Here you go - 510 connection that was included;
I was lucky enough to have a Dremel sanding drum that was the correct diameter for the atty hole so I took off all the anodizing - this also allowed me to get the 510 in far enough to get a foot hold so I could tap it in.
I actually started off using the top off an 18650 box to protect the 510 as I tapped it, the trick is to get it in straight at the beginning or you'll go nowhere. The 18650 case broke and I continued with the piece of MDF as protection, once it was in I noticed atties weren't sitting straight so I used an old dripper to level it - screwed the atty in and hit it until it sat properly.
I did scratch around the drip well doing all this but I'm not too bothered.
The insulator is easy enough to get in if you drop it into the hole and then screw an atty in on top of it -gets it in perfectly.
The positive pole is going in after I insert the 20 gauge I'm using, through the hole and soldering away from the insulator and 510. Once I've done this I've found that you can get the positive pole in the insulator by putting the adjustable screw in it - using a little piece of clear plastic to protect it, then hammering it in a couple of mm or below where the top thread is.
You can then screw an atty in on top if it - this will push it all the way down in to the insulator.
Finally, the tactile's included are definitely not real C&K - they're not half as 'clicky' as the genuine ones. The real ones are very reliable, wouldn't bother with the FT tacts - use real ones if you can get 'em.
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will order a few boxes today this should be fun. 
