As long as it is in thermal contact with juice, no. I've posted this here before, but I think it's relevant.
Hows about the coil surface temp below vapor pockets; that coil temp may exceed "E-Gas" temp..
Calling BS on dual coils!
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Hows about the coil surface temp below vapor pockets; that coil temp may exceed "E-Gas" temp..
The post right above yours pegged it.
While the overall resistance may be 1.3 ohm, each coil is 2.6ohms and will perform like a 2.6 ohm coil regarddless of anything else you may do. So two 2.6 ohm coils are going to be as crappy as one 2.6ohm coil... with the additional handicap of forcing the battery to try and drive two of em instead of one.
And hey, duh, he's right about not draining the batteries faster. When I checked mine before recharging the were almost always around 3.8V or 3.9V. I just hit the limit of what I could take in a cold, wet vape....
Did you mean VW, or did you misunderstand my post?
A 4Ω coil would be high for any mod, it would take 7V or so to fire it with the same power as a Kanger 2Ω. (Excatly how much power you need depends on wicking, but a Kanger head is a good enough benchmark. In a dripper you'd probably want more power, so maybe 4.5V in the 2Ω case and 9V for 4Ω.) There are few VW mods that can supply that sort of voltage. In fact most of them can't supply twice as much as their minimum -- their range is usually 3.3V to 6V. They therefore cannot drive both a single and a dual coil of the same specification. That makes comparisons difficult. Of course equal power comparisons are impossible on a mech mod.
Have you compared equal coils on a VW mod that is capable of driving them? Maybe one with stacked batteries?
I understood. VW automatically adjusts for differences. VV you do it on your own.
I liked between 1.8Ω and 2.2Ω with Protank/Vivi Nova. Variable couldn't fix it beyond that. With what I'm using now (gennies and RDA) I pretty much like 2Ω only (although I can go lower with the RDA's). Even 2.2Ω and I'm not liking it no matter what I do with the variable.
In a dual, 1.5Ω (a 3Ω coil) is not a great love even when I crank it up. However a 1Ω (my preferred 2Ω coils) is pretty good.
You don't double the voltage to drive a single and dual the same. You double the wattage, you can easily do that.
You are comparing a single 2Ω coil with a dual 2Ω coil. The dual coil will always put out more vapour, that stands to reason. You're feeding it with twice the power; that will also put out more vapour.
What I am talking about is a single 4Ω coil, or maybe a double coil in series if you want the wicking to remain constant. Feed it with twice the voltage: 2V = I 2R; the wattage is double, just as with the 2Ω dual. It will produce the same vapour.
Or more practically, a 0.7Ω dual can't be powered by a VW mod, but a 1.4Ω single can be. So long as they can be wicked efficiently and the mod can drive the same power through it, they will act the same.
What I am talking about is a single 4Ω coil, or maybe a double coil in series if you want the wicking to remain constant. Feed it with twice the voltage: 2V = I 2R; the wattage is double, just as with the 2Ω dual. It will produce the same vapour.
Or more practically, a 0.7Ω dual can't be powered by a VW mod, but a 1.4Ω single can be. So long as they can be wicked efficiently and the mod can drive the same power through it, they will act the same.
I'm comparing a single 2Ω coil to a dual 1Ω atty, or two 2Ω coils, or 4Ω worth of wire. The same wire, similar style of builds (different wicking). I am using a 1Ω dual right now on a VV.
Compared to your single 4Ω coil or series comparison you probably couldn't drive the 4Ω hard enough on the same VV I'm using two 2Ω coils on right now.
Plus instead of heating 2 coils from the center you'd be heating 1 coil from the center (I've never tried series to know how that would heat).
Try a 4Ω coil. I bet you won't get a good vape. I know I wouldn't like it whether or not the voltage could be doubled since I don't like 3Ω no matter what it's set to.
I do however like my 1Ω dual with two of the same type of 2Ω coils I like in everything else.
My four 2Ω RBA/RDA are 3.8v, 3.7v, 3.9v and 3.7v. About 6.8w.
My 1Ω dual is 4.9v or 24w (I've got it set up to feed is my guess for why I can have it that much higher than double the wattage).
A .7Ω can be powered by some VW's. A .8Ω should be able to be powered by an SVD, I know I've done .9Ω on mine.
Yeah, I don't spend my precious time with RDAs that can't be easily configured for dual coils.
One man's BS is another man's Vaping Valhalla.
The difference in taste is obvious (to me) on my Helios and my IGO-T. My dual-coil set ups range from 1.4 ohms to 0.8 ohms.
One man's BS is another man's Vaping Valhalla.
The difference in taste is obvious (to me) on my Helios and my IGO-T. My dual-coil set ups range from 1.4 ohms to 0.8 ohms.
I have a few feet of twisted 32GA (2 strand). I could twist the twisted 2 strand and have 4 strands total. I twisted the 32 2 strand clockwise would you twist two pieces of two strand counter clockwise?
Jeeze I hope you know what I'm a trying to say.
I have a question about coils in general. I've been reading here that lower resistant coils produce more vapor. I use a Protank 2 and 1300ohm Vision Spinner. The coils it came with were 1.8 & 2.0 but they couldn't stand up to dialing my Spinner up past about 3.7 and they burnt out. I like my Voltage up to at least 4 V & sometimes 4.3V but after burning many expensive coils over the past 11 months, my go to coils are at least 2.5V. I get great vapor production and taste- but am always open to more. Great clouds of vapor are half the fun of vaping. So did I just get bad coils and should I be able to use the 2.0 ohm coils at 4 V?
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Most production coils are very small diameter wire... high resistance, that heat up quickly. When you go beyond 3.7ish volts like you describe, they will burn. To get lower resistance coils that work like you're describing, you need a lower gauge (larger diameter) wire that will take longer to heat (or rather, more power) and cover more surface area. Basically, you need rebuildables for what you're describing.
Mad Scientist did some work on Temp / Time curve inside an atomizer.
He put a thermocouple inside a standard silica wick and coil assembly and put about 16 watts to the coil and recorded temps through the wick drying out. I don't know what the actual temps were, but he showed very nicely that the temperature stayed pretty stable until the coil dried up. I don't know if he did more work on this later. It would have been nice to do the experiment with more and less power and see how much temperature difference that makes. My bet is the coil never gets much hotter than phase change temperature. We all know it doesn't get hot enough to glow at all, though that's pretty hot.
When you say "burnt out" are you saying the juice tasted burnt or are you saying they quit working? Either way, the juice should not taste "burnt" using a 2ohm coil @ 4v. Some juices do not taste as good at higher volts but 2ohm coils are standard & 4v isn't that high. Therefore it's not normal for them to produce a burnt flavor with juices. Are you sure that what you're thinking is a "burnt taste" isn't a dry hit taste? You might have a wicking issue rather than an issue with the coil @ 4v.
And the coils should definitely not be burning out, as in quit working, at 4v. If they are then they were not good coils.
Yup, this is where it gets a bit tricky
. I know that dual identical coils, at the coils, will make twice the vapor with them both running compared to one running alone. Then all the other factors come into play and that's what complicates it.Hey, I'm not worried about it. What works works. It would be nice if someone could quantify it, but I think there needs to be testing done and without that we're not going to get anywhere. We don't even know how to test for vapor production other than by looking at the plume. Not exactly the most scientific process I've ever used
Myk, what wire gauge are you using for the 2 ohm coil and what gauge for the 3 ohm coil?
I saw that experiment and it was a good one. I think a stove eye would model an atty coil nicely while being much easier to measure coil surface temp. There are many experiments that would be great fun. I'll be glad to do it soon as I figure out how to get govt funding for the study.
Mechanical mods do not have variable voltage. They fire at battery voltage (4.2V with a fresh battery down to about 3.6V when the battery has been used for a while) and you change the power by changing the coil resistance. Here is a online Ohm's law calculator. Plug in the voltage (4 is good) and the resistance, click calculate and it will tel you the watts and amps.
With a Spinner battery you change the power using the voltage dial at the bottom. You can use that calculator to check what wattage you're vaping at. Using a lower resistance coil means you will probably use less voltage to arrive at the same power (watt) level you like, where you're not burning juice
The people using mechanical mods are stuck making a new coil if they want to change their power.
Thanks Mitey, your explanation cleared this up. I do save all my coils just in case I ever need them- I have at least 100 old coils already. Reading this thread is an education, someday we may have to rely on these skills. I really hope it remains an option. So far I think the ban countries are focused on just nicotine but it's senseless and only time will tell. As for me, I'll keep vaping even after the 2nd coming.
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Emus, is a stove 'eye' the electric heating element? I've never heard anyone talk about an eye on a stove before.
If so, the problem with it is you can't put it in water (or juice
). I have a electric water kettle that has a exposed heating element in it. I think that would be relatively easy to work with, you just wouldn't be able to easily change the wattage. I used to have access to a thermocouple and meter something like this. Unfortunately I don't any more. It had one thermocouple probe that was in a metal tube about 8 inches long that would have been perfect.
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Emus, is a stove 'eye' the electric heating element? I've never heard anyone talk about an eye on a stove before.
If so, the problem with it is you can't put it in water (or juice
That is too funny
I thought stove eye was the technical term. I have a feeling I'm not the youngest between us.The mating surface of element is likely close to 212F but I'm curious of the temp on bottom of element. Not that it would solve world hunger to find out.
Couldn't do it at home, but the pros (aka myth busters) could apply wick and liquid to stove element; possibly w/o killing themselves.
Assuming you have a non-regulated device, in this case a mechanical mod.
An increase in the number of coils used does not decrease battery life, that is all determined by resistance. If you have a 0.5 ohm dc setup (two 1 ohm coils) it will drain a battery at the same rate as a single 0.5 ohm coil. All adding more coils does is spread out the power you get from the battery firing on your X resistance atomizer.
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