Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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So I havent been a part of this conversation. But I saw where a few people were talking about ordering the taps for the FD connectors. I too am working on one of the FT boxes just got it in the mail today. So I ran down to my local ACE hardware and low and behold there was a 10mm X 1 tap right there on the shelf. So I brought it home and tapped it with a pair of vice grips and I didnt even drill it out. I thought I had a bit that would at least come close, but I was wrong. I looked at it, and the connector, and thought you know that hole isn't that much smaller than the connector. So I just tapped it without drilling the 9 or 9.5 hole or what ever they recommend. It's aluminum after all how hard can it be? Any way, it worked great, the connector sits flush. Fits tight, and the threads are silky smooth. A person ought to do things right but in this case it turned out great.
Epoxy is always the best. It's highly heat resisting and it's a great electrical insulator. The only difficulty is the application. Now there are many options, I found for gluing type of purposes, traditional 5 minute dry and 24 hour curing works the best. If you need the shape for "cushioning effect" or to rebuild material for a miss-drilled holes, epoxy putty works the best. If you need injection type due to access constraints, you can buy the "flow mix" type where there is a mixing chamber where the two parts comes together, as the the two parts component travel through the mixing chamber to the tip.
I wish i seemed this video before I started my project. I ended up drilling a bigger hole and solder the ground on the fatdday 510 connector and epoxy the thing in place. It certain is a lot easier to make the thread, and creating thread on aluminum with a hand tap is a breeze.
Here you go - 510 connection that was included;
Finally, the tactile's included are definitely not real C&K - they're not half as 'clicky' as the genuine ones. The real ones are very reliable, wouldn't bother with the FT tacts - use real ones if you can get 'em.
K&C KSJ switch comes with different force requirement for actualization,it could be anywhere from 1.5N to 4.7 N (see C&K documentation). The one from Fasttech are most likely the lower force requirement ones. My mistake was using a different one for + and the fasttech one for -. Mine required more force which make a different click when I hit + versus hitting the - button. It's not a big deal but it sure is annoying.
You're probably right, my theory is that the tacts are Chinese knock-offs as I can't see a Chinese company importing and buying the real versions from Digikey or from France - where they're made.
I've also heard that there have been quite a lot of failures of the buttons on the Hotcig/Clouper Hana clones, the buttons that Hana use are made by C&K - they're bloody good tactiles that never fail.
The button used in the Provari is C&K too, this basically means it's bullet proof.
Understood....I bought my from Digitkey for my other built. Now that I have them side by side, I will report back over time to see if the - fails... Thanks for the clarification.
Here are mine built. It's not pretty and very disorganized but it is a working MOD. During testing today, my firing button failed..it was due to my own error. Fixed it tonight and it's up and running again. Here are some picture. The last one has my other built for a size comparison. After one day of using, I like the FT box, but I like mine build on a hammond box as well. Considering I used a Hammond ABS box, the FT will probably last longer over time. Happy Vaping !!
Does any one know the screw size and thread for the box cap for the FT Hana box ? These screws are quite flimsy; I have a real concern that the phillips head will eventually wear out.
I wish I was as good at this as you guys. Ha ha. I finally got everything wired after using about half a roll of desoldering wire. Lol. It actually works. I was shocked! I won't even go into the problems I had with the ground. It was a nightmare! Now I'm trying to mount it. Got the screen in pretty good with hot glue. I'm trying to use jb weld to secure the board and charger but it is so runny. Any tips?
Got all my parts last week. Now i need some tinker time.
I have a ft hana box (no logo! Yay!).
Fat Daddy 510
Clone cana30 chip
Mamu chip cradle
Monday is a trip to the local Fastenal for a m10x1.0 tap and I should be good to go for assembly.
Still mulling my choices for which epoxy to use to mount the USB chip to the case.
Looking forward to some tinkering!
I have a ft hana box (no logo! Yay!).
Fat Daddy 510
Clone cana30 chip
Mamu chip cradle
Monday is a trip to the local Fastenal for a m10x1.0 tap and I should be good to go for assembly.
Still mulling my choices for which epoxy to use to mount the USB chip to the case.
Looking forward to some tinkering!
Mines Done 
I wanted it to look a little different so I used the Shapeways Bezels and chip holder by mamu.
I only used epoxy on the tactile switches the bezels and 2 tinny drops on the charging board
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I wanted it to look a little different so I used the Shapeways Bezels and chip holder by mamu.
I only used epoxy on the tactile switches the bezels and 2 tinny drops on the charging board
I used Putty Epoxy on mine. I really like the stuff after using it a few times. It hardens like plaster/ceramic and allows you to "even" out and "shape" your glue.
Good luck on the built !
Mines Done
I wanted it to look a little different so I used the Shapeways Bezels and chip holder by mamu.
I only used epoxy on the tactile switches the bezels and 2 tinny drops on the charging board
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Looks good, nice and clean wiring job on there as well.
Whelp...
Kinda had a fail on my first attempt at assembling my box.
Broke one of the super cheap tactile switches on assembly (while inserting my Mamu chip cradle/board assembly).
Mouser to the rescue! new C&K switches on the way. Minor pause in tinkering ensues.
Kinda had a fail on my first attempt at assembling my box.
Broke one of the super cheap tactile switches on assembly (while inserting my Mamu chip cradle/board assembly).
Mouser to the rescue! new C&K switches on the way. Minor pause in tinkering ensues.
Ok!
Got home from work today to find my C&K switches from Mouser showed up! Yay!
Finished my "kindha" FT Hana clone.
Re-work is not the way to go with the clone board. I had to rethink unsoldering everything and starting over. The Clone board is very fragile and will not stand up to de-soldering well.
So my final result is not nearly as neat inside as I wanted it but it does function well. Perfect actually.
Here is the rather ugly inside:
The Fat Daddy 510 works wonderful. This was a great addition IMHO:
The display got a little crooked in the Mamu chip cradle but not real far off. I epoxied the chip to the cradle but took it apart to do the broken switch replacement before I realized that the board would not stand up to de-soldering everything.
Learning process complete...
Now I want to build another just because!
Got home from work today to find my C&K switches from Mouser showed up! Yay!
Finished my "kindha" FT Hana clone.
Re-work is not the way to go with the clone board. I had to rethink unsoldering everything and starting over. The Clone board is very fragile and will not stand up to de-soldering well.
So my final result is not nearly as neat inside as I wanted it but it does function well. Perfect actually.
Here is the rather ugly inside:
The Fat Daddy 510 works wonderful. This was a great addition IMHO:
The display got a little crooked in the Mamu chip cradle but not real far off. I epoxied the chip to the cradle but took it apart to do the broken switch replacement before I realized that the board would not stand up to de-soldering everything.
Learning process complete...
Now I want to build another just because!
I hear that LOL There is nothing like Vaping your own home made box
Nice job by the way as long as it works a little character don't hurt
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