I just got an itaste vv/vw v3 with a kanger mini protank 2 (2.6 ohm). I've been told that with a 2.6 ohm I can go up to around 4.4 volts. I've been vaping at 3.8V and it's alright but I want more vapor. I'm using 50/50 juice. When I put it to 4.2V everything is fine but after 5-6 consecutive draws, I get the burnt marshmallow taste. Should I replace the protank head with the spare I have? Something I'm doing wrong? Thanks
- Status
Should I always be controlling wattage instead of voltage? I know it technically doesn't matter but is that the preferred method?
I'm just reading that 2.6 ohm clearomizers can handle 4.2v and when I do it, it tastes burnt. So I was just curious
I'm just reading that 2.6 ohm clearomizers can handle 4.2v and when I do it, it tastes burnt. So I was just curious
It really depends on the juice. Some do better at higher voltages than others. Just play around with the setting to find that 'sweet spot'.
IMHO VV/VW is all about what works best for you, a very personal and subjective experience. What works for someone else may not work for you. That said, I realize you are looking for some suggestions. So here goes.
Since you have a VW device, I would suggest using that feature to try and dial in your "sweet spot". Maybe start at 6w and slowly increase as previously suggested. VW is known as set and forget, once you find your preferred wattage, you may find that you seldom if ever change it. Nice to have a device that is smart enough to make adjustments for you in real time.
Remember, this really is all about you and your needs. Personally, I like 6.5w with 2.0 - 2.5 ohm coils and 70/30-60/40 juices. But that is just me and my needs.
Doesn't matter whether you use vw or vv if you are making adjustments to taste. If the juice and coil are burning, 90% of the time it's just too much power. All juices have a burn point, usually closer to 7 watts than say 9 watts, but you can only be sure by making small incremental adjustments and then tasting. Also, you could be vaping faster than your device can wick. This can result in a few good puffs, then suddenly, a burnt taste. Slow down. Let the wicking stay equal to or ahead of your vaping. This is a technique issue. So, slow down and adjustment to taste in small increments. Best of luck!
In my MVP V2 and a Mini PT-II with a 2.5ohm coil (2.7 actual) i always got a slight burnt taste occasionally with 50/50 juice even at 6.5watts. I had to pace my vaping or get a dry hit. My solution was 70PG/30VG and a 1.8ohm coil. (actual 2.0) according to the MVP. Vapes fine now at 3.7v or 6.5watt.
Flavorings of course will need some adjustment but IMO its the 50/50 more than anything. It doesn't wick well in the Mini PT-II.
Flavorings of course will need some adjustment but IMO its the 50/50 more than anything. It doesn't wick well in the Mini PT-II.
Last edited:
Sounds to me you aren't allowing enough time between vapes for the wicking material around/inside the coil to fully re saturate.
You should set the power at a level that prevents the burnt taste / burning the wicks or juice.
Some times when you burn a head it taints the flavor of the juice remaining in the tank, replacing the head without dumping the juice and rinsing the delivery device can result in the burnt taste returning quickly without burning the new head.
When using vv/vw power devices you can set one or the other not both independently at the same time.
I haven't had any luck with any version of the prostank, my least favorite delivery device.
You should set the power at a level that prevents the burnt taste / burning the wicks or juice.
Some times when you burn a head it taints the flavor of the juice remaining in the tank, replacing the head without dumping the juice and rinsing the delivery device can result in the burnt taste returning quickly without burning the new head.
When using vv/vw power devices you can set one or the other not both independently at the same time.
I haven't had any luck with any version of the prostank, my least favorite delivery device.
Wattage is controlled by Voltage. Voltage isn't necessarily controlled by Wattage, but You can't have one with out the other. Where there is Voltage, there is Wattage, Resistance, and Current. Wattage just calculates your voltage for you depending on the resistance of the coil. When you're using voltage controls you're manipulating the formula, Watts= Volts^squared / Resistance... Your chip is using an algorithm with the formula Volts= Square root(Watts X Resistance) to calculate the voltage for you.
If you're using different resistances, you might want to use VW, until you get familiar with the sweet spot of all your liquids on the different coils.
It sounds like you're having wicking issues. I can't use a lot of the flavors I love with anything but drip atomizers..and even still, they can gunk up badly. I got a friend an MVP the other day, and I recommended a voltage to move towards after starting from 3.3 Volts. He actually ended up staying on 3.3 Volts with a 2.1 dual coil iclear16(don't know if that's still the case). 3.3 Volts with 2.1 Ohms is 5.2 Watts, but since it was a dual coil, that heat is distributed 4 times as much as a single coil, equaling dramatically cooler and less noticeable vapor production. You don't have to be at the bottom, middle, or top of the scale. Find out what works for you.
If you're using different resistances, you might want to use VW, until you get familiar with the sweet spot of all your liquids on the different coils.
It sounds like you're having wicking issues. I can't use a lot of the flavors I love with anything but drip atomizers..and even still, they can gunk up badly. I got a friend an MVP the other day, and I recommended a voltage to move towards after starting from 3.3 Volts. He actually ended up staying on 3.3 Volts with a 2.1 dual coil iclear16(don't know if that's still the case). 3.3 Volts with 2.1 Ohms is 5.2 Watts, but since it was a dual coil, that heat is distributed 4 times as much as a single coil, equaling dramatically cooler and less noticeable vapor production. You don't have to be at the bottom, middle, or top of the scale. Find out what works for you.
I just tested my theory by chain vaping some of my low nic Mango 70PG/30VG (nearly half a tank) and it worked like a champ!! It wicks far better than the 50/50.
Last edited:
Ok, kind of surprised that no one else has said this yet. If you are using Kanger Protank heads and a 50/50 blend, you HAVE to remove at least one, if not both of the little wicks that are sitting on top of the coiled wick. Kanger uses 2 small flavor wicks that sit on top of the coiled wick. They work fine with 80/20 or 70/30 blends, but once you get to 50/50, you need to remove one of the flavor wicks to get the coil to wick properly.
Unscrew the atomizer head from the base, pull the silicone cap off, pull off the top tube (wiggle it off), and remove a wick. Your tank will wick like a DREAM after this. I use 50/50 blends exclusively and removing one flavor wick solves the issue for me. I vape at 8 watts no problem with Protank heads after removing a wick. Also, be sure to "prime" the wicks every once in a while with a few short primer puffs (don't push the button, just pull on the mouthpiece a few times.) Watch for the bubbles to come up, then vape away. I hope that this solves your issues!
Unscrew the atomizer head from the base, pull the silicone cap off, pull off the top tube (wiggle it off), and remove a wick. Your tank will wick like a DREAM after this. I use 50/50 blends exclusively and removing one flavor wick solves the issue for me. I vape at 8 watts no problem with Protank heads after removing a wick. Also, be sure to "prime" the wicks every once in a while with a few short primer puffs (don't push the button, just pull on the mouthpiece a few times.) Watch for the bubbles to come up, then vape away. I hope that this solves your issues!
Another suggestion along with this would be to maybe dry burn the coil followed up with a rinse. Sometimes it can be a maintenance issue as well. I usually rinse the coil for a minute under running water. Dry the wicks with a paper towel, blow into the coil from either side with a finger plugging the airflow from the opposite side, then proceed to dry burn the coil at 3.3 volts. Give the coil another rinse and let it air dry for a few hours. Pop the coil back into the tank and take a few pulls without it attached to the battery (as RubyRoo said previously) to make sure the wicks are fully saturated. If I get the same burnt taste, it's most likely time to get another coil or rebuild it.
My full sized ProTank -II works fine with 50/50 for me though. Granted i do not normally vape fast but its possible the extra volume/weight of juice helps a tiny bit. Personally i don't think it was a smart move on Kangers part to ship a Mini (which IMO is mostly intended for a small AP) with 2.5ohm coils. In my experience Kanger coils nearly always read .2ohm-.3ohm higher than advertised. That's why i get 1.8s and nearly everyone checks out at 2.0ohm. My 2.5ohm Kanger coils are always higher than advertised and im 99% sure they are genuine. I get the box and blister pack with all the correct packaging trademarks and labels.
Just seems kinda silly (to me) to market a product that will likely be used on smaller or non VV/VW devices with semi high impedance coils. At least the full sized PT ships with a 1.8ohm and a 2.5ohm coil quite often. I see them advertised that way very often.
BTW if they seem to airy, cover one of the holes in the darker colored eGo collar/base with a piece of tape. If that is not enough cover another hole. There are 3 holes total and i like mine MUCH better with one hole covered.
Just seems kinda silly (to me) to market a product that will likely be used on smaller or non VV/VW devices with semi high impedance coils. At least the full sized PT ships with a 1.8ohm and a 2.5ohm coil quite often. I see them advertised that way very often.
BTW if they seem to airy, cover one of the holes in the darker colored eGo collar/base with a piece of tape. If that is not enough cover another hole. There are 3 holes total and i like mine MUCH better with one hole covered.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
