Burning Cartomisers? Dangerous?-510/Kr808/4081...etc filler type cartos

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Katya

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CES

optimistic cynic
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so...I've been stalking this thread pretty much forever. Even posted once or twice, but haven't had anything of substance to add. It occurred to me that I haven't said thank you. This thread has been incredibly helpful- so....

THANK YOU for taking the time and effort to test every carto under the sun, develop fixes, and post your findings.
 

zelda

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woot, woot again to the pv master and vet! all in one day

Yes what an acomplishment Katya! Congratulations. And I have noticed most of your posts are to help people out with their vaping concerns/problems. You take the time and patience to explain to them and I know you've helped many many new and old vapers both on this thread and the forum by your contributions.

Here's to you!:toast:
 

Neo

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Yes what an acomplishment Katya! Congratulations. And I have noticed most of your posts are to help people out with their vaping concerns/problems. You take the time and patience to explain to them and I know you've helped many many new and old vapers both on this thread and the forum by your contributions.

Here's to you!:toast:

I concur. She always finds time to help a newbie.
 

Katya

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At the Oscars?
images
 

br5495

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only tweety, lol

btw where has br been?

br has been building his latest Masterpiece, heheh.

One of the things I have noticed about cartomizers is that the ones with an easy draw seem to work better. I believe this is because they are getting more air to the atty. Some of the KR808's are an example. With that in mind, I designed and built one from a few C-E2 parts that has a draw just as easy as a KR808, if not more so. The result is a cartomizer that works better than any other device I have experienced.

MasterpieceII.jpg


The only parts that were used from a C-E2 are the 3Ω coil, wick, and part of the base fitting. Everything else is built from scratch. In order to get more air into it, the original battery post, air tube, and ceramic cup has been replaced with parts made from bronze. The center battery post and air tube are now made as a single piece, and a new cup was necessary to fit the larger tube.

The body and mouthpiece are machined from a solid cast acrylic rod. This material is harder than extruded acrylic and can be polished to look almost like clear glass. Everything you see inside is magnified and is not as large as it appears. The mouthpiece also seals the reservoir, so it is the only piece that is removed for filling it with juice.

This one wicks very well and will vape the tank dry while in a vertical position. However, the tank is not as deep as an XL, so it doesn't have as far to wick. Evidently, the additional air creates a somewhat cooler vape than previous versions, because it does not burn the taste of my juice at a higher voltage. Not even at 4.8 volts. I only use it at 3.1 volts or less though, because I do not want to get hooked on the additional nicotine of the excessive vapor at a higher voltage.

It holds 3ml of juice, and I burn the coil off each time the tank is emptied. Kayta, it may interest you to know that I have developed the BRRDB (br reverse dry burn) to the point where the entire procedure usually takes less than two minutes.
 

br5495

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Wow, BR, very nice, indeed.

And yes, I'm very much interested in learning more about the BRRBD. Pray tell.

Thanks Tweety.

The BRRBD that I have developed for the C-E2 is somewhat like the dry burn that I did with the MaxxFusion. I don't think the subscribers of this thread are using the C-E2 now, so I doubt if there is a need for the details.
 

br5495

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hey, br, there are some of us willing to risk life and limb to test the prototypes, lol

All my prototypes have something wrong with them, otherwise I wouldn't keep improving them, heheh. There are a couple things I don't like about this one and right now the next one is just a figment of my imagination.
 
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