Building a mini hana style box

[tchavei]

Hi all

Not sure this is the right section so if it's not, I would appreciate a mod to move this thread to where it should be.

I want to build a mini hana style box mod with a dna 40 board in it and powered by a replaceable 18650 (vtc4, vtc5 and torchy batteries).

After some studying, I came to the conclusion that my best bet would be to get a mini hana clone, strip it from its internals, put good metal switches, a good spring loaded 510 connector base and obviously the dna 40 chip and charging board.

The 18650 is going to be a problem so I checked several sources of clones and I decided to get one that is 72mm high and doesn't have the seam running across the top. This should give me a good working base.

Now my first problem:

I placed an order with FT for a black mini hana clone (estimated shipment in 10) but the truth is I'm not a big fan of anodized black. My sweat is rather acidic and from previous experiences, the only thing that stays the same after months of use is stainless steel... I manage to melt, chip, scratch or ruin anything anodized or painted after heavy use.

I've been surfing the net and I came up with this picture:

It looks like raw polished aluminium? That would be ideal for my sweaty hands.

Where can I get a case or mod like that? I'm still in time to cancel my order and get it from somewhere else.

If someone has a suggestion, I would appreciate it very much

Thx


Regards
Tony

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[ZeroOhm]

I think only the genuine hanas come in a brushed finish. Never seen a clone box that didn't come pre anodized.

 

[tchavei]

Oh crap... De anodize and polishing the thing would take hours and $250 for an aluminum box isn't that great either

Oh well. Thx for the heads up

I'll post my progress as it goes


Regards
Tony

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[v1k1ng1001]

You know that you can buy just the enclosures on FT? Also, I think they sell kits with the battery tray, etc.

I think the biggest problem is going to be fitting an upgraded 510 to any enclosure. It can be done if you have access to the right equipement.

 

[tchavei]

You know that you can buy just the enclosures on FT? Also, I think they sell kits with the battery tray, etc.

I think the biggest problem is going to be fitting an upgraded 510 to any enclosure. It can be done if you have access to the right equipement.

Hi. Thx for the suggestions.

Yes I know I can buy the enclosure but a) I'm interested in the mini hana so that only leaves one possible enclosure and no battery tray as I want to stick a 18650 in it, b) the enclosure FT sells is 68mm high which will make it near impossible to fit a 18650 and c) the enclosure has the seam at the top (running through the 510 recess and all).

The assembled mini hana clone is 72mm in height so the margin to work with is much better. By what I've seen so far, you only need to mill down one side (ground) to fit a 18650. At least thats what I hope.

About the OCD 510 connector base... I was thinking in two possibilities. 1) the threaded part is too short and in that case I'll have to tap the hole with a M9 0.75 threading bit which will be a bugger to get strait even with a drill press or 2) the threaded insert is long enough to go strait through the top wall an be fastened down with the stock nut.

I found a nice metal button yesterday but it seems to have a too long insert which might raise a problem since it might get too close to the ocd connector. I need to find something shorter.

Regards
Tony

 

[MrPlink]

Removing ano is easy. You can just soak it in various etching or acid solutions.
I even did once by using concentrated citrus cleaner from a dollar store, and this was on a piece of military equipment which I promise you is much better anodizing than whatever you will get on FT.

 

[tchavei]

Removing ano is easy. You can just soak it in various etching or acid solutions.
I even did once by using concentrated citrus cleaner from a dollar store, and this was on a piece of military equipment which I promise you is much better anodizing than whatever you will get on FT.

Thx for the idea

Not sure how I will proceed. The anodizing might be the only thing holding the mod together knowing from where its coming from. Back in my rc days, I had a friend that wanted to remove the anodizing from some chinese heli parts (they were pink) and he soaked the parts in sodium hydroxide... after 10 minutes there was nothing left besides mud lol... sodium hydroxide shouldn't even attack bare aluminium* so I have no idea what it was.

Anyway, I probably will leave it as is and when it becomes all scratched and flaked, I'll remove everything and remove the anodizing chemically, polish and seal it.

Great idea.

Thx

Regards
Tony

* Actually it does... didn't knew that.

 

[Kryp2nite26]

Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove anodizing from aluminum. Just spray it on and in a few minutes the anodizing will literally start "popping" off. Just remember to always use caution when working with chemicals.

 

[tchavei]

Thx. I will try it when the box wears off which shouldn't take long in my experience lol

On another note, FT must be following this thread because I ordered the mod yesterday morning and they expected shipping date was on 3rd December but 5 minutes ago I got a confirmation email that it had been shipped?!

I guess they decided to ship it before I changed my mind hehehe

Let's see how long it takes to get here.

Regards
Tony

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[herb]

The FT enclosures are excellent, very well made , it's $16.00 , you can't lose . Put a wrap on it if your worried about the finish , the wrap probably cost more than the entire box actually .

What they charge for wraps is outright theft.

 

[KTMRider]

I came to the same conclusion that the FT mini or FC mini (w/o battery) is the way to go for the enclosure. Yes, it's more expensive but you can't buy the box itself. The bare box FT sells is smaller (68mm tall). The FC version has the center divider milled to fit a 18490 battery. I'm not sure if this will be an issue with the one you just ordered but I'm gonna guess it isn't as others used the same w/o issue.

You might want to rethink stripping off the anodized layer. It makes the box non-conductive and is more corrosion resistant than bare aluminum.

Drill and tap for the 510 connector. Most aren't long enough to use a nut at the base (FDV Wood version is 15mm tall and VT is 12mm). The negative ground is thru the threads on Hana boxes.

eBay has wraps for under $8 shipped. You can also make your own if you're handy with an exact-o knife.

I know I posted elsewhere but I got 50 magnets from Amazon for $2 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0065O63BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm still waiting on a Hana clone from FC and I just ordered a VS rDNA 40 yesterday but I'm still tempted to make a DNA 40 out of a mini enclosure. Dammit Tiny, stop giving me more ways to spend money!!!

 

[tchavei]

The FT enclosures are excellent, very well made , it's $16.00 , you can't lose . Put a wrap on it if your worried about the finish , the wrap probably cost more than the entire box actually .

What they charge for wraps is outright theft.

Hi.

Yes they are cheap as chips but like I said, 68mm is too short to put a servicable 18650 battery in it. The assembled mod is 72mm which gives me more slack to work with.

I came to the same conclusion that the FT mini or FC mini (w/o battery) is the way to go for the enclosure. Yes, it's more expensive but you can't buy the box itself. The bare box FT sells is smaller (68mm tall). The FC version has the center divider milled to fit a 18490 battery. I'm not sure if this will be an issue with the one you just ordered but I'm gonna guess it isn't as others used the same w/o issue.

You might want to rethink stripping off the anodized layer. It makes the box non-conductive and is more corrosion resistant than bare aluminum.

Drill and tap for the 510 connector. Most aren't long enough to use a nut at the base (FDV Wood version is 15mm tall and VT is 12mm). The negative ground is thru the threads on Hana boxes.

eBay has wraps for under $8 shipped. You can also make your own if you're handy with an exact-o knife.

I know I posted elsewhere but I got 50 magnets from Amazon for $2 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0065O63BK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm still waiting on a Hana clone from FC and I just ordered a VS rDNA 40 yesterday but I'm still tempted to make a DNA 40 out of a mini enclosure. Dammit Tiny, stop giving me more ways to spend money!!!

We are on the same page I guess

What's the idea behind the magnets? To replace the two back screws with magnets and make an easy removable back door?

If I got that eight, it might be an interesting idea. I'm just not sure how sturdy the whole thing will be? I would hate if the back plate would start to shift on its own :S

About the ocd connector, I've read it's 19.5mm long. I don't know though if that includes the bottom copper thingy or not.

What worries me a little is if I have to tap it, will I get that thing straight? A crooked sitting 510 base would be horrible :S

Now that you mentioned the wrap... I think I have one?! Brb

Yep. I have one but I have no idea where it came from, for what mod it is intended nor why I got it?!

Lol, I'm getting senile

Regards
Tony

EDIT: it's for a mvp 2 which is rather odd because I don't have such a device... Heck, I don't even own a box mod yet. What was I thinking?


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[tchavei]

Found a tap guide especially for the ocd connector and hana boxes

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2853688/m9-x-0-75-mm-hana-tapered-tap-guide.html?materialId=25

However, I'm not paying $20 shipped for a piece of plastic guide... Jeez

Regards
Tony

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[KTMRider]

We are on the same page I guess

What's the idea behind the magnets? To replace the two back screws with magnets and make an easy removable back door?

If I got that eight, it might be an interesting idea. I'm just not sure how sturdy the whole thing will be? I would hate if the back plate would start to shift on its own :S

About the ocd connector, I've read it's 19.5mm long. I don't know though if that includes the bottom copper thingy or not.

What worries me a little is if I have to tap it, will I get that thing straight? A crooked sitting 510 base would be horrible :S

Now that you mentioned the wrap... I think I have one?! Brb


Yep. I have one but I have no idea where it came from, for what mod it is intended nor why I got it?!

Lol, I'm getting senile

Regards
Tony

EDIT: it's for a mvp 2 which is rather odd because I don't have such a device... Heck, I don't even own a box mod yet. What was I thinking?


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I was looking at Hana clones for months. Just too many issues that were holding me back from ordering one. Then I got the crazy idea of just modding them to what I want but there are so many versions of enclosures, both full size and mini, that I was holding off. I finally just ordered the full size so I wouldn't end up with a useless box I'd never use. Then I ordered a VS rDNA 40 yesterday so now it's just become a project of curiosity since I invested so much time researching it.

The magnets are for easy access to the battery w/o tools. I've seen some guys put stripped screws in the door to guide it into place w/o shifting. The magnets are really strong for being so small.

I've seen FDV and VT connectors installed in these boxes and they just clear the inside wall. It shouldn't be a problem. You'll need to drill out the hole to 3/8" for the VT connector and get a m10 x .5 tap for the threads. I bought a drill press last week so it'll be easy for me. Once you have a straight hole, you can't screw up the tap. I'd offer to do yours but int'l shipping might not be worth it.

I have a MVP2 that I'm in the process of replacing the 510 to a VT 510. I should get my tap this week so I can finish it. I put a VT 510 on an Istick and I LOVE the connector. I ordered a few more on Sat and it should be here today (was supposed to be yesterday but USPS sucks).

 

[tchavei]

I was looking at Hana clones for months. Just too many issues that were holding me back from ordering one. Then I got the crazy idea of just modding them to what I want but there are so many versions of enclosures, both full size and mini, that I was holding off. I finally just ordered the full size so I wouldn't end up with a useless box I'd never use. Then I ordered a VS rDNA 40 yesterday so now it's just become a project of curiosity since I invested so much time researching it.

The magnets are for easy access to the battery w/o tools. I've seen some guys put stripped screws in the door to guide it into place w/o shifting. The magnets are really strong for being so small.

I've seen FDV and VT connectors installed in these boxes and they just clear the inside wall. It shouldn't be a problem. You'll need to drill out the hole to 3/8" for the VT connector and get a m10 x .5 tap for the threads. I bought a drill press last week so it'll be easy for me. Once you have a straight hole, you can't screw up the tap. I'd offer to do yours but int'l shipping might not be worth it.

I have a MVP2 that I'm in the process of replacing the 510 to a VT 510. I should get my tap this week so I can finish it. I put a VT 510 on an Istick and I LOVE the connector. I ordered a few more on Sat and it should be here today (was supposed to be yesterday but USPS sucks).

Well, my plan is to get the mod, try it out for a few days to see if I even like "box" mods and if yes, order all the necessary hardware and do the conversion. I have a machine shop a few miles from my house, I'm pretty sure they can tap the top with the necessary M9 0.75 threading. It probably will be better than me doing it. I have a drill press but the precision isn't great so I hardly use it. I have another but its micro sized for RC purposes... impossible to use a M9 tap there.

Regards
Tony

 

[KTMRider]

Well, my plan is to get the mod, try it out for a few days to see if I even like "box" mods and if yes, order all the necessary hardware and do the conversion. I have a machine shop a few miles from my house, I'm pretty sure they can tap the top with the necessary M9 0.75 threading. It probably will be better than me doing it. I have a drill press but the precision isn't great so I hardly use it. I have another but its micro sized for RC purposes... impossible to use a M9 tap there.

Regards
Tony

It's like we're twins from across the pond. I picked up a MVP2 to see if I liked box mods and liked them much better than tube mods. It was a matter of finding one I liked. During my search, I came across the Istick and ordered one on impulse since it was so cheap and to give me a bit more time. I loved the small size of the Istick so I wanted to get a VS rDNA. By the time I decided I wanted the rDNA 40, I thought it was too late to pre-order so I called my local VS shop and reserved one. I also ordered the Hana clone while waiting. After a month of waiting, the VS shop still didn't get one and I found out some guys were ordering online and getting theirs within a week so I canceled my reservation and ordered one yesterday.

To swap the 510, press out the original 510. Then you use the drill press to make a hole. Use a 90° square to make sure the drill bit is perfectly perpendicular to the table (and top of the box mod). Every drill press has adjustments to calibrate this. Once the hole is drilled, you use a tap by hand to cut the threads.

 

[tchavei]

Almost twins... I like my erlprinz more than you do yours

Ok, now you got me... The stock 510 connector is press fitted? So I need to hammer that thing out? Oh God, I already can see the box deforming and bulging

Hmm so as long as the hole is strait I can tap by hand?

Sorry for the stupid question. The only tapping I ever did was for a glider landing wheel and I did that on my micro drill press using a m3 tap. The screws went in perfectly after that.

Yes I almost ordered a vs 40 myself. What put me off was that they included now the wireless charging thing which I don't want and the box is slightly larger... I love Nano/micro/mini things lol



Regards
Tony

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[KTMRider]

Almost twins... I like my erlprinz more than you do yours

Ok, now you got me... The stock 510 connector is press fitted? So I need to hammer that thing out? Oh God, I already can see the box deforming and bulging

Hmm so as long as the hole is strait I can tap by hand?

Sorry for the stupid question. The only tapping I ever did was for a glider landing wheel and I did that on my micro drill press using a m3 tap. The screws went in perfectly after that.

Yes I almost ordered a vs 40 myself. What put me off was that they included now the wireless charging thing which I don't want and the box is slightly larger... I love Nano/micro/mini things lol



Regards
Tony

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I'm puffing away on my Erlk and it's been good so far. None of the issues I had before that made me hate it .

The stock 510 is press fit into the case. It shouldn't be too hard to get it out w/o damaging the box. Either a large punch and hammer to tap it out while the box is secured onto a vise (wrapped in a towel) or a c-clamp with an opening at one end. Sounds more complicated than it is.

The tap can't wander once the hole is drilled.

The wireless charging only adds 3mm to the thickness. I LOVE wireless charging. I got a Nexus 7 last year and it had wireless charging built in so I decided to get a Qi charger to try it out. Loved it so I got a receiver for my S3 phone. I now have a LG G2 because it has built in wireless charging. Charging my vaping device wirelessly would be awesome! I have a Tylt Vu charger that keeps devices at 45° angle but I've had no issues charging with tanks on its side.

Get the VS rDNA 40. It can't be worse than my love/hate relationship with the Erlkonigin

 

[tchavei]

Thx for all the hints

Regarding the wireless charging, I can't see really the advantage besides not sticking a micro USB plug in the device, don't know.

I've read somewhere the hole on the ft box is 8.5mm. If it really is, it would be a perfect fit (or even slightly too large) since one should need a 8.3mm hole to tap a M9.

We'll see. Can't wait to get my hands on the mini. I hope I don't hate it lol



Regards
Tony

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[KTMRider]

Wireless charging is a good 1st or 2nd option to the usb port which can get damaged over time.

The FDV is m10 x 1 threading, the VT is m10 x .5 threading. You need to drill a 9mm hole for the FDV and 9.5mm for VT (finer threads). They suggest a 3/8" drill bit which is 9.525mm.