thing that controls the blade and paddle angles), decided to lube the internals and the main mast /spindle with a 'blue liquid' he found in the box... Only the next day when he found the swash plate and all attached components literally soldered to the main shaft, he realized he had 'lubed' everything with threadlocker LOLLLL.
anyway, it took him 6 hours but he managed to clean everything with some heat (it liquidfies threadlock) so one thread like yours shouldn't be a problem
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
I never found the need to use thread locker. My 510's seem to hold real well with out it
Mine too but I wouldn't be surprised if thread lock would be needed in some setups as the act of unscrewing an atty could potentially make the connector start unscrewing too
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Mike helped me with my first one and on that one and the subsequent ones I drilled the hole a tad undersized, so the finished product was very snug.
Sometimes you can't. For example, the stock hole in a FT clone is 8.5mm. If you use a OCD connector like I did (9mm x 0.75), rules of thumb say that you should have a 8.25mm hole so 8.5mm is too big to begin with. In my case, the thread came out snug afterall but it could have not been so.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Well, I got my 3 black "DNA 30 Enclosures" from Elev8vape today. It took 10 days from the order date.
I wasn't expecting them to work perfectly. Good thing too.
One lit up, said "Locked Click 5 Times" so I did and it fired my Naut mini at 14 watts just fine. Then the screen went black. It still works though, just no display.
The other two display the "Check Atomizer" message so they won't fire at all.
I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with them. I may keep the one that actually works.
I see Fasttech has the Hana 30 watt chips for $20.38 but not sure it's worth the risk of getting a bad one.
They also have a 20 watt for $14.21.
I wasn't expecting them to work perfectly. Good thing too.
One lit up, said "Locked Click 5 Times" so I did and it fired my Naut mini at 14 watts just fine. Then the screen went black. It still works though, just no display.
The other two display the "Check Atomizer" message so they won't fire at all.
I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with them. I may keep the one that actually works.
I see Fasttech has the Hana 30 watt chips for $20.38 but not sure it's worth the risk of getting a bad one.
They also have a 20 watt for $14.21.
- Status
Similar threads
