The copper threads are going to last about two minutes on those but then I'd replace the chip and use a Fatdaddy for the 510 anyway.
Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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according to Evolv less than 5 per 100 sold? I would believe it if there haven't been people with multiple boards failing. Some were as high as 5 out of 5 or 3 out of 4. All bought at different times. Heck, are you telling me I'm in the 5% of users that, not only had 1 issue but could reproduce ALL of them on a single board? I had the stuck down issue, the garbled issue, the battery meter jumping up and down issue, the OFF from C mode to 40W issue, you name the issue, I had it LOL
That's still a helluva lot of failures. Some people just have bad luck, I guess.
Obviously, that's why I knew what I was into when I ordered a original DNA40. I just hoped I would be part of the supposed 95% issue free rate
It really sucks that your country's customs is so intrusive. Does it help if the package comes from a private party? I know I offered before but if you need someone in the US, let me know. My offer still stands.
Oh you test a clone dna 40 to say that? Great. Tell me more about your first impressions
Nah, I don't want to waste my money
You crazy Europeans and your Celsius
Tell me about it
It helps (got some rayon in 4 days from the US through a kind ECF member) and I appreciate the offer but I only would take it as a last desperate resort. I usually manage to source stuff out from the EU or China (which they mostly don't control). I rather pay a little more and don't bother my friends. Resourcing to you or someone in the US would mean I can't actually get the product here (like rayon)... Well now you can but not back then
Err... Most of the world uses Celsius and drives on the left side of the road. You guys are one of the few using fahrenheit. At least you got the driving correct
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that
I think the metal you see in the clone is an alloy of some sort. I will know when I get it. I have two of the flask styled ones coming, to cut up and make a bottom feeder out of. The existing 510 will likely go away, but who knows.
For a ft dna 30 enclosure I though some of yall might like to see a 3d print I ran across after I started looking after reading this thread, I went ahead and placed an order thru Sculpteo after speaking to the creator.
'FT C-Hana assembly' | 3D Printing | Sculpteo
He also has it on Shapeways but it sounds like their QC went down hill
https://www.shapeways.com/product/UTEZCDUVJ/hana-kit-assembly?optionId=55099088&li=cart
He had mentioned that once he picks up a dna40 with the large display he will update the file geometry
'FT C-Hana assembly' | 3D Printing | Sculpteo
He also has it on Shapeways but it sounds like their QC went down hill
https://www.shapeways.com/product/UTEZCDUVJ/hana-kit-assembly?optionId=55099088&li=cart
He had mentioned that once he picks up a dna40 with the large display he will update the file geometry
I should have mentioned that he has some build pics on his FB page that is linked on Sculpteo,
Just finished making a DNA 40 mod using a friends dead Hana clone, used the Fatdaddy V4 low profile - it looks and works really well, much better than the Varitube low profile in my opinion.
I also used the M10 drill bit/tap and die combo which also came from Fatdaddy, saved an awful lot of hassle.
I also used the M10 drill bit/tap and die combo which also came from Fatdaddy, saved an awful lot of hassle.
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Need some help guys
Built me a dna 40 with varitube 510, and it was working great but this morning I'm vaping and the ohms are all over the place anywhere from .5 to .7. With kanthal and nickel, and I know it's not my attys as I have tested them on a separate device.
I can see the ohms steadily decrease as I fire the button and its settles on something are not even close to the right amount.
510 seems fine. Ground is nice and tight and snug. I'm literally stumped. I can't really see chip and the solder points are on the other side, I don't see how it could be the chip, wouldn't it have done it to begin with?
Or do you think faulty chip? Help me lol I'm so lost..
Built me a dna 40 with varitube 510, and it was working great but this morning I'm vaping and the ohms are all over the place anywhere from .5 to .7. With kanthal and nickel, and I know it's not my attys as I have tested them on a separate device.
I can see the ohms steadily decrease as I fire the button and its settles on something are not even close to the right amount.
510 seems fine. Ground is nice and tight and snug. I'm literally stumped. I can't really see chip and the solder points are on the other side, I don't see how it could be the chip, wouldn't it have done it to begin with?
Or do you think faulty chip? Help me lol I'm so lost..
Sounds really strange. Most likely it's a connectivity problem either at the 510 pin, ground ear, atty post hole or a bad solder point.
Is that 0.5 for nickel?
Maybe try a multi meter to check resistance at different connections?
I pulled the 510 and its soldered nice and tight. Ground to the case is nice and tight too, grinder the case for better connection also. Not the attys as I've tested on different devices. And yes that is for NICKEL crazy right?? Was working fine a few days ago.
Also should note that screen locked up before that, got all fuzzy would only go away when screen went to sleep. Haven't checked solder points as I'm too tired and don't feel like picking apart the glue tonight.
So confused
Also should note that screen locked up before that, got all fuzzy would only go away when screen went to sleep. Haven't checked solder points as I'm too tired and don't feel like picking apart the glue tonight.
So confused
Check the ground to the chip. I "THINK" it uses that for its calculation. Most of my issues went away when I grounded the chip independently of the battery and the 510.
If you go into apv forum here, there, everywhere, lots of po'd people complaining about the dna40. Its looking like the clone is working better than the OEM chip.
Noone is complaining about the clone and even multiple reports it regulates temp better than OEM Evolv.
Evolv may have a saboteur in their ranks lol..
BTW you have a bad chip from my many forum readings 'purchase research' in many different places.
Cigabuy has the barebones clone chip if anyone interested for 30 bucks.. They have a 50 watter TP too and it also works flawlessly no source on that chip yet..
Its a clone of dna board sizing and use of temp regulating but done different in programming/parts quoted from an engineer in fasttech forum..
IDK
I want that temp reg and are an evolv fan, but, so confusing not feeling like a sellout but, lol..
Noone is complaining about the clone and even multiple reports it regulates temp better than OEM Evolv.
Evolv may have a saboteur in their ranks lol..
BTW you have a bad chip from my many forum readings 'purchase research' in many different places.
Cigabuy has the barebones clone chip if anyone interested for 30 bucks.. They have a 50 watter TP too and it also works flawlessly no source on that chip yet..
Its a clone of dna board sizing and use of temp regulating but done different in programming/parts quoted from an engineer in fasttech forum..
IDK
I want that temp reg and are an evolv fan, but, so confusing not feeling like a sellout but, lol..
Unless your screen is garbled, they will tell you to check your ground connections, measure your resistance between battery negative pole and top of the 510 connector and also about your wire thickness.
Did you try to clean the 510 connector? On mine, after a day or two, condensation forms between the atty and the 510 connector, altering resistance. I wipe it down and it's OK again (cold mod and atty)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that
Did you try to clean the 510 connector? On mine, after a day or two, condensation forms between the atty and the 510 connector, altering resistance. I wipe it down and it's OK again (cold mod and atty)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that
Screen was fuzzy and locked up before this problem. They should replace it or I'll be ....... Anyways broke it all down resoldered 510 and ground and looked over everything... Looks fine. Come to the conclusion that's it the board.
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