Burning taste anything above 60watts

[xtwosm0kesx]

with a rda? i dont know -- our local "the dna40 can do no wrong" crew blamed it on my use in a dripper with nearly pure vg -- i did try cutting it with pg and got far fewer "temp protection" messages.

Yep, use RDA's nearly exclusively.

I supposed its entirely possible that running a max VG juice MAY require turning the temp up a bit, but that said, the few times i run other juices (usually ~50/50) i run the same temp setting as max VG juice.

I'm almost always around 440-450, but that may be high compared to most, as i use a veritas which naturally has a bit longer coil legs, which i'm sure slightly skews the temps needed higher.

I love my first batch DNA40, and have had very few issues with it, but i'm definitely not in the "Evolv can do no wrong" camp...lol

 

[jseah]

I'm wondering if there are any issues with the IPV4's temp control. I have an Atlantis 2 with a Vaporshark pre-made Atlantis coil with nickel wire and it worked great on my Vaporshark rDNA40 at a full 40 watts. I can hit a 8-10 second vape on it, the temp control kicks on, and I never get a burnt hit. I took the same tank, with the same juice, and the same coil, put it on the IPV4, switched the IPV4 to joules mode and set it at 50 joules, set the temp to 420 (the rDNA40 is set to 450), and took a hit. The first vape (about 3-4 seconds) was fine. The second vape I decided to take a longer hit and got a MASSIVE burnt hit. Tasted nothing but the nasty taste of burning cotton. Took it down to 40 joules and still got a burnt hit. It is like the temperature control is nonexistent with the IPV4.

I haven't had any issues with using temp control with the DNA40 chip, nor with the Yihi SX350 chip. The Yihi SX330J chip in the IPV4 is supposed to have temp control added, but while you can adjust temperature, etc., it appears to do absolutely nothing.

 

[Ryedan]

I'm wondering if there are any issues with the IPV4's temp control. I have an Atlantis 2 with a Vaporshark pre-made Atlantis coil with nickel wire and it worked great on my Vaporshark rDNA40 at a full 40 watts. I can hit a 8-10 second vape on it, the temp control kicks on, and I never get a burnt hit. I took the same tank, with the same juice, and the same coil, put it on the IPV4, switched the IPV4 to joules mode and set it at 50 joules, set the temp to 420 (the rDNA40 is set to 450), and took a hit. The first vape (about 3-4 seconds) was fine. The second vape I decided to take a longer hit and got a MASSIVE burnt hit. Tasted nothing but the nasty taste of burning cotton. Took it down to 40 joules and still got a burnt hit. It is like the temperature control is nonexistent with the IPV4.

I haven't had any issues with using temp control with the DNA40 chip, nor with the Yihi SX350 chip. The Yihi SX330J chip in the IPV4 is supposed to have temp control added, but while you can adjust temperature, etc., it appears to do absolutely nothing.

Joules control the amount of vapor you make. What happens when you reduce the temperature you've set?

 

[Cullin Kin]

Joules control the amount of vapor you make. What happens when you reduce the temperature you've set?

@Ryedan, I don't really understand the whole Joules setting. Watts are joules per second, so what exactly does a joules mode do? So if you set it at a certain number of joules, does that set an underlying wattage and estimate how long you will pull for to achieve that amount of energy? Like, 50J would be 25W for 2 seconds... I just don't really understand.

 

[jseah]

Joules control the amount of vapor you make. What happens when you reduce the temperature you've set?

I'm actually a bit scared to try. I had the temperature set to be 420 degrees, which is the same or lower than my other temp control mods (rDNA40 set to 450, VF clone set to 450, SX Mini set to 420). Right now it is set to 400 degrees, but I'm using the Atlantis 2 with the kanthal 0.3 ohm coil, so I'm not even bothering with using temp control on it. I did try again last night with a ST Mini with a nickel OCC, and the Atlantis 2 with the Atlantis nickel coil. And I turned it way down to 20 joules with the ST Mini and 30 joules with the Atlantis 2. Not getting a burnt hit, but I'm also limiting my vape to around 2-3 seconds and I'm not trying it at 50 joules. Not trying to get a 8 second hit like I tried yesterday.

That burnt hit was just not pleasant at all. You couldn't pay me to want to take another hit like that again.

 

[Ryedan]

@Ryedan, I don't really understand the whole Joules setting. Watts are joules per second, so what exactly does a joules mode do? So if you set it at a certain number of joules, does that set an underlying wattage and estimate how long you will pull for to achieve that amount of energy? Like, 50J would be 25W for 2 seconds... I just don't really understand.

I don't have a YiHi board so I've never done any digging around for more information than I've accumulated from reading a couple of threads about it and it wasn't much info

What I know is pretty much exactly what you said, that 1 joule will do a certain amount of work (heating juice in our case) and 1 joule per second = 1 watt. It doesn't make any sense to me to try to control joules as that has no time element in it and I'm pretty sure the mod doesn't shut off when the joules set have been delivered. If I have that wrong, someone please let me know.

When I wrote my post and said 'joules' I was thinking watts but the term joules was being used and I went with it. I do think YiHi means joules per second when they say joules otherwise it makes no sense to me. Again, if anyone understands this better please let me know

 

[Ryedan]

I'm actually a bit scared to try. I had the temperature set to be 420 degrees, which is the same or lower than my other temp control mods (rDNA40 set to 450, VF clone set to 450, SX Mini set to 420). Right now it is set to 400 degrees, but I'm using the Atlantis 2 with the kanthal 0.3 ohm coil, so I'm not even bothering with using temp control on it. I did try again last night with a ST Mini with a nickel OCC, and the Atlantis 2 with the Atlantis nickel coil. And I turned it way down to 20 joules with the ST Mini and 30 joules with the Atlantis 2. Not getting a burnt hit, but I'm also limiting my vape to around 2-3 seconds and I'm not trying it at 50 joules. Not trying to get a 8 second hit like I tried yesterday.

That burnt hit was just not pleasant at all. You couldn't pay me to want to take another hit like that again.

I hear ya on the burnt hits from hell. I used to vape Genisis attys and they do that sometimes when you get a short so I know what you mean.

What I'm thinking is that your temperature calibration may be off. You set at 420, but it may actually be higher than that. I don't know anything about the IPV4 so I have no idea if this is common with them. If you turn the temperature to say 250 F and hit the button without taking a drag and watch the temperature (I'm assuming it will read real time temp like the DNA40) the board should pull the power down almost immediately, you should see the temp hover around 250 (or what it thinks is 250) and you should get almost no heat from the atty because the power will be so low. My thought is once you know the TC works but you were getting burnt hits at 420, you can start working with it safely as long as the board and your setup are stable. If of course it's still giving you a whack of power this is probably not the problem, but you should see the power without having to take a drag.

I'm in the same sort of situation when I use titanium wire on a DNA40 which is of course calibrated for Ni. What I did the first time I tried Ti was put cotton in a coil, set 250 F and fire. I pulled the wick over slightly to check under the wire for scorching and there was none. I increased 20 deg at a time and repeated until I got a bit of scorching at 330. I now run those builds between 350-380 and though I have had a couple of dry hits I've never had a burnt hit.

One other thing you can do if you try vaping this until you have more confidence in the system is not take deep drags. If you would like to take say 6 second drags, start with a small primer puff to make sure there is nothing wrong from the beginning and then take three two second drags. Then go to two three second drags, you get the idea.

Hope some of this makes some sense. If you do try to get past this, I suggest go slow and maybe have another mod set up that's reliable that you can vape while you figure this one out.

 

[PeterJames]

lol 60 Watts? i thought 20 was over doing it

 

[jseah]

I hear ya on the burnt hits from hell. I used to vape Genisis attys and they do that sometimes when you get a short so I know what you mean.

What I'm thinking is that your temperature calibration may be off. You set at 420, but it may actually be higher than that. I don't know anything about the IPV4 so I have no idea if this is common with them. If you turn the temperature to say 250 F and hit the button without taking a drag and watch the temperature (I'm assuming it will read real time temp like the DNA40) the board should pull the power down almost immediately, you should see the temp hover around 250 (or what it thinks is 250) and you should get almost no heat from the atty because the power will be so low. My thought is once you know the TC works but you were getting burnt hits at 420, you can start working with it safely as long as the board and your setup are stable. If of course it's still giving you a whack of power this is probably not the problem, but you should see the power without having to take a drag.

I'm in the same sort of situation when I use titanium wire on a DNA40 which is of course calibrated for Ni. What I did the first time I tried Ti was put cotton in a coil, set 250 F and fire. I pulled the wick over slightly to check under the wire for scorching and there was none. I increased 20 deg at a time and repeated until I got a bit of scorching at 330. I now run those builds between 350-380 and though I have had a couple of dry hits I've never had a burnt hit.

One other thing you can do if you try vaping this until you have more confidence in the system is not take deep drags. If you would like to take say 6 second drags, start with a small primer puff to make sure there is nothing wrong from the beginning and then take three two second drags. Then go to two three second drags, you get the idea.

Hope some of this makes some sense. If you do try to get past this, I suggest go slow and maybe have another mod set up that's reliable that you can vape while you figure this one out.

So I just tried this and I think how the DNA40 and the SX350 chips reacts are different. On the DNA40 with a temp control coil, voltage doesn't show on the screen. And when the temp control kicks on, the wattage drops. On the SX350, voltage shows on the screen as well as joules. When the temp control kicks on, the joules doesn't change, but the voltage appearing on the screen fluctuates (it drops, goes back up, drops again as you continue pressing the fire button). If I have it set for 40 joules (compared to 40 watts on my rDNA40), the vaping experience is the same, although I have set the temp much, much lower (280 degrees versus 450 degrees). If I turn it up to 50 joules, it vapes much hotter, and I can hear and taste the vape starting to burn.

 

[Semiretired]

As long as you remember smoking, they find a way to get you back. Enjoy vaping and forget smoking.

Exactly the right answer...

 

[Ryedan]

So I just tried this and I think how the DNA40 and the SX350 chips reacts are different. On the DNA40 with a temp control coil, voltage doesn't show on the screen. And when the temp control kicks on, the wattage drops. On the SX350, voltage shows on the screen as well as joules. When the temp control kicks on, the joules doesn't change, but the voltage appearing on the screen fluctuates (it drops, goes back up, drops again as you continue pressing the fire button). If I have it set for 40 joules (compared to 40 watts on my rDNA40), the vaping experience is the same, although I have set the temp much, much lower (280 degrees versus 450 degrees). If I turn it up to 50 joules, it vapes much hotter, and I can hear and taste the vape starting to burn.

Very interesting jseah and glad you at least have it vaping with Ni now. With it set to 40 joules and 280 deg, does the TC kick in while you're vaping? If it doesn't you're still power limited and raising the power will make the coil run hotter. Try lowering the temperature until the TC starts activating when your vaping at 40 J and then increase the joules to 50 and try that again. If it was power limited at 40 J and 280, I think it should now vape at the lower temp setting about the same at any higher power level as it does at 40 J.

 

[TeaneckVaper]

I have been running the Atlantis v2 0.3ohm coil with 80/2015 and max vg juice chain vaping all the way at 60-70 watts on an ipv3 with not a single dry hit. Those coils wick so efficiently that there must be something else causing your experience of dry hits.

 

[TeaneckVaper]

Also wanted to let you know I

Also wanted to let you know the tank is fully capable to run max vg in it. I've only used max in mine. But I will say I don't really like the coils because they take a long time to" break in "in my opinion. But it's a quality tank for sure

You are completely correct and I can't follow what silliness people are dishing out here... Says the wattage right on the coil and as far as the juice mix, most of the new subtanks were designed for heavy vg and will flood with 50/50 or less vg... Shaking my head

 

[TeaneckVaper]

I'm wanting to get a RTA also but I'm not sure which one yet. I'm considering Goliath but I'm still researching

I have been switching off between and orchid v3 clone(amazing flavor) and the lemo drop both with builds around 0.4ohms and "pancake style" wicking... Both great but I too am interested in the goliath and the new lemo v2 as well

 

[TeaneckVaper]

I know of I'm new here but not new to vaping. If you have questions or comments it really would be helpful to mention more than just one variable ie 25 watts is to high... Too high on what device with what coil/specific build with what mix juice? One hit comments to don't help anyone get any more understanding or clarity. And if you don't know more of the specifics then possibly you don't know enough to comment at all

 

[Ohm Gnome]

I know of I'm new here but not new to vaping. If you have questions or comments it really would be helpful to mention more than just one variable ie 25 watts is to high... Too high on what device with what coil/specific build with what mix juice? One hit comments to don't help anyone get any more understanding or clarity. And if you don't know more of the specifics then possibly you don't know enough to comment at all

Finally someone I can relate to. I agree with everything you've said. I was never trying to be rude and I don't think you are either. It's just like I said if I don't know something I'm not going to comment like I do.

 

[CDinHD]

There would be your issue. I can't think of any reason to push that much power through a tank. Try vaping at 30w or less. You'll barely notice a flavor or cloud difference, and your batteries will last longer.

This tank with the .3 coil won't really fire that well unless I go above 30 watts.

 

[CDinHD]

Anytime, my friend. Check back and let us know what your findings are. I'm curious myself and it will help people in the future.

Ok thank you all again for all the help, I have been testing a fresh coil with 70/30 juice and I have come to the conclusion that wicking is most definitely the issue. I've even turned it up to 80 watts and the flavor is still there with no burn.

 

[Ohm Gnome]

I'm glad you got it working properly. I wound up trading my Atlantis 2 yesterday. It's a amazing tank for a cloud chaser. That's just not my vaping style. I do prefer sub ohming but the flavor is all I Chase . The friend I traded it to is pretty much a RDA guy but he saw this tank perform on a Jellyfish and loved it lol . It's all about personal preference

 

[CDinHD]

I'm wondering if there are any issues with the IPV4's temp control. I have an Atlantis 2 with a Vaporshark pre-made Atlantis coil with nickel wire and it worked great on my Vaporshark rDNA40 at a full 40 watts. I can hit a 8-10 second vape on it, the temp control kicks on, and I never get a burnt hit. I took the same tank, with the same juice, and the same coil, put it on the IPV4, switched the IPV4 to joules mode and set it at 50 joules, set the temp to 420 (the rDNA40 is set to 450), and took a hit. The first vape (about 3-4 seconds) was

I'm glad you got it working properly. I wound up trading my Atlantis 2 yesterday. It's a amazing tank for a cloud chaser. That's just not my vaping style. I do prefer sub ohming but the flavor is all I Chase . The friend I traded it to is pretty much a RDA guy but he saw this tank perform on a Jellyfish and loved it lol . It's all about personal preference

Yeah thanks man, I like the tank it has PLENTY of air flow and produces nice clouds. I'm waiting on the Maganus DVC to arrive