Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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Like this?
I used one of the carto condom/drip tip covers cut down to seal the 510 from leaking inside the mod.
+ 1 on the 1550p - really nice size and it rests on the little finger
What button is that on the P box, could I have the part number if its available.
Thanks
It's kind of amazing how the right one looks definitely cleaner than the left one. Seems like an optical illusion because of the color of the wires and the case color!
If you want it to look clean - use black inside with dark wire
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I haven't had any problems with leaking into the 510 yet. Just that it's below the atty. It's really more of an aesthetic thing I guess but I regularly have to wipe around my dripper.
Maybe I should simply try grinding down to the airflow channels of the varitube. Who needs airflow from below anymore anyways? It's kind of like a historical artifact.
These 2 are my latest they both have DNA 40's and this cradle https://www.shapeways.com/product/YWJLNJYJW/dna40-adjustable-combo-cradle?optionId=43751815&li=ostatus
The charging board needed to be epoxied cause the cradle just didn't hold it in place very good. The chip is held nicely with the cradle but the charging board part needs some improving IMO.
Nice build using the cradles.....
I personally have very little or no use for air flow channels in my personal connectors anymore, agreed kind of archaic anymore.
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Both of those came out great! I wish mine looked that good. I use the older DNA sled and mine has been pretty solid.
Nice work!
My DNA40D test build...
Not a super clean build... but there isn't any hot glue and it's working. Basically everything except for the 510 and the DNA40 were salvaged parts from cheap mods that went bad... hence the non-silicone wire and terrible soldering on the buttons. I have since connected the USB charge board, although I generally don't use them.
For no good reason really...
0.06 Ohm center-fed Ni coil... a wee bit too low...
Ahhhh, that's the ticket. Hollow clapton type coil...
It's not very clean, but it was cobbled together and has been working great since I replaced that 0.06 ohm coil with something within the preferred range.
Not a super clean build... but there isn't any hot glue and it's working. Basically everything except for the 510 and the DNA40 were salvaged parts from cheap mods that went bad... hence the non-silicone wire and terrible soldering on the buttons. I have since connected the USB charge board, although I generally don't use them.
For no good reason really...
0.06 Ohm center-fed Ni coil... a wee bit too low...
Ahhhh, that's the ticket. Hollow clapton type coil...
It's not very clean, but it was cobbled together and has been working great since I replaced that 0.06 ohm coil with something within the preferred range.
Nice Jimmy
Is there a particular reason you mounted the board inverted?
The longer the wire between the 510 connector and the board, the more resistance you're adding. Maybe the length isn't a factor in this particular case but I would keep an eye on it.
And yes , it does look clean
PS: never seen an electronic component fail because of Hot Glue but I have seen a clean build (without any hot glue) with the worst soldering job I've witnessed in the last twenty years... Basically an accident waiting to happen.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Is there a particular reason you mounted the board inverted?
The longer the wire between the 510 connector and the board, the more resistance you're adding. Maybe the length isn't a factor in this particular case but I would keep an eye on it.
And yes , it does look clean
PS: never seen an electronic component fail because of Hot Glue but I have seen a clean build (without any hot glue) with the worst soldering job I've witnessed in the last twenty years... Basically an accident waiting to happen.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Nice Jimmy
Is there a particular reason you mounted the board inverted?
There is a reason for the inverted board... the reused DNA sled and the housing. The housing is one of the ones with the screw mount holes for the sled and the sled only fits in that orientation
I haven't had any resistance issues (yet) and I even have the 510 ground going through the housing to that common ground (yikes), and yet everything has been working very well. The 0.06 ohm coil actually worked too, but it's outside the specs from Evolv for TP... so it has been replaced.This was just a box made up to test the latest boards being sold directly a few weeks ago. While I'll probably leave this Frank'n'mod assembled, I'm sure not going to depend on it. It hasn't even left my office as of yet, lol.
I'll keep on eye out for resistance changes or such though, thanks!
EDIT: I agree that hot glue shouldn't ever be causing issues... but I didn't want any in there. And as far as the buttons etc, yeah, they look terrible... I didn't even resolder them, just snipped the wires and soldered that end to the DNA40.
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As long as it is consistent and you don't detect major changes during refinement, it should be ok. My latest build has been solid on 0.11 Ohms for 4 days now without any shift. During the first night, the board re-read the build at 0.12 but after 5 minutes vaping it put it back to 0.11 and hasn't moved since. Very happy right now.
Like I said before, your mod doesn't look bad at all and I wish some commercial companies would build as "bad" as you
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Like I said before, your mod doesn't look bad at all and I wish some commercial companies would build as "bad" as you
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Looks great KTM
Hat off you messed with the mini AGAIN
I've sworn I wouldn't touch it anytime soon
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
After using the large screen on the blue one, I needed it in the mini. I found from modding the blue enclosure that you don't need to make the window taller for the big screen, just longer. Now it's exactly what I want so it's never changing.
I used a dremel to lengthen it and then needle files to shape it.
Kewl. So you didn't do any height adjustments, only lengthened it? I guess for my large screen ones I will do the same. I have been putting it off; afraid to pull the trigger on grinding out the window.
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